2610 voice Autocom

[The Bean Machine]

Connected up my 2610 to autocom using the garmin power lead and autocom audio lead but getting intermitant voice, played with the wire but cant quite find where the cause is. Is this common? did find the audio connection a bit odd, cable tied it the to hold it firm but still on and off.

 

[John Armstrong]

When I had a similar problem it was the connector between the Garmin lead and the autocom wasn't in far enough. It takes a real push in and shouldn't fall out easily. HTH.

 

[EURTRAF]

Bean Machine.

I think you will find it is the female connector on the Garmin lead that is at fault.
Autocom recommend hard wiring their wire into the Garmin cable.
See the below thread.
(see 'No Voice propts after Instalation)

EURTRAF

 

[TorHarald]

I guess you are using a stereo-jack in the 2610, where you should be using a 2,5mm mono jack. You could try Autocom part no: 171, 2,5mm mono-3,5mm stereo - 2 meter interface Lead suits some GPS Radar.

I have the BWM Motorrad Navigator II and Autocom Active-7, but no oral instuctions yet. I thought I should se this optional Lead to hook ut the two gadgets.

Any comments.......

Cheers
Tor Harald

 

[TorHarald]

I guess you are using a stereo-jack in the 2610, where you should be using a 2,5mm mono jack. You could try Autocom part no: 171, 2,5mm mono-3,5mm stereo - 2 meter interface Lead suits some GPS Radar.

I have the BWM Motorrad Navigator II and Autocom Active-7, but no oral instuctions yet. I thought I should se this optional Lead to hook ut the two gadgets.

Any comments.......

Cheers
Tor Harald

I guess I am wrong with respect to the 2610, I do not know this GPS, but I hope to solve my problem with the Lead
cheers

 

[Grumpy Lee]

You are not alone, have a look at this thread:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42994

 

[The Bean Machine]

Thanks for the replies and info guy's sort of glad it wasn't just me. I note the cutting and soldering of the cables in the other thread and I think the brown and white audio wires are also at the other open end so I might even try connecting those. GPSW have said to send the cable back, now I'm in two minds if I get another lead that dosen't work.
Thanks again.

 

[Grumpy Lee]

Power / Audio cable for 2610

Ordered the cables about 26/04/2005 from GPSW, spoke to them again today and they still have no stock. They said they had spoken to Garmin and the cables should be at the end of this week or the beginning of next week.

(Glad I didn't take the iffy cables off my bike, at least I'll be able to see where I should be going!!!!!!!)

 

[Grumpy Lee]

Re: Power / Audio cable for 2610

Ordered the cables about 26/04/2005 from GPSW, spoke to them again today and they still have no stock. They said they had spoken to Garmin and the cables should be at the end of this week or the beginning of next week.

(Glad I didn't take the iffy cables off my bike, at least I'll be able to see where I should be going!!!!!!!)

After numerous phone calls (at least two a week), it now appears that Garmin now have the leads in stock, and so do GPSW and I have been told that they will be with me by noon tomorrow.

The first thing I shall be doing is connecting them up to a power pack and have a decent wiggle before even thinking of putting them on the bike.

Hopefully this will be a from better batch than last time!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Grumpy Lee]

I might have found the cause (and answer)

New cables arrived today, so I duly went out to test / play with them on the outfit.

Whilst getting things set up ready for testing, I must have jiggled the old wires differently from how I had been doing it before, and guess what - the bl**dy thing started working OK.

So while I am in a calmer state than I usually am when things don't go properly, I did some experimenting and discovered that although the jack plug is in the socket, there is a small amount of movement in and out with the plug/socket. In true Blue Peter style I cut up a cornflake packet and made a spacer (about half a mil thick) to go over the plug and lo and behold, no more movement twixt plug and socket.

Shake and beat the thing about, but no loss of sound at all. Then I had to stop as I had to go to work, bu**er!! So, tomorrow I will be making some spacers/washers whatever you want to call them, from anything I can find of the correct thickness and then doing some proper field testing (figuratively speaking).

I'll let you know the results.

 

[Grumpy Lee]

Cured - well maybe

Well after a bit of messing about with my home-made "spacers" (I won't bore you with all the trivia) I now have a plug and socket with no free play in their connectivity.

But as usual, there was not a lot of time left for final testing (although everything seemed to be OK) before I had to go off to work. So now (fingers crossed) all systems are go (well nearly - but that's another story).

So the answer seems to be to put a "spacer" on the plug so that it engages in the socket leaving no free play in and out - but not so much "spacer" that it won't engage.

Well it seems to have worked for me (so far )

 

[TorHarald]

BMW Motorrad Navigator II + Autocom works (sort of)

BMW Motorrad Navigator II + Autocom works (sort of)

Having bought the Autocom Active rider set, installed by Velcro tape on the right side of the air intake box of my R1200GS. And powered it by fused Direct Battery Connection (Part 158), and hooked up to the BMW MN II by cable cluster comprising Part no. 58 and Part no. 171 routing messages come through crisp and clear without soldering, BUT......

two noices appear as soon as the bipolar 2,5 jack is inserted in the Navigator; a high pitched (around 1000 Hz) noise and a low pitched HUM-like noice. Is rerouting of the cables and boxes the solution or is a noice suppression circuit more appropriate?