2002 R1150GS - diary of an accidental full restoration
- Thread starter Bikermike1411
- Start date
Nice job what paint did you use
I’ve just sprayed the beek on my GSA which was gouged with truck bed liner
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Inrerested to see how robust it is on plastic, looks an ideal finish for BMW R1150GS panniersI’ve just sprayed the beek on my GSA which was gouged with truck bed liner
View attachment 454405
View attachment 454404
Yeah I’m intrigued about what paint. Looks really good 
Gives a lovely finishYeah I’m intrigued about what paint. Looks really good
It was this (link at bottom) I just used plastic filler to fill in the gouges, sanded and then a few coats of this, the nozzle does clog up very quickly so I had to clear it frequently with a blast of compressed air.
Also did the plastic side cover
Hycote Bodyshop Fast Drying Aerosol Car Spray Paint, Truck Bed Liner, 400 ml https://amzn.eu/d/c2nFYg3
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Done a lovely job there
Managed to steal an hour in the garage last night, so used it to get the tailpiece off. Can someone at BMW please learn the value of sub-looms? Having to disconnect light fittings inside the units themselves is a pain!
I’m hoping to get all the ancillary bits off this weekend. I’ll need to nip out to Tesco and procure a couple more plastic boxes to keep everything in though first. The reality is that a dismantled bike physically takes up more space than a complete one, and my shelves are already full of boxes of ‘good’ Pan European bits ‘I might need one day’!
In other news, does anyone know if a shock off 1999-2001 1150GS will fit mine (Jan 02)?
You're right about the sub-looms - what an easy thing to put in when building a bike.
But we all know vehicle designers hate mechanics...
But we all know vehicle designers hate mechanics...
Front shock, back shock or both? Yours is an ADV, isn't it? So it'll lower the ride height and your centre stand will be a seesaw, but they'll certainly fit...
I've just checked and your's isn't an ADV - so it'll be a straight swap...Front shock, back shock or both? Yours is an ADV, isn't it? So it'll lower the ride height and your centre stand will be a seesaw, but they'll certainly fit...
Sweet, Cheers Mike. Yep, it’s a standard GS. I’ve been looking for a decent rear shock and noticed one advertised ‘up to 2001’. I’ve read that BMW changed parts mid-cycle and just wanted to check. Good to know, thanks!
Yes, the lights, wiring, and assembly of the rear subframe, the plastic panel, argh.
Lucky i have my pet octopus to help me when working that area!
I did re wire it all some time ago and put a deutsch plug in to make it a bit easier.
Lucky i have my pet octopus to help me when working that area!
I did re wire it all some time ago and put a deutsch plug in to make it a bit easier.
That’s a good idea Ewe! I’ve got some multi-plugs I could use to split the loom - I’ll consider doing that on reassembly.
It may be possible to do the same for the front end too!
It may be possible to do the same for the front end too!
Spent some time sorting the right hand side of the front engine cover this morning. It was heavily marked from where I paused too long with the sanding disc when removing the paint and pitting marks. Started by cross hatching with permanent marker, then set to it with a hand file. The file removes the high points and the marker stays in the low points - just keep working at it until all the marker is removed.
I still need to give it a sanding by hand, but very happy with how it’s come out
I then took off the pillion pegs - before doing so I decided to loosen the screws holding the plastic caps which act as locators for the panniers, while they were still on the bike and braced. The left hand ones came away fine, but the upper screw on the right hand side is seized solid. It’s going to need thinking about. Either put the pillion peg mount in the vice and hit it with an impact driver, or cut away the cap to access the screw head, remove it and buy a replacement cap.
Last thing I did was remove the starter motor to access the gear lever spline bolt. Which, predictably, snapped. Thankfully I was able to pry the link open and remove it, along with the right hand footpeg mount and gear lever arm. I tried holding the stub sticking out in the vice to remove it from the linkage, but it’s just rounded it off. I’m going to have to either drill out the snapped bolt or buy another linkage when I come to reassemble everything.
However, all in all not a bad day!
Today I’ve removed the right hand footrest and spent the best part of two hours trying to work out how to support the engine and gearbox so I can remove the side and centre stands, shock and subframe.
It was nice to find evidence of copper slip, clearly someone actually thought about future spannering at some point!
Unfortunately, unlike Japanese bikes, with nice, flat sumps, it seems I can’t just put a piece of wood under the engine and use a car jack to support everything. For some reason this beast has a V-shaped profile. Go figure. I’ve been trying to find a workaround with no success yet.
The only solution I can think of is wood under the gearbox on two axel stands, and somehow using two jacks at the front, one either side, to give lateral support.
