2003 twin spark r1150 gs Poor tickover

[Johny w]

Today my bike stalled twice when coming to a stop......I've noticed a rough, uneven idle.......I've replaced all plugs with iridium ones and replaced both coil packs......I bought a new fuel filter before the trouble, but not fitted it yet.
I've balanced the injection and the tickover was good until today.
I've noticed a tappety sound, but seems to be coming from the alternator cover, more noticeable when I decelerate or low revs.
I'm not sure if this is linked to it idling poorly or cutting out.....any thoughts please?

 

[sproggy]

Dirty fuel? Are you sure the new plugs are genuine? There are a lot of nasty knock-offs out there. Does the bike run smoothly above idle (1500-2000rpm) or is it rough? Check the throttle cable seating in the adjuster on the right hand throttle body. Symptoms do sound like a failed coil pack - try pulling one at a time and see if it makes a difference. If pulling one of them makes no difference it's a bad one, even if it is new.

 

[Johny w]

Dirty fuel? Are you sure the new plugs are genuine? There are a lot of nasty knock-offs out there. Does the bike run smoothly above idle (1500-2000rpm) or is it rough? Check the throttle cable seating in the adjuster on the right hand throttle body. Symptoms do sound like a failed coil pack - try pulling one at a time and see if it makes a difference. If pulling one of them makes no difference it's a bad one, even if it is new.

New fuel [shell] ....plugs were from a reputable company who specialise in plugs and coils etc, runs fine above idle, infact very good with good acceleration....especially since ive replaced coils.
Cable's fine. Like I say, the filter is here waiting to go on when I have time. I hope that solves it!!

 

[sproggy]

I would expect a compromised filter to have little to no impact at low revs and only impact higher revs/loads where the demand for fuel is higher.

When you balanced the throttles did you do it only on the cable adjuster or did you balance first with the air bypass screws?

 

[Johny w]

I would expect a compromised filter to have little to no impact at low revs and only impact higher revs/loads where the demand for fuel is higher.

When you balanced the throttles did you do it only on the cable adjuster or did you balance first with the air bypass screws?

Air screws first, with slack in the the cables, then took it up to 2000rpm and balanced with the cable adjusters.

 

[Johny w]

I'm sure I read that it's bad to remove a coil pack while it's running....until I'm sure wouldn't like to do it.
Although that's how I discovered it had a bad one last time.

 

[hops]

Today my bike stalled twice when coming to a stop......I've noticed a rough, uneven idle.......I've replaced all plugs with iridium ones and replaced both coil packs......I bought a new fuel filter before the trouble, but not fitted it yet.
I've balanced the injection and the tickover was good until today.
I've noticed a tappety sound, but seems to be coming from the alternator cover, more noticeable when I decelerate or low revs.
I'm not sure if this is linked to it idling poorly or cutting out.....any thoughts please?

I had a similar problem a few years ago and it ended being the flexi 'U' shaped pipe inside the tank on the fuel pump assembly. Externally it looked okay but when it was flexed it had loads of small cracks. As it is encased in the tank there are no visible leaks and as it is immersed in fuel constantly it needs to be a petrol resistant type so you can't use any old rubber hose. Might be worth checking that when you get round to doing the filter. This is much less likely to be the cause if it is fine at higher revs.

 

[Johny w]

I had a similar problem a few years ago and it ended being the flexi 'U' shaped pipe inside the tank on the fuel pump assembly. Externally it looked okay but when it was flexed it had loads of small cracks. As it is encased in the tank there are no visible leaks and as it is immersed in fuel constantly it needs to be a petrol resistant type so you can't use any old rubber hose. Might be worth checking that when you get round to doing the filter. This is much less likely to be the cause if it is fine at higher revs.

I will thanks

 

[Johny w]

How about the pump? What sort of issues could you expect if it was the pump?

 

[Riceburner]

Air screws first, with slack in the the cables, then took it up to 2000rpm and balanced with the cable adjusters.

I tend to do the cable balance at about 4k, to make sure it's just the cable balance that I'm analysing.

 

[Riceburner]

I had a similar problem a few years ago and it ended being the flexi 'U' shaped pipe inside the tank on the fuel pump assembly. Externally it looked okay but when it was flexed it had loads of small cracks. As it is encased in the tank there are no visible leaks and as it is immersed in fuel constantly it needs to be a petrol resistant type so you can't use any old rubber hose. Might be worth checking that when you get round to doing the filter. This is much less likely to be the cause if it is fine at higher revs.

I did this recently.

I'd recommend using the OE part because it's a 180 degree bend and if you use a piece of straight house, you risk it kinking flat in the middle of the bend. The OE part is pre-bent to prevent that.

 

[sproggy]

I tend to do the cable balance at about 4k, to make sure it's just the cable balance that I'm analysing.

I subscribe to the theory that the more open the throttle butterflies are the less impact (percentage-wise) a slight imbalance will have on the measured vacuum. So you may not identify an imbalance at 4k that is measurable at 2k. I therefore measure and adjust balance at no more than 2k before checking that at higher revs everything is still good. Whether it makes any difference vs balancing at 4k I have no idea!

 

[Steptoe]

.I've replaced all plugs with iridium ones and replaced both coil packs......

Both ??? There are four coil packs

 

[Steptoe]

I'm sure I read that it's bad to remove a coil pack while it's running....until I'm sure wouldn't like to do it.
Although that's how I discovered it had a bad one last time.

Don’t remove them. Just unplug the connector where it plugs in at the coil