Mileage - 239kms
THE BISCUIT HAS OFFICIALLY LEFT THE TIN
Niks bike serviced, and recopvered by lunchtime after I gave him a lift in to Mendoza, poor lad suffered heart failure with three sets of disc pads costing £300, looks professionally done thuogh as even cleaned. Still no free coffee or donuts though.
Left our pad mid-day to leaden skies. For cost comparisons 34 litres of super costs £14, bythe way ! Didn't look good on the weather front, but in fact as we climbing into the mountains and followed e hidden natural pass towards Chilr thing improved markedly and blue skies and warm temporatures allowed stunning views of the surrounding peaks, particularly the snowy ones higher up.
Cacti and Mountains, our first ´closer´view from Uspallata valley
The plae of our return for the night was high ltitude (well comparatively) plateau and a great setting to return to. It was very reminisant of the Tinetian Plataue up in Ladakh.
The colours of the valley walls was excepional and I can see why the high praise for the route. Stunning. Only beingthere or seeing the pictures can portray the wonderous colours and hues and absract mixes of sahpe and form. For this reason lesswords than I'd use, and hopefully more pictures !
Stones and mountains, same place, windy as hell, not that you´d know from this
We reached just over 9000 Ft near the Chilean border by Puenta del Inca, which was hearalded as a stunning natural wonder but we were preety dissappointing. Compared to the mountains all around there was no comparison.
We spotted a Condor quite close, hundreds of metres away, but you could see the white colour and nose 'lumps' like a turkey has.
Saw where the folk walk in for Aconcagua, not sure if saw mountain itself.
It was weird how the cloud was all on Mendoza side, clear as bell in mountains, but very windy indeed in places.
Have to say today was the most stunning ride we have ever undertaken on our own bike. Bloody stunning.
Valley and road, you might see roadstretching away
A cyclist touring through gave us a big way, and we saw him on our return and shared big waves again. Now that's hardcore.
An odd final twist was when we saw a Harley Davidson Electroglide ride towards us and the rider gave a friendly wave. he turned and pulled in by our side,we met Craig Hutson on his way to Santiago for that night, wouldn't fancy hi journey over the mountains in the failing light, but he was obviously very experienced,on was to NZ.
Theee big other memory is the suicidal truckers, big artics barreling down the pass as if in sopts cars. Right across the wrong side of roads, slewwing and snaking on the brakes and taknig no prisoners. Bloody lunatics some of them. Quite scary, and these guys are safe compared to those in Peru apparently.
Road and bridge, mainly for the colours, beautiful
We arrived in own before dark, as it was cooling and got an apparment for same proice as a room at Los Condores. 86 pesos for three, with a room each. blew out on tea with two bottles of wine. Bev and Nik not too keen but your less fussy author well sated and what an excellent day !
A weird aside was the photo's of Brad Pitt on the wall....Seven Years in Tibet was filmed here.
Thursday 1st December
Uspallata to Los Mollos
Mileage - 416 kms
SAND AND THERMAL CLEANSING
Managed to buy some water-pistols from a kids shop next door to the hotel. Lady bemused, we want them for soaking each other (well T-Sirts) when in the heat on the pampas. May only be 10 minutes cool reprise, but glorious while it lasts. Should bemuse people each time we stop too.
The ride back down the valley was of course gloroius and at least we saw the views the other way. The colours that were more drab on our way in were now in full technicolour with the sun shining from the other side.
Coloured sandstone in the valley walls on way back from Uspallata
The lunatic truckers were still on the prowl however leading to caution. Even allowing the extra caution nearly wasn't enough. Three trucks in a row, a bit of a striaght and I cange down and go, indicating, and the last truck suddenly does the same (well obviously without indicating or looking) If he had been but a second leter I'd have had no-where to go. A scary moment. Ironically, Nik had gaffer taped his camera to his bike and had filmed the episode ! Don't suppose we'll report his number of course.
Regaining the plains we spotted a dead five legged horse, rigamortice had set in and it was obvioulsy a stallion !
On the multi leg front a very narrowly missed running over a tarantula too, they're a bit too comon for my liking now, that's two in three or four days !
We made good progress and then reached the point were the tarmac road went in a bow to the east and south and them west, and unmade roads went due south.
