2610-hardwired or switched

Racer

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Which is the best, to hardwire the 2610 power lead to the battery - so that the unit can potentially be on all the time, or, use a switched ignition feed. My Autocom is on a switched ignition feed.
What are the experienced fores and against of both ?

Cheers,

Racer.
 
When I had an 1150 I took the power off the accessory socket. This means it's still fused, but you have the option of turning the 2610 on / off independant of the ignition. An easy way is to get one of the BMW cables that they supply to double up the sockets and then either splice the Garmin leads in or just have the "spare" socket under the tank and put one of the powerlet etc etc plugs on the garmin lead and plug that into the spare socket.

BTW did you stop in the Hotel Eloi in Salignac? Top place.
 
I'd definitely go for the switched option.

My NavII's power plug has started to corrode away because the power's on 24/7. If it was switched off when the power went off I'm convinced the corrosion would be minimal.

This also happened, in a more minor way, on the plug fitted to my SPIII, but the plug was of a design which made it less critical and, almost, self cleaning. Unfortunately, due to the different design of the NavII/2610 plug, the power supply contact will fail quite quickly (it's a sprung contact), rendering the unit useless. I'm hoping to get a warranty lead and re-wire it - probably from the lighting circuit.

Separately fuse the power supply.

Mike:)
 
got mine hard wired to the battery terminals. i put a waterproof blade fuse holder in + line, accessible by removing the seat.

when it's not being used for extended periods [mostly] i just take the fuse out.

dead simple & works for me. i certainly would not have it switched with the ignition.
 
Well, thanks for that so far - Cookie, why wouldn't you have the switched option ?, is this because you would need the ignition on all the time while editing routes etc - or some other reason ?

I like the idea of the removeable fuse to isolate the supply up to the power lead head - slightly concerned that the terminals have corroded so quickly !

Racer.
 
John Armstrong said:
When I had an 1150 I took the power off the accessory socket. This means it's still fused, but you have the option of turning the 2610 on / off independant of the ignition.

BTW did you stop in the Hotel Eloi in Salignac? Top place.

Cheers John, the accessory socket option is one I have considered, but as I seem to be forever de-gunging it I have dismissed it as too high maintanence.

I have not stopped at a hotel in Salignac - only a Gite near Souliac - maybe thinking of someone else.

Cheers ears,

Racer.
 
Racer said:
Well, thanks for that so far - Cookie, why wouldn't you have the switched option ?, is this because you would need the ignition on all the time while editing routes etc - or some other reason ?

I like the idea of the removeable fuse to isolate the supply up to the power lead head - slightly concerned that the terminals have corroded so quickly !

Racer.

i wouldn't want to wait while it booted up every time i get petrol etc.
while i can see it, i leave it switched on, otherwise i stick it in my pocket.

i can put the unit on the bike & mess around with routes etc. without having the ignition powered up & lights blinking at me.

i think you'll get some corrosion whatever. silicone grease is your friend here.

it's also easy to lead swap between bikes if it's kept simple.
 
Racer - If you get a double accessory socket then you can, as I did, put the "spare" one up in the tank area, where it's away from most of the crud and won't get booted all the time. It's not hard to route the lead up from the starter motor area to the tank area.

HTH.
 
I'm with cookie on this.

No switch, just a fuse, but hard-wired and permanently live.

Simply clip on the plastic cap that the lead was supplied with when not in use! That way it's insulated and keeps the road crap and water out.

Greg
 
Mine is hard wired with no switch but has a wp fuse in line:D
 
Cheers everyone, decision made.
I am going to hardwire it with a removeable fuse and use the clip as a weather guard.

How long before I get bored rearranging the RAM mount for the "optimum" position ? :D

Racer.
 
Mine is hard wired as well, direct from the battery.

Yes the pins inside the SPIII plug go green but as they are are copper plated they will do, with or without a permanent supply.

But nothing that a shot of WD40 can't sort out anyway;)

As for keep readjusting the RAM mount, I just remove the unit from the cradle and leave the RAM mount on the bike all the time.

BTBR
 


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