Pauly S
Registered user
can anyone point me in the direction of blurb for settting the cam timing pls? ta muchly.
Feckin haynes manual is pants..
Feckin haynes manual is pants..
1200 05 cam timing
- Thread starter Pauly S
- Start date
About to send you a private message Paul, presently searching through my archives for you.......
Part 1:
The RepROM says for the Crank and Aux shaft timing:
"Adjusting crankshaft and auxiliary shaft to ignition TDC
Make sure that the crankshaft and countershaft are in the "firing TDC, right cylinder" position.
The locating pin on the timing-chain pinion of the crankshaft is pointing up and the tip of a tooth on the timing-chain pinion is down in line with the split line between the two halves of the crankcase.
The notch in the countershaft timing-chain sprocket is up in line with the split line between the two halves of the crankcase."
I believe that in this position, you then insert a locking tool into the crank from the rear face of the engine just above the gearbox oil filler.
For the camshaft timing, there's too much info to post on here, you really need the RepROM to show you the info.
The RepROM says for the Crank and Aux shaft timing:
"Adjusting crankshaft and auxiliary shaft to ignition TDC
Make sure that the crankshaft and countershaft are in the "firing TDC, right cylinder" position.
The locating pin on the timing-chain pinion of the crankshaft is pointing up and the tip of a tooth on the timing-chain pinion is down in line with the split line between the two halves of the crankcase.
The notch in the countershaft timing-chain sprocket is up in line with the split line between the two halves of the crankcase."
I believe that in this position, you then insert a locking tool into the crank from the rear face of the engine just above the gearbox oil filler.
For the camshaft timing, there's too much info to post on here, you really need the RepROM to show you the info.
Pauly S
Registered user
Thanks Adam
pm sent
pm sent
And received.....good luck with it Paul.
Pauly S
Registered user
you dont want to see this
Look at the chain run, theres a chain link stuck in the bottom of the sump, you cant get it out for love nor money.
this is how i cured the problem after stripping the cases.
Getting there.
The only way to remove the stuck camchain link is to strip it and rebuild the bottom end ...again.
You'll find out when you try and put the heads on, and the camchain isnt long enough.
Luckily i had only just put the heads on finger tight, and the head gaskets were un squashed and re usable.
The info from pukmeister was brill, and explained the cam timing nicely.
I'm just waiting for some more bits and the build will carry on.
Look at the chain run, theres a chain link stuck in the bottom of the sump, you cant get it out for love nor money.
this is how i cured the problem after stripping the cases.
Getting there.
The only way to remove the stuck camchain link is to strip it and rebuild the bottom end ...again.
You'll find out when you try and put the heads on, and the camchain isnt long enough.
Luckily i had only just put the heads on finger tight, and the head gaskets were un squashed and re usable.
The info from pukmeister was brill, and explained the cam timing nicely.
I'm just waiting for some more bits and the build will carry on.
Clever with the string. Is that a special knot that comes undone when you pull the end of the string?
Pauly S
Registered user
no but
Its good to have a long tail on the string,so when you cut the knot with the long handled scalpel,you dont lose the offcut into the sump.
Also you can thread the string thru the top of the chain,tied thru a few times, so as to use the tail to pull the cam chain thru the head and barrel.
clever eh?
But you need to use special bmw hi -perf string,available from me for a tenner a metre.
Touratech string isnt very good.You need the hi-tensile bmw stuff.
Its good to have a long tail on the string,so when you cut the knot with the long handled scalpel,you dont lose the offcut into the sump.
Also you can thread the string thru the top of the chain,tied thru a few times, so as to use the tail to pull the cam chain thru the head and barrel.
clever eh?
But you need to use special bmw hi -perf string,available from me for a tenner a metre.
Touratech string isnt very good.You need the hi-tensile bmw stuff.
You must have been peed off when you found that the cam chain had looped inside the crankcase. I'd have thought that jogging the shaft back and forwards while pulling on the chain would have pulled it through, but obviously not.
Good solution. Where there's a will there's a way and all that.
Good solution. Where there's a will there's a way and all that.
Looks like you've been busy Paul, jobs moving on nicely.
Pauly S
Registered user
ah well
The cam chain slipper on the other side, fixes inside the cases, and isnt removable and no amount of jiggaling will let you remove it.
solution, strip and do it again.
You can get one side out, by unbolting the cam chain slipper, but the other side is un-doable as fair as i can see.You must have been peed off when you found that the cam chain had looped inside the crankcase. I'd have thought that jogging the shaft back and forwards while pulling on the chain would have pulled it through, but obviously not.
Good solution. Where there's a will there's a way and all that.
The cam chain slipper on the other side, fixes inside the cases, and isnt removable and no amount of jiggaling will let you remove it.
solution, strip and do it again.
Pauly S
Registered user
waitinf now
Also beware you need to weigh the pistons if you are doing a repair and only fitting one barrel,piston head etc.
BMW sell the barrels and pistons in matched weight sets, luckily the parts i have are within specs allowed.
Theres also about 4 different sets of conrods too.
waiting for the posty with more bits, ive never seen an engine with so many consumables inside, lots of bolts, that are one use only, stretch bolts etc.i think weve done around 200 quid so far on bits n bobs and gaskets seals and washers etc.
Also beware you need to weigh the pistons if you are doing a repair and only fitting one barrel,piston head etc.
BMW sell the barrels and pistons in matched weight sets, luckily the parts i have are within specs allowed.
Theres also about 4 different sets of conrods too.
Knots, courtesy of granny!
When do you expect to be having the first live start then Paul ??
Can you quantify the total cost of repair once done? It would be interesting to know the true DIY repair costs for dropping a valve.
Can you quantify the total cost of repair once done? It would be interesting to know the true DIY repair costs for dropping a valve.
Kremmen
Registered user
Nomad biker, for reference the hollow dowel adjacent with the crank centre line ...is it cracked through??
Pauly S
Registered user
dunno
weve got the bills for most things, watch this space.
was hoping for a session on sunday, but the posty failed me.
weve got the bills for most things, watch this space.
was hoping for a session on sunday, but the posty failed me.
Pauly, is this Garth's motor...or yours??? 
Pauly S
Registered user
So is Garth's GS up & running now? And will he be taking it to Maroc?
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