Day four (or whatever) of our BMW off-road course was now to be undertaken. We didn't have to take the unmade road, but decided it would be practice for what was to come. This was our first genuign 'Repio' road. As I'v mentioned repio is unmade road, but that's no quite the case. It's just not hard surfaced. It's gravel, but not the fine stuff, it includes sand and grit and pebbels of various size.
Bikes and Repio, before the sand section, this bit great for 50mph (Cerro Diamante on right)
At first we were very cautious, but as we realised it was very level and compacted and was safe to ride on as long as you are light on the bars, clenched grip will see you off, you must left the bike wander gently....and saty away from the edge and any ridges of grit between wheel tracks. Generally the trails are as wide as roads, but efectively they are one way until another vehicle comes, so you have to watch for the best lines.
You'd be mistaken if you thought no-one uses these roads, they do. The epoymous 4x4s are made for it, but trucks and cars also appear...including two towing boats...hmmmm. But generally, if you were on your own and came a croper I don;t think you could rely on immediate rescue, could be five minutes, could an hour, or more.
So we were soon happy barreling along at 50mph without too much problem. The views to the right were quite spectatcular of the snow caps high above the otherwise enveloping clouds. But the problem is you can't look and ride, recipe for disaster. There were also a few lone hills - Cerro Diamante - stuck up like volcanoes, and occassional canyons off to our side.
We came across a damed gorge in seemingly the middle of nowhere. Lovely transluscent green water and obviously pretty newly built. From the downstreal side the view was amazing, the dam wall was concave, therfore we had been riding over thin air across the top.
So this construction had all taken place without one tarmac road for access, and presumably not many people get to wonder at the spectacal.
Through a tunnel and the repio climbed up the plains further before gaining the plateau.
Now the (not) fun started. The repio changed from well compaced sandy gravel to dusty sand. A very unpleasant experience when your front wheel starts to wanderwith it's own mind. literally slewing to either side. Bloody scary actually I have to say.
We have been doing very well on all surfaces to say the bike and luggage and us amounts to virtually half a ton. Thta's not the sort of weight you can right with a dab of your foot should the front or back step out. Likelyhood you'd snap something.
Anyway this truely was nighmare time. The first time it happens your heart stops, when it happens very frequently it is rather stressful in the extreme. Bev even had to dismount and walk for one section, and still the bike was slewing one way then the other completely out of control.
we had to persist with great caution. no point me standing on the pegs as with Bev behind me it was too unpredicatble, and far to dangerous to both stand up in these conditions. It's amazing how well the bike, and Bev of course, cope with all that's thrown at them. but sand was the limit, it just isn't possible to ride fully oaded two up and much more than walking pace.
The fact the sand is actually much worse, it's bull dust, doesn't help either. The only time the bike felt happy was in first gear at moderate revs, anything else and we were bogging or slewing sure to crash. With both of us and the weight crashing is not an option, too much likelyhood or injury.
Nik was able to stand and with the greatly reduced weight made better progress, though he had some mildy specatcular moments were I thought he was off.
Bythe end we'd covered 117kms of repio, of which 47kms sand, and that last bit had taken an inordinate amount of time. We were both preety exhausted by that stage and I certainly felt my mind had been pretty frazzled with the concentration.
The wind was behind us for most of the remainder of the route and we were heading staright for darkening skies and wondeful snowy peaks.
The last 20 kms here were a great twisty mountain road, with mixed conditions and the odd of rockfall.
When we arrived here I thought oh my god, it's a very small closed ski resort. There was one small hotel that had sighs of life outside, but looked like maintenace rather than anything else.
We were pretty knackered and feeling a bit desparate so Bev checked the door and it opened. Amazinglyit's a thermal hotel and for £10 each we get a room, Dinner bed and breakfast and a free dip in the thermal pools.
So, again, we had landed on our feet. No food sincebreakfast so hope dinner is good !
What better to free taught muscles, and remove the dust of miles of repio (you can imagine how dusty you get I'm sure) than t dip into a hot tub. Well that's over egging (excuse pun) it, but anyway. bev was tol by an elderly resident of how it worked and we joined her with our trunks and change of clothes.
We'd been advised to take 10 minutes of the 38 deg pool. So follows th prodeedure.
You have a changing area with slab and towel and the corridor down the middle of the room is actually different temperature 'pools' from around 35 to 42 with other changing rooms on other side.
