2009 1200GS start issue

Diamshill

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Hi all, I am relatively new here and have an issue with starting my 2009 1200GS (K25). I commute on the bike daily and this morning I stopped to refuel; after filling up, the bike turned over but failed to start. Pressing the starter button a second time didn't do anything; no starter motor activity, no dimming or flickering of the dash display, no clicking of the starter motor. Pressing the starter button now only gives a single click somewhere near the front of the bike but I can't pinpoint where exactly. Bike is showing green neutral light, on centre stand with side stand up, same symptoms with clutch pulled in. If the starter relay is underneath the seat then its not that. I have replaced the battery in the key fob, disconnected the bike battery for about 15 minutes, tried a jump power pack, all to no avail. There are no error messages on the display either.
I started pushing the bike home and actually managed to jump start it going downhill, so I think this suggests it isn't a key fob or immobiliser issue.
At home I ran GS-911 diagnostics & tests; I'll post reports tomorrow as I need to re-run the diagnostics and save the files...
The GS-911 initiated the fuel pump, also didn't show any issues with the gear selections, clutch or side stand switches.
I do have an EZ-CAN fitted, though diagnostics didn't show any issues with it. The same problem is present with the EZ-CAN disconnected.
Clutch hydraulics were recently bled, however the clutch issue of not always disengaging doesn't appear to have been resolved.
Starter relay (found underneath the ECU under the tank) & battery replaced.
I searched through starting issues on this forum but couldn't find anything matching these symptoms. A similar post was from Michaelwhy found here, though there are similarities, this one hasn't been modified in any way. Also, testing the starter button via the relay is not possible given its accessibility.
Ian J Hartley

Post in thread 'Won’t crank off the button'

Reading your symptoms, As you say you have a neutral light and the pump primes, then the bike thinks it’s in neutral, so my money would be on either the button or the starter relay.

The relay clicking when you operate the kill switch sounds like the motronic relay.

Pulling the clutch in would only work if the clutch microswitch was serviceable.

Putting your finger on the starter relay when you press the start button should tell you if the relay is being powered or not

You can test for the button power at the relay. You can also jump across the relay contacts.

I posted how to check the...
I'm heading for the start button now, but unsure how to test it.

Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks
 
I would suspect the starter motor itself - maybe the solenoid. To check, you can get a screwdriver across the positive terminal on the starter motor and the metal tang on the solenoid? On mine the positive cable is protected with a plastic cover which just pulls off and if you remove the small black connector which just pulls off the tang you can jump it.
 
It could be an ECU fault

I had one that I ended up swapping in my Bikes ECU But covering the original bikes Key in Foil and putting my own key by the ring it worked perfectly

I actually ended up fitting a hidden push button for the guy because he did not want to buy another ECU

So if it did not send the signal from the ECU "on Occasion" as it would, he had the push button to jump the solenoid and engage the starter and I believe he is still using that

Put a test light between the small black wire on the spade terminal and a good ground and press the starter Does the bulb light every time with the ignition on ? If it lights when you press the starter button with the ignition on??

The starter is likely faulty
 
My starter motor started to play up around 70,000 miles (2010 GSA). Would not start when hot, but after letting the engine cool down a bit, it would start. A new starter motor sorted it.
 
As per post 2, see what happens if you short the terminals
 
seahorse said:
As per post 2, see what happens if you short the terminals
Click to expand...

Try this before trying any of the other suggestions .
It’s the easiest test, requires no tank removal or any test instruments, and takes one minute ..
Remove starter motor cover ( if fitted), one screw holds it in place -
With your jump leads, battery pack/slave battery, attach the battery to earth and the live terminal to the big brass live nut on the starter motor .. the starter should turn over.
If it doesn’t, the starter motor is the problem
 
Diamshill said:
Hi all, I am relatively new here and have an issue with starting my 2009 1200GS (K25). I commute on the bike daily and this morning I stopped to refuel; after filling up, the bike turned over but failed to start. Pressing the starter button a second time didn't do anything; no starter motor activity, no dimming or flickering of the dash display, no clicking of the starter motor. Pressing the starter button now only gives a single click somewhere near the front of the bike
Click to expand...

edit - oh missed it allegedly cranked first round



otherwise, that's all 100% normal with a worn out battery - most modern stuff magically senses the grunt isn't up the job so makes no effort to even try

you'll never get a slow crank or dimming lights just nothing bothers to make an effort

my KTM 1290 was exactly the same
 
Thanks all for the quick responses :DD It is the starter solenoid... the bike is pretty much dismantled anyway (damn relay) so I decided to remove the starter before testing. Bypassing the solenoid, it fired up straight away. I had expected a different symptom with a defective starter so didn't think of it.
Lesson learnt... fault find the easiest before a complete strip down!

