1300 GSA and electrical accessories

That is an idea I think I'm going to try! Thanks 😊
Last night I thought I'd found the issue! The sidestand switch is defo buggered. But because I've been riding bikes forever, I just never leave the sidestand out, so never noticed it wasn't working. It'll need replacing. However with it disconnected, I'm still getting a big resistance reading across the battery leads (no battery fitted, alternator disconnected, starter disconnected...)

I'll get there! But all tips are welcome! 😊
re clutch / sidestand switching

if its a normal ABS2 bike (>=2007MY) - check the silly micro switch adjustment screw a) you aren't meant to fiddle with on the clutch lever for K bikes or b) the micro switch screw on the R series ones

I think mines is a smidge out (due to wear and tear) and sometimes it wont crank, then you do everything the same again and it will

see part 11

 
I cant get the Keis jacket to stay on, on the 1300 with Lithium battery. Had the same on my GSA 1250 (non lithium) and upgraded the battery and it then worked fine. Not sure if there is such a thing as an upgrade on the Lithium battery.
Thanks for that is interesting. I am beginning to wonder how much the software setup on the 1250/1300 impacts all of this stuff. Meaning. There's a good and bad way to set them up...

Ref a battery upgrade - with the lithium battery, there is actually the possibility to 'upgrade' and that is to fit a higher Ah rated battery. Because the lithium batteries are so energy dense (compared to lead acid or AGM) it's perfectly possible to have the two lithium batteries of exact same external dimensions but with quite different Ah ratings. How do I know this? Because I have a replacement battery in the wings, waiting for my current short circuit to be fixed - it's an Aliant battery, exact same dims as my old Aliant, but instead of 18Ah, it is rated at 24Ah... my hope/expectation is, it will bright the gap in demand more competently than the 18Ah - though I have to reiterate that I've been using heated jacket and trousers for years without an issue!
 
re clutch / sidestand switching

if its a normal ABS2 bike (>=2007MY) - check the silly micro switch adjustment screw a) you aren't meant to fiddle with on the clutch lever for K bikes or b) the micro switch screw on the R series ones

I think mines is a smidge out (due to wear and tear) and sometimes it wont crank, then you do everything the same again and it will

see part 11

Something else to check. Thank you!

Whatever is causing my short is exacerbated by water ingress... Additionally, because of that, I don't think it's a coincidence all this happened after the ride through Switzerland where the roads were - of course - covered with a lot of fresh salt. There is a connection I think, no pun intended 😄
 
re clutch / sidestand switching

if its a normal ABS2 bike (>=2007MY) - check the silly micro switch adjustment screw a) you aren't meant to fiddle with on the clutch lever for K bikes or b) the micro switch screw on the R series ones

I think mines is a smidge out (due to wear and tear) and sometimes it wont crank, then you do everything the same again and it will

see part 11

Wrong thread, mate…

This is the 1300 section :proff
 
Haha, did he have a 1250 for sale by any chance!
Either bike should have more than enough reserve electrical power to run all your heated gear, the cause of all your woes on the other thread were probably not just down to the load you placed on the bikes` system but a combination of age, wear`n`tear, weathering and general useage. GS alternators are an oft-replaced part, are they not? They don`t last forever, your heated gear is quite a load though and may have shortened the life of a middle-aged alternator. Who knows, impossible to tell, really.

It seems a bit bizarre to choose a bike on it`s alternator output but for what it`s worth the 1250 has 500W and the 1300 has 650W, the increase on the 1300 may have been necessary to power all the extra gubbins those bikes are saddled with such as ride height motors, radars, `leccy screens and gawd knows what else. Take those loads off the total and you`re probably left with a similar surplus electrical capacity to that of the 1250.

They do seem to have upped the load you can put on `all onboard accessory sockets` from 5A on the 1250 to 12A on a 13. That may help you hook up all your gear..

How is diagnostics on the 1200 going, have you been confident enough to connect the battery up yet!
I've just re-read your post and absorbed the detail ref accessory sockets accepting 12A load on them. This may be the answer I was looking for 😊

ps. Still hunting for this flippin short. Have been busy with the day job, but revisiting of course. Work aside I'm going slowly. I have no wish to create an new problem! Dinner of me search involve re-checking!
Two new relays and sidestand switch ordered. The latter is definitely rubbish. Just want it off they list - it may have even created the current bigger short...
 
The stator output on my DR800 Dr Big is a paltry 200W which is just about sufficient to run the bike let alone my electrically-powered `winter survival suit`..
I can only just feel any warmth, i have to `dab` myself to check that it`s still working....
 


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