The pools were actually likw very small flooded rooms 10 ft square with steps leading down to the rather smelly sulphorous waters below. The women thought we were mad all three going in one, but it seemed reasonable to us. two heads one end, one the other and we could all lie out and submerge or bodies. The water is very heavily salty too to add to the effect. It was pleasant in an old Soviet Sanitorium way and we enjoyed a laugh or two. After 10 minutes we were called out, back to our changing rooms, laid out on th slab on a sheet which then encased us and a blanket was placed on top. A further 10 elapsed in enforced relaxment which was very good.
Another shout and we towelled and changed - you leave the medicinal waters on.
All in all quite an experience, shame no pictures to prove it. If we end up staying longer we'll get evidence. plus I think we'd go hotter, the water was similar to noe of our baths at home...without the smells or salt.
Our tea has encouraged we should stay here a few days. At the pace we're moving (still too fast !) it would take three days to get to Bariloche, train overnight, and arrive for travellers meet.....but we have two weeks, however we spend the time its 14 night accommodation
Tea consisted of a nice home made tortia with salad followed by (asumed) goat stew. Lots of big lumps of meat on bone. Very tasty, with potatoes and vegtables. all locally made and delicious. a real family place with the most stunning of mountain views out front. It gives me pangs of wanting to be in Scotland right now and out ice climbing. The views are very reminisant of the Cairngorms in April or so. Not easily pleased eh. Food was finished off with fruit salad or flan. We also had a bottle of wine and beer. Nice family place so worth a few days distraction.
Friday 2nd December
Los Mollos - Las leñas and around
Mileage - 45 kms
We did indeed decide to stay for a few days and chill. it's a very nice area and worthy of some recuperation since we've been moving on for a whole two days since Mendoza.
Post breakfast, which like last nights tea involved the host asking if we wanted any more - how often do you get that question these days ? Nice to stay away from the faceless corporate chains.
It had turned from last nights leaden skies, getting used to the fact leaden skies here need not mean rain, to the standard glorious azure cloudless blue. Our mountain panorama was free of any cloak or vail pure unadulterated bliss.
Before I forget, the stars ! I'd popped out last night before bed to check the skies and was treated to a fine display. More bright stars than I think I've ever seen, not just loads of stars, they were brighter than the ones in the Northern hemisphere I'd swear. Also behind the hotel were two smudges in the sky I had taken for clouds, but as not moving I guess they are star nebula (might be wrong term) Some were familiar, though orion was not Orion, not ideal, no star gazer. But the stars are many and bright, first real opportunity to see them.
Anyway, we wanted to pop up to las Lenas for a nosey as it is Argentina's most chic ski resort, obviously not in summer though, but ski resorts are usually well presented and fairly high.
On way we passed the Pozo de la Animas, wailing pits, strange affairs. two deep circular pools virtually joined that are naturally formed. They were best part of 100 ft deep, wider than deep, and formed in sandy gravel so acute angeled and loose and wisely fenced - best phot's on inside obviously which is what people do (only another car there at time, tourist season not 'til Christmas really). The water at the bottom was turquoise green and very photogenic. There are so many beautiful things that we see and photograph that may not make it to the mails due to restriction using Yahoo...wish I'd paid for something else now, ways round it, but have to keep some secrets for our return !
Wailing pools of the Animals, apparently they do make weird sounds as wind passes over then, not while we were there
Anyway the pits get their name as the wind whistles eerily over them...apparently. No wind in morning, no sound, lots of wind on way back, and still no sounds.
Onwards through, what sadly really, I have to describe as 'the standard multicoloured hills, shales and rocks' of the route. But belive me there's no insult intended these valleys have beauty that defies description.
The ski resort was like a ski resort in summer, very quite, butnot too ugly, must be chic ! We got cash from an ATM, saw very very few folk except people getting ready for summer. in fact sprinklers outnumbered people. There was the Eidelweiss cafe though with it's cheerful and helpful owner. We had a drinking chocolate and sat in sun (more later) for a while.
I'd checked whether the road to the Valle Hermoso was open. Apperently not, only 10 of 25kms. We set out anyway and after a short while the tarmac ended and it was a typical hard stoney, pebbly, rocky trail. Soon after we were onto day 5 of the BMW off-road course, today, Stream and River crossings, and for the advanced snow !
River crossing using Vern's floatation aides ! Top panniers and excellent Hovercraft
Once we got into the swing the streams were easily crossed, took me back to India on the Enfields (organised tour) so nice to be doing on our own bike though. Slow entry, speeding up on way through and pop out the other side in one peice.
