1300 Oil Change

GSThree

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I’ve decided to treat the bike to an oil change at 3500 miles as it all looked a bit black in the sight glass. Glad I did, the old oil was disgusting and there was a fair bit of swarf on the magnetic sump plug.
There are 2 drain plugs, needing different sizes of washers, and there are 2 different torque settings: the big one (oil tank to oil sump) is 28 Nm, the small one (dry sump to oil sump) is only 10 Nm.
The filter is very different to the previous models, being a paper element behind a cover attached by 3 bolts (and needing a new rubber O-ring). However, I’ve not been able to find the torque figure for these 3 bolts; has anybody else come across this yet?
Finally, after putting 5 litres of the Advantec oil in, and running the engine for a couple of minutes, the oil in the sight glass is below the min level, has anyone else experienced this?
Hopefully, if Bee-Emm can move a few more of these things there will be a Haynes manual out soon to help out with all this!
Jules
 
This guy does good videos, oil filter starts around 12’, I think he gives the torque setting at 12’49”

it’s in polish I think, maybe @EVskij can understand what he says as he speaks Russian which has similarities?

 
Last edited:
Remember when BMW sold service manuals?

There hasn't been a Haynes manual for a BMW bike since 2018 and there won't be for the R1300GS because BMW is not making service information available since 2021.
 
GSThree said:
I’ve decided to treat the bike to an oil change at 3500 miles as it all looked a bit black in the sight glass. Glad I did, the old oil was disgusting and there was a fair bit of swarf on the magnetic sump plug.
There are 2 drain plugs, needing different sizes of washers, and there are 2 different torque settings: the big one (oil tank to oil sump) is 28 Nm, the small one (dry sump to oil sump) is only 10 Nm.
The filter is very different to the previous models, being a paper element behind a cover attached by 3 bolts (and needing a new rubber O-ring). However, I’ve not been able to find the torque figure for these 3 bolts; has anybody else come across this yet?
Finally, after putting 5 litres of the Advantec oil in, and running the engine for a couple of minutes, the oil in the sight glass is below the min level, has anyone else experienced this?
Hopefully, if Bee-Emm can move a few more of these things there will be a Haynes manual out soon to help out with all this!
Jules
Click to expand...
Remember oil expands when hot. So get the engine warm, switch off and read sight glass after 2 minutes.
 
GSThree said:
I’ve decided to treat the bike to an oil change at 3500 miles as it all looked a bit black in the sight glass. Glad I did, the old oil was disgusting and there was a fair bit of swarf on the magnetic sump plug.
There are 2 drain plugs, needing different sizes of washers, and there are 2 different torque settings: the big one (oil tank to oil sump) is 28 Nm, the small one (dry sump to oil sump) is only 10 Nm.
The filter is very different to the previous models, being a paper element behind a cover attached by 3 bolts (and needing a new rubber O-ring). However, I’ve not been able to find the torque figure for these 3 bolts; has anybody else come across this yet?
Finally, after putting 5 litres of the Advantec oil in, and running the engine for a couple of minutes, the oil in the sight glass is below the min level, has anyone else experienced this?
Hopefully, if Bee-Emm can move a few more of these things there will be a Haynes manual out soon to help out with all this!
Jules
Click to expand...
Torque is 9-11nm for a steel M6 bolt on a BMW.

Basically just "nipped up" for those with a trained hand.

Filling procedure is:

From fully drained, fill until sight glass is full. Then run engine to operating temperature. Warm it up using throttle. Get that oil hot. Then leave it for a minute and top it up to 3/4 of the sight glass. 5L is usual. Sometimes if can take more if you really let the motor fully drain.

You really don't need to change the 0-ring on the oil filter. It will last years and multiple oil changes as long as you're not cack-handed with it.
 
Standard torque settings, courtesy of Mr Yamaha.....

09246a5aa4cd7725b30ff3affb2540a4.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
MotoRevive said:
Torque is 9-11nm for a steel M6 bolt on a BMW.

Basically just "nipped up" for those with a trained hand.

Filling procedure is:

From fully drained, fill until sight glass is full. Then run engine to operating temperature. Warm it up using throttle. Get that oil hot. Then leave it for a minute and top it up to 3/4 of the sight glass. 5L is usual. Sometimes if can take more if you really let the motor fully drain.
Click to expand...

leadfarmer said:
Also don’t forget you need to check the 1300 stood on it’s wheels, which is easy to do with the new sight glass position, not on the stand like the 1200/1250
Click to expand...
It makes pretty much no relevant difference. As long as it's not on its side stand.
Pukmeister said:
Standard torque settings, courtesy of Mr Yamaha.....

09246a5aa4cd7725b30ff3affb2540a4.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
The official BMW torque for this bolt is 10nm. Not 6NM.

It's not a Yamaha.
 
MotoRevive said:
The official BMW torque for this bolt is 10nm. Not 6NM.

It's not a Yamaha.
Click to expand...
I get that, but these are "standard torques" which can apply to many fasteners across many machines and are at a slightly lower setting than the one you quoted, so will retain the bolt whilst avoiding the risk of thread damage.

Its just a handy guide, nothing more.

If the offical BMW torque setting is slightly higher, presumably they spec their bolts and female threads higher than other manufacturers do, such is German quality? Use that instead. :nenau
 
leadfarmer said:
it’s in polish I think, maybe @EVskij can understand what he says as he speaks Russian which has similarities?
Click to expand...
His web info says Vilnius, Lithuania.

I hate changing paper cartridge type oil filters on small engines, always bloody messy.

I much prefer a disposable metal spin-on canister, I guess they moved to the paper-only stuff now for the environmental manufacturing and waste aspects (plus its cheaper).
 
Pukmeister said:
I get that, but these are "standard torques" which can apply to many fasteners across many machines and are at a slightly lower setting than the one you quoted, so will retain the bolt whilst avoiding the risk of thread damage.

Its just a handy guide, nothing more.

If the offical BMW torque setting is slightly higher, presumably they spec their bolts and female threads higher than other manufacturers do, such is German quality? Use that instead. :nenau
Click to expand...
I get that

Those are very low settings from Yamaha . I know Honda, Suzuki and Kawasaki all quote 9nm for an M6.

Not worth losing sleep over though I agree 👍
 
Wondering if 3500 miles is when the first oil change should be done from new (seems a lot of miles) and if not, why is there swarf(!) in the oil? Do these engines take 5 litres? Seems like a lot for a bike.
 
leadfarmer said:
This guy does good videos, oil filter starts around 12’, I think he gives the torque setting at 12’49”

it’s in polish I think, maybe @EVskij can understand what he says as he speaks Russian which has similarities?

Click to expand...
He speaks Russkiy. I understand each and every word of it, but can’t tell you 😆
 
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