Cold start issue

garry a

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sandridge st albans england
Hi my 2002 single spark has developed a starting issue ,it now cranks over a few times before firing,once started it starts normally, I can hear the fuel pump priming and sounds normal also I’ve noticed that it now starts when in gear with clutch out but I’m not sure if it should, The neutral lamp is working. Also should it start with side stand down or just stop engine when put in gear ?. I’ve had tank of recently everything looks ok cables seated etc. any ideas.
 
Hi my 2002 single spark has developed a starting issue ,it now cranks over a few times before firing,once started it starts normally, I can hear the fuel pump priming and sounds normal also I’ve noticed that it now starts when in gear with clutch out but I’m not sure if it should, The neutral lamp is working. Also should it start with side stand down or just stop engine when put in gear ?. I’ve had tank of recently everything looks ok cables seated etc. any ideas.
I have now resolved the issues with side stand switch and clutch lever switch but still have the starting from cold problem. Would a split in fuel pipe in tank cause this if I prime the system a few times with key it starts easy.
 
What is the actual problem ?
You say it turns over a few time before starting when cold, and once it’s been started it starts normally ..

My 1150RT and 1150R do exactly same, have done for years.
 
What is the actual problem ?
You say it turns over a few time before starting when cold, and once it’s been started it starts normally ..

My 1150RT and 1150R do exactly same, have done for years.
Hi it cranks over but does not start when cold. If I turn off with key and on again a few times I can hear the pump priming then it will start. And then starts normally every time and rides normally.It was not doing this before I removed the tank
 
Hi it cranks over but does not start when cold. If I turn off with key and on again a few times I can hear the pump priming then it will start. And then starts normally every time and rides normally.It was not doing this before I removed the tank

More questions than answers ….
Why did you remove the tank ?
 
I removed the tank as the starter motor was turning slow and I thought it was the battery,but it was the magnet had became detached in the starter I had a spare starter so I fitted that. Everything was working as normal. Then when out on my first ride one of the quick release connections on fuel line popped off. I reconnected it and it ran fine. Then next time I started the bike it’s cranking over but does not fire till maybe 3rd try. It’s like it’s taking time to get fuel to injector’s or build pressure.
 
I’ve owned this bike 22 years and it has always started first press of the starter button it’s never had to crank over this long before starting from rest. Like I said once it’s been started it will start as normal every time until it’s left for a hour or two.
 
I have now checked the pipes in side the tank all ok. I changed the filter when I was at it. Only other thing I can think to try is the fuel pressure valve could this still regulate the pressure when running .but when standing allow pressure to drop so takes time for pump to pressure again ?
 
Yes I can hear the pump running when I turn on ignition. I pulled an injector out of one cylinder to see when it is spraying,and when I crank engine it takes about ten seconds before it starts spraying fuel. It does not spray fuel instantly.
 
go over all the electrical connecters , just break/inspect / spray /reconnect = costs nothing but time . they probably have never been apart since it was built .
plug gap ? injector connecters ?
1st connecter i would go to , under the tank , would be HES .
don't forget all the relays and fuses too.
 
Then when out on my first ride one of the quick release connections on fuel line popped off. I reconnected it and it ran fine. Then next time I started the bike it’s cranking over but does not fire till maybe 3rd try.
Re-check the QD connector, if its the type with integral shut-off valves it may be that one of the internal o-rings has started to break up.
 
I’m guessing the bike was starting fine until you changed the starter motor?

It might be that the replacement starter is drawing too much current and loading your system reducing the voltage left from the battery to give the ignition circuit the full voltage it seeks. This might appear as a sluggish start. Once warm the engine will spin faster unloading the starter motor giving more voltage to the ignition system.

Make sure the starter motor connections are clean and tight. It’s grounded through the case. The small black wire should also be checked for sound connection and free from corrosion.

Does the bike spin over as fast as the previous starter?
What’s the history on the replacement Starter (used, serviced, new)?
Battery condition/age. ?
Try using a jump pack or slave battery on next cold start to see if things improve.

Reference the fuel pressure regulator. The pump pressure should be higher than the pressure regulator so that it can work effectively to bypass excess fuel back to the tank maintaining a constant pressure in the fuel rail. Disconnect the fuel return line, This will pressure the fuel rail at pump pressure which will be the maximum. See if there is any change particularly in the time it takes for fuel to come from the injectors.
 
Had a chance to get back on problem today and when I took electrical connectors off the injectors to check for pulse they were both fully green like they had been full of salt water for months.I cleaned everything up and now everything seams back to normal starting easily. Very weird as once running it was fine didn’t miss a beat. We will see if that was problem. Thanks everyone for help and suggestions.
 


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