The scenery was sublime, and above 8500 ft so abov the snow line easily, in fact the road wqas carved through the drifts the higher we went.
Bev and Nik, bikes and snow cat
The BM stuck in snow, no side or main stand required ! Going no-where further, serious snow thereafter anyway, but you have to try don´t you (with a leaking master cyclinder ?)
Finally we reached a much broader stream, fast flowing and deeper in the middle, theobvious turn road point....or.
Taking my tank bag off with Bev able to walk around via a drift over the stream I calmed my butterflies and eased into the shallows, a short turn slightly upstream and more power and the water was over and in my boots and the bike powered out the other side. like many a crossing it was far easier than it looked. I'll go for gravelly mountain streams over muddy becks back home.
Nick, though 100% inexperienced in rivr crossing acquited himself with gusto as he dived like a submerging Polaris into the deep water and rose like a breaching whale onto the far side. Very wet, but very stylish. Need less to say as with everything on this trip all this was caught on digital still and movie clip, more for you to see on our return unless anyone is offering up free web space.
Not far past that, up muddy uncosolidated switch backs we passed the snow cat parked up and then a strecth of snow. Bev hoped off, I tried my best to ease forward and managed all of 10 ft before coming to rest with no need for a stand ! That was that then, but what an adventure.
I never mentioned before, remember the last few days have been the Andes from fast on road to hard off road, well, a confession. My front master cyclinder started to leak and so far I've topped it up and stuffed some toilet paper underneath to prevent the corrosive material getting on anything. Anyway it seems to be holding up, perhaps a Christmas break repair...best not to worry when you're undertaking these minor adventure I guess. Worry yeah not ! we're not.
So anyway we had to turn and return. Even though I tried to remember to keep a hat on I hadn't put cream on and look now like Father Christmas apparently.
Back to the cafe for a fixed meal of Spag Bol, and ice cream and a fizzy drink for all of £2 each.
Back towards hotel we took some goat herders tracks, well why not. They were quite hard work, and rough, but got high up into wonderful meadows of strong smelling wild sweet peas. then bv and I took another that ended at another goat herders hut that was for all the world like the Hindu Kush or similar. goats, dust, snowy peaks a brown melt water coursing down with occassional sounds of boulders being moved downstream.
Back to base, Lahuen Co Thermal Hotel, for a hotter tub, 40 this time and a relax. with a face like a beetroot before the hot tub not too sure how relaxing it really was. Well it was great of course, marvellous.
THE BISCUIT HAS OFFICIALLY LEFT THE TIN
Niks bike serviced, and recopvered by lunchtime after I gave him a lift in to Mendoza, poor lad suffered heart failure with three sets of disc pads costing £300, looks professionally done thuogh as even cleaned. Still no free coffee or donuts though.
Left our pad mid-day to leaden skies. For cost comparisons 34 litres of super costs £14, bythe way ! Didn't look good on the weather front, but in fact as we climbing into the mountains and followed e hidden natural pass towards Chilr thing improved markedly and blue skies and warm temporatures allowed stunning views of the surrounding peaks, particularly the snowy ones higher up.
Cacti and Mountains, our first ´closer´view from Uspallata valley
The plae of our return for the night was high ltitude (well comparatively) plateau and a great setting to return to. It was very reminisant of the Tinetian Plataue up in Ladakh.
The colours of the valley walls was excepional and I can see why the high praise for the route. Stunning. Only beingthere or seeing the pictures can portray the wonderous colours and hues and absract mixes of sahpe and form. For this reason lesswords than I'd use, and hopefully more pictures !
Stones and mountains, same place, windy as hell, not that you´d know from this
We reached just over 9000 Ft near the Chilean border by Puenta del Inca, which was hearalded as a stunning natural wonder but we were preety dissappointing. Compared to the mountains all around there was no comparison.
We spotted a Condor quite close, hundreds of metres away, but you could see the white colour and nose 'lumps' like a turkey has.
Saw where the folk walk in for Aconcagua, not sure if saw mountain itself.
It was weird how the cloud was all on Mendoza side, clear as bell in mountains, but very windy indeed in places.
Have to say today was the most stunning ride we have ever undertaken on our own bike. Bloody stunning.
Valley and road, you might see roadstretching away
A cyclist touring through gave us a big way, and we saw him on our return and shared big waves again. Now that's hardcore.
