2000 R1100RT buying tips.

[Dickyb]

Dear All,

Firstly, thank you for an excellent site. Very informative and chuckle inducing, especially the cat fights that occasionally develop on the For Sale and Wanted forum.

I would like to ask for some advice if I may. Here in Turkey bikes are very expensive compared to Blighty which, until now, has restricted my rides to single cylinder Yamahas namely XT600's, 660's and TT600's.

In Blighty over the years I owned various Beemers including a R80GS, R100RT, R100RS, GS1100 and a GS1150 so I am not a complete stranger to the marque.

The wife would like to do some touring and, God bless her, she deserves it. I have the chance to buy what sounds like a decent 2000 R1100RT with 50000kms on the clock for a similar price to what they command in the UK. I will be viewing it in a weeks time. I would greatly appreciate any pointers on what to pay particular attention to on this model when viewing/test riding.

I have done a search on this site and will be looking under the plastics and testing the clutch for slippage. Anything else peculiar to this model that I need to be looking for.

Many thanks,

David

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

*Copied over from the original thread in the for sale sec*


Hi,
You may want to find out if its had a clutch replacement, if it has ask if the receipts are available, it would be best if the whole clutch had been replaced rather than just the friction plate (Often done for economics if selling bike)

However at 30k miles you may have a few years in it yet,

The brakes may need attention, rubber lines disintegrate internally, with age, pistons corrode, discs can be costly

However the engines are solid and capable of high mileages regular oil changes with filter are recommended

I have a 1999 model with 42k on it, I have replaced clutch (Oil contaminated from leaking output seal getting down pushrod tunnel) the box needed stripping to do the seal so gave it to scrimingers to overhaul, Drive shaft was seized, swinging-arm and para-lever bearings shot (Badly maintained) brake lines disintegrating internally, front calliper pistons and seals replaced with new stainless lines and total fluid change, full service, oils, filters, inj balance, valve & endfloats adjusted, plus a lot of paint work sorted under the fairing.
Fortunatly I almost like working on the bike as much as riding it so enjoyed getting it all in shape myself, it now rides superbly, R1100RT's are great when sorted and if you get a good un make a brilliant tourer, but can be a money pit! especially if you need to pay to have work done.

PS, thought I recognised your name, been following your "Turkish Delights" thread over on ADV rider for a while, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=374143 Good thread, Great photography, welcome to UKGSER's

Mark

 

[dizzyrascal]

Brake Lines

Hi

I have a 1100 rt great bike, Easyrider did you have to remove the front mudguard on your bike to change the brake lines. I am thinking of doing this but when I last tried to remove the mudguard the screw was locked solid.

eek

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

My mudguard and fairing was off any at the time, Looking at it now I guess its possible to do with the mudguard in place, but not "best practice" be aware of brake fluid flying about and its habit off removing / marking paint
If your fixings are seized maybe its a good time to sort them as well?

Mark

 

[Dickyb]

Thanks very much for pasting your reply over to here from the original thread Mark. Off to see the bike next Saturday armed with your observations.

Cheers,

Dickyb