12k service.... and new rears pads

[EVskiy]

Morning all. I have an upcoming 12k service in a few weeks, been told a while ago that I will likely need new pads at the rear. Now would you let dealer carry out this (bike still under warranty) or would you buy OEM pads and fit them yourself? Or is the cost difference so minor that it wouldn’t be worth the hassle doing yourself?

EV


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[RedRick Esq.]

The cost difference will not be minor !

If it was me i would buy some Brembo pads from somewhere like motor works and DIY and save the money

 

[Nutty]

With the reports of calipers launching themselves into rear wheels, I’d get the dealer to do it, as they’ll use new bolts and torque it correctly.

 

[knutk]

Morning all. I have an upcoming 12k service in a few weeks, been told a while ago that I will likely need new pads at the rear. Now would you let dealer carry out this (bike still under warranty) or would you buy OEM pads and fit them yourself? Or is the cost difference so minor that it wouldn’t be worth the hassle doing yourself?

EV


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Personally I would buy the OEM pads and change them my self. It's a simple 15 min job. I find it simpler to do if I remove the rear mudguard first.

The OEM pads are more expensive than pads from independent suppliers. My philosophy is to go for OEM. They way I think is that the ABS is based on a defines performance from the pads, and if using different pads this may make a difference.

i have friends that use non-OEM pads, and it does not seem to be a problem. However, I don't ride bikes to save money, and using OEM-parts make me feel good and assured about the performance of the part.
Others do it differently, and they are fine about it.

 

[iandavid]

Surely you don’t to remove the caliper to change pads??

 

[knutk]

With the reports of calipers launching themselves into rear wheels, I’d get the dealer to do it, as they’ll use new bolts and torque it correctly.

You don't need to remove the caliper in order to change the pads.
You remove the rear mud-guard, remove the clip that holds the pin, remove the pin and pull out the pads. Mount in reverse order and torque the mudguard by 8Nm.
BWW says to use Locktite on the mudguard bolts.

 

[ChazzyB]

Personally I would buy the OEM pads and change them my self. It's a simple 15 min job. I find it simpler to do if I remove the rear mudguard first.

The OEM pads are more expensive than pads from independent suppliers. My philosophy is to go for OEM. They way I think is that the ABS is based on a defines performance from the pads, and if using different pads this may make a difference.

i have friends that use non-OEM pads, and it does not seem to be a problem. However, I don't ride bikes to save money, and using OEM-parts make me feel good and assured about the performance of the part.
Others do it differently, and they are fine about it.

No, ABS doesn't give a toss about the pad performance. ABS measures the wheel speed.

And new caliper bolts is bollocks. But you knew that. (@Nutty, not Knutty)

 

[Posh Pete]

The cost difference will not be minor !

If it was me i would buy some Brembo pads from somewhere like motor works and DIY and save the money

About 35 quid per disc, I would guess? Buy them from Motorworks or 'bins or Steptoe (GS shop) and fit them yourself.

 

[knutk]

No, ABS doesn't give a toss about the pad performance. ABS measures the wheel speed.

That is correct per se, but keep in mind that in addition to prevent the wheels from locking up ABS also takes care of the integral brakes, and it uses the rear wheel in order to stabilize the bike for improved stability when braking.
This may of course be a minor detail, but I am willing to pay the extra for a may be imaginary performance.

 

[SMB]

Pads.

No, ABS doesn't give a toss about the pad performance. ABS measures the wheel speed.
(@Nutty, not Knutty)

True, but surely with linked brakes (front brake lever) the pad material should be the same for front and back to keep the braking balance as originally set by them upstairs.

SMB

 

[jefformston]

Surely you don’t to remove the caliper to change pads??

I tend to so I can clean the pistons at the same time as changing the pads, still only takes a few minutes

 

[RedRick Esq.]

I tend to so I can clean the pistons at the same time as changing the pads, still only takes a few minutes

yep

Even with the cost of replacing the bolts so that it wont kill you afterwards it will still be massively cheaper to DIY the pad change

 

[Nice 'n' Fat]

True, but surely with linked brakes (front brake lever) the pad material should be the same for front and back to keep the braking balance as originally set by them upstairs.

SMB

So are you suggesting is that if the OP changes the rear pads he should also change the fronts at the same time, regardless of their condition?

 

[stever1]

With the reports of calipers launching themselves into rear wheels, I’d get the dealer to do it, as they’ll use new bolts and torque it correctly.

You've obviously never changed rear pads

Pull out 2 r clips. Drift out retaining pin. pull out pads. Assemble in reverse order-----Optional, clean calliper with old toothbrush.
I did this while on holiday in Italy, It took 10 minutes and 2 bottles of beer. It was very warm.
I used the OEM pads from james sherlocks, about £30 if I remember correctly.

 

[SMB]

So are you suggesting is that if the OP changes the rear pads he should also change the fronts at the same time, regardless of their condition?

No. I would keep the rear material the same as the front pads. Then when the front pads need changing I would consider what options are available.

My reasoning is that different manufactorers pads may have different coefficient of friction, thus altering the balance of the front to back braking. Obviously this would not alter emergency braking as the abs would kick in but in lighter braking the unbalance might be there upsetting the balance/stability of the bike, all be it, it would probably be small.

 

[Steptoe]

True, but surely with linked brakes (front brake lever) the pad material should be the same for front and back to keep the braking balance as originally set by them upstairs.

SMB

What a load of utter cock......

 

[knutk]

What a load of utter cock......

Why is that so? Please elaborate.

What he says is technically true, even if the difference may be marginal , as he also states, quote: "the unbalance might be there upsetting the balance/stability of the bike, all be it, it would probably be small.".

If you you have information that explains otherwise I am sure we would like to learn from your wisdom. Otherwise the statement is utterly useless.

 

[Spritchy]

I changed all 3 sets of pads recently. Dealer quoted £320 including new bolts. I bought EBC pads from sportsbikeshop for £70 and it took me less than half an hour to do the whole job and I didn't need to remove any of the calipers. Save yourself the money and do it yourself

 

[EVskiy]

Thank you all! Looking like I shall get OEM pads from dealer, and change them myself.




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