An odd final twist was when we saw a Harley Davidson Electroglide ride towards us and the rider gave a friendly wave. he turned and pulled in by our side,we met Craig Hutson on his way to Santiago for that night, wouldn't fancy hi journey over the mountains in the failing light, but he was obviously very experienced,on was to NZ.
Theee big other memory is the suicidal truckers, big artics barreling down the pass as if in sopts cars. Right across the wrong side of roads, slewwing and snaking on the brakes and taknig no prisoners. Bloody lunatics some of them. Quite scary, and these guys are safe compared to those in Peru apparently.
Road and bridge, mainly for the colours, beautiful
We arrived in own before dark, as it was cooling and got an apparment for same proice as a room at Los Condores. 86 pesos for three, with a room each. blew out on tea with two bottles of wine. Bev and Nik not too keen but your less fussy author well sated and what an excellent day !
A weird aside was the photo's of Brad Pitt on the wall....Seven Years in Tibet was filmed here.
Thursday 1st December
Uspallata to Los Mollos
Mileage - 416 kms
SAND AND THERMAL CLEANSING
Managed to buy some water-pistols from a kids shop next door to the hotel. Lady bemused, we want them for soaking each other (well T-Sirts) when in the heat on the pampas. May only be 10 minutes cool reprise, but glorious while it lasts. Should bemuse people each time we stop too.
The ride back down the valley was of course gloroius and at least we saw the views the other way. The colours that were more drab on our way in were now in full technicolour with the sun shining from the other side.
Coloured sandstone in the valley walls on way back from Uspallata
The lunatic truckers were still on the prowl however leading to caution. Even allowing the extra caution nearly wasn't enough. Three trucks in a row, a bit of a striaght and I cange down and go, indicating, and the last truck suddenly does the same (well obviously without indicating or looking) If he had been but a second leter I'd have had no-where to go. A scary moment. Ironically, Nik had gaffer taped his camera to his bike and had filmed the episode ! Don't suppose we'll report his number of course.
Regaining the plains we spotted a dead five legged horse, rigamortice had set in and it was obvioulsy a stallion !
On the multi leg front a very narrowly missed running over a tarantula too, they're a bit too comon for my liking now, that's two in three or four days !
We made good progress and then reached the point were the tarmac road went in a bow to the east and south and them west, and unmade roads went due south.
Day four (or whatever) of our BMW off-road course was now to be undertaken. We didn't have to take the unmade road, but decided it would be practice for what was to come. This was our first genuign 'Repio' road. As I'v mentioned repio is unmade road, but that's no quite the case. It's just not hard surfaced. It's gravel, but not the fine stuff, it includes sand and grit and pebbels of various size.
Bikes and Repio, before the sand section, this bit great for 50mph (Cerro Diamante on right)
At first we were very cautious, but as we realised it was very level and compacted and was safe to ride on as long as you are light on the bars, clenched grip will see you off, you must left the bike wander gently....and saty away from the edge and any ridges of grit between wheel tracks. Generally the trails are as wide as roads, but efectively they are one way until another vehicle comes, so you have to watch for the best lines.
You'd be mistaken if you thought no-one uses these roads, they do. The epoymous 4x4s are made for it, but trucks and cars also appear...including two towing boats...hmmmm. But generally, if you were on your own and came a croper I don;t think you could rely on immediate rescue, could be five minutes, could an hour, or more.
So we were soon happy barreling along at 50mph without too much problem. The views to the right were quite spectatcular of the snow caps high above the otherwise enveloping clouds. But the problem is you can't look and ride, recipe for disaster. There were also a few lone hills - Cerro Diamante - stuck up like volcanoes, and occassional canyons off to our side.
We came across a damed gorge in seemingly the middle of nowhere. Lovely transluscent green water and obviously pretty newly built. From the downstreal side the view was amazing, the dam wall was concave, therfore we had been riding over thin air across the top.
So this construction had all taken place without one tarmac road for access, and presumably not many people get to wonder at the spectacal.
Through a tunnel and the repio climbed up the plains further before gaining the plateau.
Now the (not) fun started. The repio changed from well compaced sandy gravel to dusty sand. A very unpleasant experience when your front wheel starts to wanderwith it's own mind. literally slewing to either side. Bloody scary actually I have to say.
We have been doing very well on all surfaces to say the bike and luggage and us amounts to virtually half a ton. Thta's not the sort of weight you can right with a dab of your foot should the front or back step out. Likelyhood you'd snap something.
