2008 GSA clutch change progress - pressure plate crazing query

andeebee

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Made slow progress with the slipping clutch investigation, however managed to split the bike this afternoon -

32285513191_a878efa5b8_z.jpg


32285513831_33a6a8c410_z.jpg


Output shaft spline shot for those who are interested in such things - dry as a bone...

31563475964_08687ab389_z.jpg


Normal surface rust greeted me. No sign of oil contamination (background patches are from the wd40 I used to get the bike apart)

32285513541_9d2f3a0914_z.jpg


Finally get the friction disc off and looks like its had its day. Measures just under 4mm... Pictured next to new one.

32285513271_710d0e3df9_z.jpg


My question is regarding the pressure plate. There appears to be some crazing on the plate at 11 oclock and 3 oclock in the next image. Is this plate now buggered? Could it be saved? Is it OK?

31563475794_a4f6e49540_z.jpg
 
The rust is fairly normal,
Check the splines for wear.
If the springs on the pressure plate look good it will probably be ok.
Take a sanding wheel to it and get rid of the sheen.
I have a pressure plate out of a 05 in the workshop you you can have FOC + postage if it is better than yours.
 
Made slow progress with the slipping clutch investigation, however managed to split the bike this afternoon -

32285513191_a878efa5b8_z.jpg


32285513831_33a6a8c410_z.jpg


Output shaft spline shot for those who are interested in such things - dry as a bone...

31563475964_08687ab389_z.jpg


Normal surface rust greeted me. No sign of oil contamination (background patches are from the wd40 I used to get the bike apart)

32285513541_9d2f3a0914_z.jpg


Finally get the friction disc off and looks like its had its day. Measures just under 4mm... Pictured next to new one.

32285513271_710d0e3df9_z.jpg


My question is regarding the pressure plate. There appears to be some crazing on the plate at 11 oclock and 3 oclock in the next image. Is this plate now buggered? Could it be saved? Is it OK?

31563475794_a4f6e49540_z.jpg

IMHO crazing isn't good and for a proper job the PP would be better if it was renewed.
 
That horrified me seeing that! My clutch is slipping when I roll it on at speed. I bulk as I know I will inevitably splitting my bike in two like this soon!
 
I am inclined to bite the bullet and replace the whole Assembly.
Also found the heavy duty oil proof plates to last over twice as long as a standard plates when used on an instructors bikes.( a lot of town riding).
 
Thanks for offer of replacement Pat, although Motorworx site suggests pre 04/06 plates are different so I would require entire assembly and a different pushrod?

FATTMAT My clutch started like that and I managed to commute on it for the entire year until I could no longer overtake cars, which frustrated the hell out of me. It wasnt slipping all the time, but prolonging the change has probably contributed to the crazing/wear that is now evident IMO.

Slowly discovering why this bike is called an Adventure...:blast
 
Bit the bullet and ordered new complete clutch from Motorworks. I dont want to be stripping this bike down again to fix any other clutch problems.
All seals look good - whats the consensus - leave alone or swap out while its out?
 
Bit the bullet and ordered new complete clutch from Motorworks. I dont want to be stripping this bike down again to fix any other clutch problems.
All seals look good - whats the consensus - leave alone or swap out while its out?

IMO. while you are going to all this trouble You may as well swap them then it's job done :thumb2
 
My 2008 clutch pressure plate looked just like yours. I replaced the lot despite no oil contamination, minimal wear etc. The new clutch still slips when I give it the beans in top, that's a good way to waste the best part of £400. :blast
 
I think it's very clear where you are going wrong. You appear to be using the Star Wars manual instead of the Haynes workshop manual.

You should have noticed when the hyperdrive would not fit next to the crash bar.
 
Parts list so far includes some service stuff and some tools -

Clutch stuff
CLUTCH PUSHROD FELT STRIP 2.25
CLUTCH BOLT (6 REQD) 7.50
CLUTCH FRICTION PLATE (Siebenrock) 75.00
CASTROL MOLUB-ALLOY 9.25
R1200 clutch pressure plate & cover plate kit 325.00

Service stuff
SET OF 4 FEELER BLADES 9.50
SERVICE KIT ALL R1200 38.00
CASTROL Power 1* 4T 20w-50 26.00
CASTROL SYNTRAX 75w-90 GEAR OIL 12.35
OIL FILTER REMOVAL TOOL 7.50
Post 5.99
Post 7.50


Total so far 525.84
 
Change the crank and gearbox seals. If the box rattled in neutral it's also likely to need some internal work.

On mine there is no way to separate the wiring loom so rear end removal needs more work to strip off the seat base bodywork to access the wiring.

The rear frame is intended to unbolt at the bottom engine mounts and hinge up at the top mounts. Shock absorber to bolt and throttle body intake rubbers have to be disconnected.
 
Bliddy H
£400 for clutch parts. A Fiat Panda 100HP clutch kit including release bearing costs £60. The Fiat 1746 Punto HGT (130bhp) is only £90.


Sent using techie stuff
 
I think it's very clear where you are going wrong. You appear to be using the Star Wars manual instead of the Haynes workshop manual.

You should have noticed when the hyperdrive would not fit next to the crash bar.

Some of the sections said 'apply some force...' :rolleyes:
 
Me too. My gearbox is noisy in neutral so will need some work - or a low miles replacement. Money saved by keeping the pressure plate pays for the new box.
 
I have to tackle this job on my 09 adventure. Had to replace my alternator at the weekend after it decided to burst. Not looking forward to splitting bike in two.
 


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