2000 R1150GS Questions......

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nakednut

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Good Morning All:
I'm a newbie here and I have a few questions concerning my 2000 R1150GS (US Model)...Here's the story: I purchased the bike a few weeks back for $1,800.00. It was a one owner bike with 8K original miles. It was in the previous owners garage next to his snow blower which caught fire. The bike was damaged on the front left side. Melted the ABS lines, the lower front wheel mudguard, the alternator cover, the alternator belt, the oil pressure wire, and the tire. The fire was put out within 5 minutes, so the no other wiring was affected. Also, there was some discoloration on the left side cylinder and valve cover. I first drained the oil then removed all the melted parts. Next, I removed the gas tank to inspect for any further fire damage, which there was none. I also replaced the battery. I installed a new belt yesterday and filled her with oil to see if I could get it to start. Well, guess what, no spark....now, here's my question, if the wire that is connected to the oil pressure sensor is disconnected will it stop the bike from running? I tried grounding the wire, but still nothing. What that did was make the oil light come on when the key is turned. I am waiting for the new oil pressure sensor to come in the mail, and I hope that does it. If not, I have a feeling it's going to be the Hall/Ignition sensor. What do you guys think? Anything else that it could be before I spend $250.00 for the Hall sensor..
Thanks,
Craig

PS: This is an awesome site...lot's of information....
 
Welcome naked nut

Buying a bike with this history, its probably going to need a more throrough strip down to check,test and replace whats needed all components damaged by fire.

Fire damage is obvious ( visible ) and not so obvious ( invisible ) so you really need to check the whole thing component by component, that way the problem(s) will reveal themselves to you as you go along.

Good luck m8 :thumb2
 
thanks for the replies...i know the price was so good i couldn't pass it up. i would however like to get it running and ride the s**t out of it. it has such low miles and the rest of the bike is super clean. all symptoms do point to the hall sensor..the cheapest i found in the states is $219.00 + shipping!! alot of money imo...i'm going to check all the connectors again and install the new oil pressure sensor when it comes and see what happens..hopefully it will fire up..any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated..since it's 85 degrees and sunny i'm going to put some miles on the K1200R...i'll work on this bike some other time...it's been a long winter here and just wanna ride..thanks again....
 
Hi there,welcome.
I take it the motor turns over on the starter and you can hear the fuel pump priming the system.
I think you can check out the hall sensors by removing an injector and seeing if you get a spray of fuel when you turn the motor by hand (plugs out) as the trigger point passes the sensors.
I dont know if you've seen this on ADVrider,but it looks useful.
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/
Scroll down to "R259 crank angle sensor".
 
yes, when i turn the key the fuel pump primes and the motor turn over like it wants to start. i removed one of the injectors before to see if there was any gas when i tried to start it and i'm getting nothing, no gas no spark. i did this with the plugs in and pressing the starter..should i do it with the plugs out? i checked the side stand cut off it seems to be fine..the fuel pump will not prime with the stand down..as soon as i put the stand back up the fuel pump starts to prime..so i do not think that's the problem..same with the engine cut off switch on the right side handlebar control.. in the middle (on) the pump turns on..to the left or right i get the same result like with the sidestand..it's starting to look like the hall sensor is bad..i'm going out to remove it and see what the wiring looks like..maybe it's melted underneath the pulley..from the pulley up it looks fine. from what i've read the sensors themselves very rarely go bad, it's the wiring..so hopefully i'll see the problem when i take it off...also, i purchased a new belt from bmw and it was a pain in the ass to put on..i loosened the alternator but i really had to struggle to get that belt over the two pulley's..is that normal or did the guy at bmw give me the wrong belt?? so i really don't want to take it off again..but i guess at this point i have no choice...
 
Stick it in top and turn the wheel.

You should hear the pump prime and stop and the sensor rotates - if it does this it might not be dud. However if there is no spark then I'd guess it probably is.
 
I think they changed the drive belt at some later stage.
What part number does yours have on it?.
Try a forum search as i think Steptoe has covered this a few times.
 
real quick...it is without a doubt the hall sensor...i removed it before and the wiring behind the plate is fried...oh well whats another $300.00....thanks for all the help..i'll keep you guys updated...
 
So being the obsessed ass that i am, i stayed up until 2am rewiring the hall sensor....well guess what, she started right up...:clap:clap:clap
i'm still going to order a new one, since the wiring job wasn't the best (no stores open at 1am)..thanks again for all the help...i'll post some pics when i'm done with the bike...:beerjug:
 
I think theres a thread over on ADVrider or IBMWR somewhere they show the right type of wire for rewiring the HES, makes more sense to me, especially now you have the bike running.
Stewart
 


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