2011 R1200GSA struggling to accelerate at high rpm problem!!

So fuel pump in fuel with controller so running at full tilt.

No leaks but fuel squirting out of the "pressure release valve" on top of actual fuel pump?
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So you don`t actually know what the fuel pressure is.
I did not notice a vent on the top of my pump , mine was a different make ( cheepo of ebay)
After I compromised my filter I fitted an inline ( Bosh for a Golf GTi) filter.
I mounted it just behind the steering top bearing. Mine is a GS not sure on how much room there is on a GSA.
I can at least change the filter as a service item. ( what a weird idea).
 
I explained how to set up and test the fuel pressure in post # 34.
The regulator is a mechanical fixed pressure device 4 bar on a TC and 3.5 bar hexhead. But anything can develop a fault. The pressure of my pattern pump when connected to a battery was 120 psi with the return from the regulator capped.
With 60 psi fuel pressure it does not take much of a split to loose pressure.
I fitted the gauge as it was a cheap and easy way to keep an eye on things. I was loosing top end power, fitted my innovate LM2 and it was recording an AFR of 18 to 1 on full throttle on both cylinders. so checked the fuel pressure at full throttle 30 psi.
If I had carried on without sorting it, it would have been bye bye exhaust valves.
Sir, ran a pressure gauge straight from pump outlet and I'm getting 130psi

Will try now with fuel controller mounted

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I explained how to set up and test the fuel pressure in post # 34.
The regulator is a mechanical fixed pressure device 4 bar on a TC and 3.5 bar hexhead. But anything can develop a fault. The pressure of my pattern pump when connected to a battery was 120 psi with the return from the regulator capped.
With 60 psi fuel pressure it does not take much of a split to loose pressure.
I fitted the gauge as it was a cheap and easy way to keep an eye on things. I was loosing top end power, fitted my innovate LM2 and it was recording an AFR of 18 to 1 on full throttle on both cylinders. so checked the fuel pressure at full throttle 30 psi.
If I had carried on without sorting it, it would have been bye bye exhaust valves.
Damn its, pressure is fine as shows fuel pump is working I'm assuming but doesnt say that flow is correct through the filter?

So would only be able to check with one on the bike at high rpm....

Least I ruled out the pump itself

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130 psi from the pump without controller fitted sounds good.
With the controller fitted I think you will find it drops a little.
I think that the controller is a current sensing device, but that is just my thoughts.
 
130 psi from the pump without controller fitted sounds good.
With the controller fitted I think you will find it drops a little.
I think that the controller is a current sensing device, but that is just my thoughts.
So I'm assuming pump is providing required pressure but actual flow rate is being diminished by something causing fuel starvation when bike needs it most.

- So theres no leaks from hoses or housing
- pressure is ok
- fuel controller works

Leaves the filter being partially blocked then, $$$$$$

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I would put a T piece in the pipe just after the pump and run a pipe to your gauge to check it is holding 60 psi at full throttle on the road.
The regulator will hold the pressure at 60 psi and bleed of the excess pressure to the return.
 
I would put a T piece in the pipe just after the pump and run a pipe to your gauge to check it is holding 60 psi at full throttle on the road.
The regulator will hold the pressure at 60 psi and bleed of the excess pressure to the return.

Just did a flow test from the return line on right side of tank.
Idling in 30sec it flowed 570ml of fuel?

I will try rig the pressure gauge up now
 
I would put a T piece in the pipe just after the pump and run a pipe to your gauge to check it is holding 60 psi at full throttle on the road.
The regulator will hold the pressure at 60 psi and bleed of the excess pressure to the return.
Sir, 60psi at idle and cruising to the motorway.

Motorway at speeds it drops to 54/55



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Sounds a touch low but the fuel trims in closed loop should cope with that and the long term trims will learn from the short term trims.
 
Sounds a touch low but the fuel trims in closed loop should cope with that and the long term trims will learn from the short term trims.

Ok, any advice on what I should be replacing then?

Possibly still fuel restriction?

On a side note if I have ridden the bike for a while..say 40min or so it seems to get better as if the bike has adapted and learnt my style. However next day it forgets and then first hour or so its poor then it wakes up. Just remembering this fact as haven't ridden it for a lengthy time in weeks.

I even emailed rapid bike as it felt like my adapted map was resetting itself after each ride...no luck there.

Anyways
 
it doesn't adapt to a rider.... it adapts to manu tolerances at build, wear & tear, and around some sensor info being a little interesting
 
it doesn't adapt to a rider.... it adapts to manu tolerances at build, wear & tear, and around some sensor info being a little interesting

Yeah was just an example as that's how it feels.

Does get better after an hour.

Looking at 350£ for a new filter/housing.

But comes with a new pump so that's a win
 
BMW mechanic has told me t book it in and put it on diagnostic as the filters dont fail and he thinks its a wiring issue.

So do i take it to alton bmw/vines and spend 100s on diagnostics,

buy used housing from motorworks for 75

new for 350
 
BMW mechanic has told me t book it in and put it on diagnostic as the filters dont fail and he thinks its a wiring issue.

So do i take it to alton bmw/vines and spend 100s on diagnostics,

buy used housing from motorworks for 75

new for 350

Is this the same BMW mechanic that told you that there were cam chain issues
 


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