Can anyone advise on how I move forward from here?
I’m off to make a brew.
Cheers
Mike
It was nice to find evidence of copper slip, clearly someone actually thought about future spannering at some point!
Unfortunately, unlike Japanese bikes, with nice, flat sumps, it seems I can’t just put a piece of wood under the engine and use a car jack to support everything. For some reason this beast has a V-shaped profile. Go figure. I’ve been trying to find a workaround with no success yet.
The only solution I can think of is wood under the gearbox on two axel stands, and somehow using two jacks at the front, one either side, to give lateral support.
Can anyone advise on how I move forward from here?
I’m off to make a brew.
Cheers
Mike
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Just for clarity - I’ve drilled out those batons under the sump guard studs so the studs sink into the batons. I’m not looking at sitting the whole engine on 4 6mm threads!
Also, I haven’t even tried removing the studs - if one snaps it’ll be an absolute disaster, so I’m leaving them in situ. It’s a pain I’m having to work around!
Also, I haven’t even tried removing the studs - if one snaps it’ll be an absolute disaster, so I’m leaving them in situ. It’s a pain I’m having to work around!
Referring back to my post about a disconnect connector for the rear lights.
This is what I did.
Its a Deutsch DT Series 6 pin plug.
a Deutsch DTM series 6 pin plug would be smaller but this is what I had to hand at the time and I am not sure if the standard wires would fit in to a DTM series plug.
(All my stuff is in storage at the moment)
The white collars are heat shrink labels with the wire ident written on to it, that haven't yet been heat shrunk and then put clear heat shrink over the top.
Hasn't happened yet, I don't remember why for sure.
I have used the Deutsch connectors in other places and on other projects. Not cheap, but excellent, water proof, and reliable.
I get my Deutsch connectors from here - because I live here.
www.deutschconnectors.com.au
Here is the cattledog
www.deutschconnectors.com.au
This is what I did.
Its a Deutsch DT Series 6 pin plug.
a Deutsch DTM series 6 pin plug would be smaller but this is what I had to hand at the time and I am not sure if the standard wires would fit in to a DTM series plug.
(All my stuff is in storage at the moment)
The white collars are heat shrink labels with the wire ident written on to it, that haven't yet been heat shrunk and then put clear heat shrink over the top.
Hasn't happened yet, I don't remember why for sure.
I have used the Deutsch connectors in other places and on other projects. Not cheap, but excellent, water proof, and reliable.
I get my Deutsch connectors from here - because I live here.
Deutsch Connectors Australia | Deutsch Connectors Supplied Worldwide
Deutsch Connectors Australia and genuine TE Deutsch connector kits with Deutsch connector tools and Deutsch contact pins and sockets, available online by Australian distributor deutschconnectors.com.au
www.deutschconnectors.com.au
Here is the cattledog
Catalogues
Australian supplier of TE Deutsch Connectors and Deutsch Connector Kits available online including Deutsch DT series, deutsch DTM series, Deutsch HD series, and Deutsch connector kits, supplied worldwide and delivered to your door.
www.deutschconnectors.com.au
Whilst I was getting the above picture, I remembered something else.
After Fuel, tires, oil, and general running costs, I think the most expensive thing for my 1150GS has been the indicators.
They have either broken when fallen / falling over, or most often it seems, the nut has vibrated loose and then the indicator comes loose, dangles on its wire and then is some between here and Betoota. I dont know how many I have replaced over the years.
I tried Locktite, I tried doing them up, again, and tight, nothing that I did seemed to work.
The size of the nut and getting a socket or spanner in there was easy.
Then I got some external spring clips. Do the nut up, put the spring clip over the thread section, havent lost one since!
Not the best picture, but moto is also in storage to level and so this the best I could do. you can see the black ring inboard of the nut. (and also another use of a 2pin Deutsch connector)
After Fuel, tires, oil, and general running costs, I think the most expensive thing for my 1150GS has been the indicators.
They have either broken when fallen / falling over, or most often it seems, the nut has vibrated loose and then the indicator comes loose, dangles on its wire and then is some between here and Betoota. I dont know how many I have replaced over the years.
I tried Locktite, I tried doing them up, again, and tight, nothing that I did seemed to work.
The size of the nut and getting a socket or spanner in there was easy.
Then I got some external spring clips. Do the nut up, put the spring clip over the thread section, havent lost one since!
Not the best picture, but moto is also in storage to level and so this the best I could do. you can see the black ring inboard of the nut. (and also another use of a 2pin Deutsch connector)
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