2004 R1150RT twin spark cylinder head replacement

[Swell]

Afternoon,
Went to change the exhaust studs on my RT as they were looking shabby. What a nightmare, absolutely rotted away and impossible to remove. I tried everything to get the studs out of the RHS but ended up damaging the head in the process. I managed to secure two replacement heads from The Netherlands (Baboon motorcycles parts Heerenveen have brilliant stock for all BMWs), however they too had the studs still in them and they wouldn’t budge. I found a local Spark Erosion practitioner (Southern EDM, outstanding service) who very neatly removed the studs with their magic machines. The replacement heads with their sparkling new stainless studs are ready to be fitted but, I don’t know if the valves are in their correct positions. When I removed the RHS, I marked and locked the cam chain to the sprocket with that cylinder at TDC and all the rockers loose. The replacement for that side has all the valves closed but only the intake valves rockers are loose. Could it be that the exhaust valves are tight or is the valve gear in the wrong part of the cycle? The cam has some rotational play in it which indicates it’s not under any tension.
I’m sure there’s a simple explanation but, after all the expense, time and effort I’d hate to destroy the head on start up as it’s out of time.
Any assistance greatly appreciated

 

[theoneandonly]

Download BMW R 1150 RT Repair Manual | ManualsLib

www.manualslib.com

that should tell you everything you need to know. ^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[davegs]

One begs to ask why you did not just take the original heads to your spark man?.

 

[Swell]

One begs to ask why you did not just take the original heads to your spark man?.

I had no idea such a thing existed, I only found out about it after talking to Motorworks who gave the advice.

 

[Steptoe]

Turn the cam so the slot aligns with the pin on the camshaft sprocket.

 

[Swell]

Turn the cam so the slot aligns with the pin on the camshaft sprocket.

thanks Steptoe, I did see reference to that somewhere but can’t remember where. I think it said the indent on cam should be pointing down and the corresponding lug on the sprocket should lock in.

 

[Steptoe]

thanks Steptoe, I did see reference to that somewhere but can’t remember where. I think it said the indent on cam should be pointing down and the corresponding lug on the sprocket should lock in.

If the sprocket was removed when the engine was at TDC then move the indent on the head to align with lug on the sprocket - one piston would be at tdc on the compression stroke, the other on the exhaust stroke, so turn the cams to match

 

[Swell]

If the sprocket was removed when the engine was at TDC then move the indent on the head to align with lug on the sprocket - one piston would be at tdc on the compression stroke, the other on the exhaust stroke, so turn the cams to match

I did set it at TDC and then lock wired the sprocket to the chain and, marked it with white pen to be absolutely sure. The exhaust valve clearances must be out as there’s zero play on them but a little on the intake side. I’ll get it nipped up and cycle it through a few times to see if the valves loosen a touch then I’ll get to work on the LH head. Thanks again, much appreciated.