1200GS Fuel Pump Bypass Cable

  • Thread starter Thread starter Burnszilla
  • Start date Start date
:confused:Sorry Burnszilla - I just don't get it? $26.95 virtually equates to the same price in sterling. I hate to 'wee on your bonfire' but....

If your FPC has failed, it is of no further use- so salvage and cut off the plug to re-use, add 20 pence bit of wire and connect to battery- job done-

For safety add a fuse (which also acts as a switch)
and better still for elegance, add a DIN plug
All in all - less than £7
I really can't see this as business opportunity :confused:
maybe it's just me:D


And which one of the Dragons are you:augie:augie:augie
 
:confused:Sorry Burnszilla - I just don't get it? $26.95 virtually equates to the same price in sterling. I hate to 'wee on your bonfire' but....

If your FPC has failed, it is of no further use- so salvage and cut off the plug to re-use, add 20 pence bit of wire and connect to battery- job done-

For safety add a fuse (which also acts as a switch)
and better still for elegance, add a DIN plug
All in all - less than £7
I really can't see this as business opportunity :confused:
maybe it's just me:D

Some riders want the convenience of being able to plug and go. Rather than cutting wires, on the side of a busy freeway.
Not everyone is handy. Some people don't want to source the parts. Some people don't have a soldering gun.
The DIN plug that would plug into the FPC power source is a restricted item and is not sold to the public.
The cables keep selling. :nenau
 
:confused:Sorry Burnszilla - I just don't get it? $26.95 virtually equates to the same price in sterling. I hate to 'wee on your bonfire' but....

If your FPC has failed, it is of no further use- so salvage and cut off the plug to re-use, add 20 pence bit of wire and connect to battery- job done-

For safety add a fuse (which also acts as a switch)
and better still for elegance, add a DIN plug
All in all - less than £7
I really can't see this as business opportunity :confused:
maybe it's just me:D


That's why we have Inventors, Innovators, business men and people with insight.

It makes perfect sence to me.
There is a problem, there is a man who has come up with a simple easy to use solution to the problem.
This man can also see that there are people who cannot easily understand or don't have the skills to construct a solution to this problem.
So he makes an easy to understand and utilise product for those people to buy and carry for their own piece of mind.
Problem solved, happy customers and a little profit made for his efforts.

One business opportunity realised. :nenau

If on the other hand you think that the 1200GS riders are being exploited. You'll be wise to read up on the subject of Profit and loss. There's not many on this planet that can either afford or continue to be inspired to provide a product or service for zero gain. Especially when there are others selling similar product for two to three times the price he is asking.

There are however plenty who only have profit in mind. You just need look at the TT Wunderlich price lists to understand that one.



Some riders want the convenience of being able to plug and go. Rather than cutting wires, on the side of a busy freeway.
Not everyone is handy. Some people don't want to source the parts. Some people don't have a soldering gun.
The DIN plug that would plug into the FPC power source is a restricted item and is not sold to the public.
The cables keep selling. :nenau


Val.
 
So having read through the thread.. is the draw from the fuel pump controller more than the aux socket can take or not?

determines whether to plug into the socket or straight to the battery :confused:
 
Is this fix viable or not and what is the final cost.. I like the idea of just plugging in to the aux power outlet...
 
acc wapping when he tried it direct to the aux socket it kept tripping so apparently it wont run via the socket.

guess someone needs to measure the current draw........
 
The fuel pump draw is about 7amps. The side canbus connected socket is 5amps.
 
The fuel pump draw is about 7amps. The side canbus connected socket is 5amps.

It certainly tripped the canbus when I tried to run it from the aux socket. I tried the aux on the beak as that was convenient and would obviously switch on and off with the ignition. The standard aux under the seat runs off the same system, so that trips as well.

The standard aux canbus controlled socket is 5 amps, for sure. If the fuel pump controller draws 7 amps, how is your plug-n-play going to work?

Or is it run via a separate canbus socket and a relay? Or direct to the battery (needs a fuse, which yours seems to lack)?

In short, how do you use it and how does it work?
 
The instructions on my site tell the user to have the aux socket go directly to the battery with a fuse.
 
Surely there already is a 7 amp supply for the pump? Why can't that be used?

It can be used with the Posi-tap option. The 3 pin male plug that would fit is restricted and not available to the public.
 
Some riders want the convenience of being able to plug and go. Rather than cutting wires, on the side of a busy freeway.
Not everyone is handy. Some people don't want to source the parts. Some people don't have a soldering gun.

To my mind, that strikes me as somewhat mutually exclusive - if the person isn't "handy" or always looks for a plug-n-go option, I wouldn't expect them to go diving into the bike's workings to resolve the problem. If you're handy enough to know the symptoms and carry out the workaround, you're handy enough to make your own solution?

Obviously a generalisation, and you say people are buying them, so who knows.
 
So, in summary.

(A) These leads will work if you connect them directly to the battery. But you will need at least a 7 amp fuse in-line. The power supply will be continuous, so you will need an in-line switch; simply removing the fuse will do.

(B) These leads will work if you tap them into a power source that is capable of taking a load greater than 7 amps. It is more than likely that these will be switched via the ignition.

(C) These leads will NOT work if you plug them directly into the standard auxiliary power supply socket(s) on a 1200 GS / GSA. The reason? The pump controller draws more than the socket(s) 5 amp limit.
 
As there were 4x1200GS/RT on our recent trip to Spain, I bought one of the cables with SAE (battery tender style) connector (for direct fused connection to battery). Cost about £20, is very well made and was delivered quickly. As it happened, none of the bikes missed a beat, but it's a handy thing to have around and in the grand scheme of things a fairly inexpensive insurance. Still fairly cold and snowy on some of the Pyrenees passes and I really wouldn't have wanted to be cutting cables....
 
New photo of the options. Also have the option of FP connector only with custom length cable.
bmw-fuel-pump-bypass-cables.jpg

What does the one on the top right plug in to?
 
What does the one on the top right plug in to?
It plugs into and SAE cable connected to the battery. Some riders have that hookup for their heated clothing. Perhaps I should start selling the cable that attaches to the battery too?
 
It plugs into and SAE cable connected to the battery. Some riders have that hookup for their heated clothing. Perhaps I should start selling the cable that attaches to the battery too?

Could be an idea- the SAE connectors seem to be quite difficult to source in the UK. I checked at Maplins (like Radio Shack) and they didn't know what I was talking about. Then I remembered I luckily happened to have a fused battery-SAE connector which came with a (Slime) compressor...so works perfectly with your cable. It saves having to connect accessory socket direct to battery (rather than CANBUS).
 
Could be an idea- the SAE connectors seem to be quite difficult to source in the UK. I checked at Maplins (like Radio Shack) and they didn't know what I was talking about. Then I remembered I luckily happened to have a fused battery-SAE connector which came with a (Slime) compressor...so works perfectly with your cable. It saves having to connect accessory socket direct to battery (rather than CANBUS).

they are available all over mate, all the powerlet stuff uses the SAE connectors and you can buy them easily off the shelf..
 


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