New solenoid ordered and hoping to be back on the road by the end of the week :beerjug:
 
Last edited:
Diamshill said:
Thanks all for the quick responses :DD It is the starter solenoid... the bike is pretty much dismantled anyway (damn relay) so I decided to remove the starter before testing. Bypassing the solenoid, it fired up straight away. I had expected a different symptom with a defective starter so didn't think of it.
Lesson learnt... fault find the easiest before a complete strip down!

New solenoid ordered and hoping to be back on the road by the end of the week :beerjug:
Click to expand...
Just before you get too elated If you look up above in my reply

Are you getting the power feed to the solenoid when the Starter button is pressed ??

If the test BULB (preferably not an LED) lights Then yes its likely the starter solenoid

As I said I have come across a few bikes that would not send the power to feed the solenoid "Occasionally" but other worked fine
 
DrFarkoff said:
Just before you get too elated If you look up above in my reply

Are you getting the power feed to the solenoid when the Starter button is pressed ??

If the test BULB (preferably not an LED) lights Then yes its likely the starter solenoid

As I said I have come across a few bikes that would not send the power to feed the solenoid "Occasionally" but other worked fine
Click to expand...
I didn't test with a bulb, but I connected a multi-meter which gave me a feed of around 11.5v; I believe I tested correctly... I'll set up a bulb test tomorrow morning though still hopeful its the solenoid
 
Last edited:
Diamshill said:
I didn't test with a bulb, but I connected a multi-meter which gave me a feed of around 11.5v; I believe I tested correctly... I'll set up a bulb test tomorrow morning though still hopeful its the solenoid
Click to expand...
It likely will be,

I watch a fella called DiagnoseDan on Your Tube and he did a great demo of why to use a bulb to test a circuit rather than an LED or Multimeter

basically the LED or Multimeter draw Milliamps of current to show values or "light"

So you may have what looks like 12 volts until you try an Incandescent bulb, which will not light as the current it needs exceed what corrosion faulty connection will permit to pass
 
Diamshill said:
Thanks all for the quick responses :DD It is the starter solenoid... the bike is pretty much dismantled anyway (damn relay) so I decided to remove the starter before testing. Bypassing the solenoid, it fired up straight away. I had expected a different symptom with a defective starter so didn't think of it.
Lesson learnt... fault find the easiest before a complete strip down!

New solenoid ordered and hoping to be back on the road by the end of the week :beerjug:
Click to expand...
Interesting, where did you get the solenoid from?

i looked for my 06 hexhead, and it was a complete unit only
 
Santa-2512 said:
Interesting, where did you get the solenoid from?

i looked for my 06 hexhead, and it was a complete unit only
Click to expand...
Ordered a whole unit (starter + solenoid) from Motorworks. I searched for the solenoid itself but opted for the full unit. Its a 2009 bike which is quite weathered (alternator fell apart with deterioration 2 years ago...) and I'm assuming the starter is the original. With 81k on the clock I don't think I can go wrong with renewing the starter too.
 
THere are 3 starters that will fit

Valeo - long body
Bosch - Short body
Bosch - Long body

The units supplied new now are the short body, to fit between the bellhousing and the flappy valve controller

There is no cover fitted to the short body motor if i recall,

The long body motor will fit (tight squeeze) but the cover will not fit

Arrow do an aftermarket unit, which has a higher cranking capacity if i recall
 
DrFarkoff said:
It likely will be,

I watch a fella called DiagnoseDan on Your Tube and he did a great demo of why to use a bulb to test a circuit rather than an LED or Multimeter

basically the LED or Multimeter draw Milliamps of current to show values or "light"

So you may have what looks like 12 volts until you try an Incandescent bulb, which will not light as the current it needs exceed what corrosion faulty connection will permit to pass
Click to expand...
Been watching his videos to find his demo. Not had a chance to bulb test yet
 
I've gone for the Valeo starter; mainly as this is a known brand. I'll get it exchanged if there are issues with it. Motorworks know me and generally get in touch if my parts won't fit
 
Thank you for such a pertinent thread.

Last Friday - 200 miles from home - my RS12 refused to start for the 2nd start of the day.

On a cold sunny morning (in Skye) it fired up first time as usual. “As Usual” means 10 years and 56K miles.

Stopped to take photo, then just a few clicks. No-Go.

A rescue man arrived an hour later. Then the bugger (bike) decided to start. He jokingly suggested “it’s warmed up”. His battery testing black box told him the battery is in good condition.

I was feeling nervous as I set off for home on an almost full tank. Non stop for 4.1/2 hours and 200+ miles to my door. Big sigh of relief.

The information above will hopefully lead me to a solution to recover confidence in my trusty steed.

ps - Step 1, the battery is reading 13.89V.

Step 2 - check all connections as per above info.

IMG_6959.jpeg
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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