2004 R1150 RT twin spark - no power, no lights, battery full charged

[colesyboy]

Hi all,

Rode it last about 6 weeks ago. Tuned it on today, no lights or sign of life. Clock on, but that eventually turned off also. Battery fully charged. Fuses all seem to be ok.

I've no idea where to look next, help!

Thanks,
Brian

 

[hops]

Hi all,

Rode it last about 6 weeks ago. Tuned it on today, no lights or sign of life. Clock on, but that eventually turned off also. Battery fully charged. Fuses all seem to be ok.

I've no idea where to look next, help!

Thanks,
Brian

Give the wires beneath the ignition barrel a visual inspection & wiggle. You may need to peel back the outer sheath to get a good view. If the harness is cable-tied to the frame it can cause the wires to fray and break over time. There is info on here how to remove the base section that the wires attach to if necessary.

 

[Steptoe]

How are you measuring the battery voltage ?

 

[DrFarkoff]

Tuned it on today, no lights or sign of life. Clock on, but that eventually turned off also. Battery fully charged. Fuses all seem to be ok.

I suspect that the battery is Naff

"BUT" Take off the side panels and the tank and try an Extra earth cable

If no change Take the battery out and charge it properly and get it to an auto shop to do a load test

The clock draws nothing Fuse 3 if I recall correctly

If you had dash lights but nothing else I would think maybe load relief relay but that only kills the dipped beam and non essentials for starting

Fuel Pump Ignition and starter motor should all work

So Bad Battery connections Bad earth Bad Battery would be my first checks

BE aware just because and LCD voltmeter says 12.5 volts That is ZERO inidcation of capacity or ability to supply Amps to the starter or other circuits

Clock is independent of the Ignition Loom

 

[colesyboy]

Give the wires beneath the ignition barrel a visual inspection & wiggle. You may need to peel back the outer sheath to get a good view. If the harness is cable-tied to the frame it can cause the wires to fray and break over time. There is info on here how to remove the base section that the wires attach to if necessary.

Thank you I’ll try that

 

[colesyboy]

I suspect that the battery is Naff

"BUT" Take off the side panels and the tank and try an Extra earth cable

If no change Take the battery out and charge it properly and get it to an auto shop to do a load test

The clock draws nothing Fuse 3 if I recall correctly

If you had dash lights but nothing else I would think maybe load relief relay but that only kills the dipped beam and non essentials for starting

Fuel Pump Ignition and starter motor should all work

So Bad Battery connections Bad earth Bad Battery would be my first checks

BE aware just because and LCD voltmeter says 12.5 volts That is ZERO inidcation of capacity or ability to supply Amps to the starter or other circuits

Clock is independent of the Ignition Loom

Thank you! I’ll dig into all this yes the volts show 12.6 on voltmeter. I’m trying an extra earth cable - can you explain more that to a dunce like me please?

 

[colesyboy]

How are you measuring the battery voltage ?

Hey Neil - good to hear from you I’m just using a regular domestic voltmeter

 

[DrFarkoff]

Thank you! I’ll dig into all this yes the volts show 12.6 on voltmeter. I’m trying an extra earth cable - can you explain more that to a dunce like me please?

The first check is to remove, clean and retighten the battery connections, I had this one on my 90,000 Mile RT and had to push it home from half a mile away The connection appeared tight but had an oxide between the Cable parts. Once removed and cleaned It all sprang to life as soon as I touched the jumper around the two parts of the connection before I even connected the other end! To be honest I scared the schite out of myself, as I had never seen that happen before

The earth cable goes to a point below the battery box on the top of the engine

I have seen them corrode badly and even nearly corrode through

If you connect from the battery negative to a clean frame part or more usually I hold it to a clean part of the exhaust and all of a sudden it springs into life when you turn on the key and hit the button Then there is a good chance that the earth is corroded and high resistance it is needed to complete the circuit

 

[Riceburner]

Don't forget: once the battery is reconnected, turn ignition on, DO NOT PRESS START BUTTON, but twist the throttle twice to the full extent of it's movement, THEN try to start it. This is needed to reset the Motronic's record of where the throttle's start and stop positions are.

 

[colesyboy]

Great, thanks all, its a sunny week in Denmark this week so I'm going to take all your good advice here and have a crack at it, will come back here.

 

[Steptoe]

Don't forget: once the battery is reconnected, turn ignition on, DO NOT PRESS START BUTTON, but twist the throttle twice to the full extent of it's movement, THEN try to start it. This is needed to reset the Motronic's record of where the throttle's start and stop positions are.

It’s not really needed, but it is simple to do, it does resets itself as you ride the bike.

 

[colesyboy]

Thanks again everyone, battery was dead even though the meter gave me 12.6 reading….so was it the force of the electricity not powering it through or something….i never paid enough attention at skool.