Anyway this truely was nighmare time. The first time it happens your heart stops, when it happens very frequently it is rather stressful in the extreme. Bev even had to dismount and walk for one section, and still the bike was slewing one way then the other completely out of control.
we had to persist with great caution. no point me standing on the pegs as with Bev behind me it was too unpredicatble, and far to dangerous to both stand up in these conditions. It's amazing how well the bike, and Bev of course, cope with all that's thrown at them. but sand was the limit, it just isn't possible to ride fully oaded two up and much more than walking pace.
The fact the sand is actually much worse, it's bull dust, doesn't help either. The only time the bike felt happy was in first gear at moderate revs, anything else and we were bogging or slewing sure to crash. With both of us and the weight crashing is not an option, too much likelyhood or injury.
Nik was able to stand and with the greatly reduced weight made better progress, though he had some mildy specatcular moments were I thought he was off.
Bythe end we'd covered 117kms of repio, of which 47kms sand, and that last bit had taken an inordinate amount of time. We were both preety exhausted by that stage and I certainly felt my mind had been pretty frazzled with the concentration.
The wind was behind us for most of the remainder of the route and we were heading staright for darkening skies and wondeful snowy peaks.
The last 20 kms here were a great twisty mountain road, with mixed conditions and the odd of rockfall.
When we arrived here I thought oh my god, it's a very small closed ski resort. There was one small hotel that had sighs of life outside, but looked like maintenace rather than anything else.
We were pretty knackered and feeling a bit desparate so Bev checked the door and it opened. Amazinglyit's a thermal hotel and for £10 each we get a room, Dinner bed and breakfast and a free dip in the thermal pools.
So, again, we had landed on our feet. No food sincebreakfast so hope dinner is good !
What better to free taught muscles, and remove the dust of miles of repio (you can imagine how dusty you get I'm sure) than t dip into a hot tub. Well that's over egging (excuse pun) it, but anyway. bev was tol by an elderly resident of how it worked and we joined her with our trunks and change of clothes.
We'd been advised to take 10 minutes of the 38 deg pool. So follows th prodeedure.
You have a changing area with slab and towel and the corridor down the middle of the room is actually different temperature 'pools' from around 35 to 42 with other changing rooms on other side.
The pools were actually likw very small flooded rooms 10 ft square with steps leading down to the rather smelly sulphorous waters below. The women thought we were mad all three going in one, but it seemed reasonable to us. two heads one end, one the other and we could all lie out and submerge or bodies. The water is very heavily salty too to add to the effect. It was pleasant in an old Soviet Sanitorium way and we enjoyed a laugh or two. After 10 minutes we were called out, back to our changing rooms, laid out on th slab on a sheet which then encased us and a blanket was placed on top. A further 10 elapsed in enforced relaxment which was very good.
Another shout and we towelled and changed - you leave the medicinal waters on.
All in all quite an experience, shame no pictures to prove it. If we end up staying longer we'll get evidence. plus I think we'd go hotter, the water was similar to noe of our baths at home...without the smells or salt.
Our tea has encouraged we should stay here a few days. At the pace we're moving (still too fast !) it would take three days to get to Bariloche, train overnight, and arrive for travellers meet.....but we have two weeks, however we spend the time its 14 night accommodation
Tea consisted of a nice home made tortia with salad followed by (asumed) goat stew. Lots of big lumps of meat on bone. Very tasty, with potatoes and vegtables. all locally made and delicious. a real family place with the most stunning of mountain views out front. It gives me pangs of wanting to be in Scotland right now and out ice climbing. The views are very reminisant of the Cairngorms in April or so. Not easily pleased eh. Food was finished off with fruit salad or flan. We also had a bottle of wine and beer. Nice family place so worth a few days distraction.
Friday 2nd December
Los Mollos - Las leñas and around
Mileage - 45 kms
We did indeed decide to stay for a few days and chill. it's a very nice area and worthy of some recuperation since we've been moving on for a whole two days since Mendoza.
Post breakfast, which like last nights tea involved the host asking if we wanted any more - how often do you get that question these days ? Nice to stay away from the faceless corporate chains.
It had turned from last nights leaden skies, getting used to the fact leaden skies here need not mean rain, to the standard glorious azure cloudless blue. Our mountain panorama was free of any cloak or vail pure unadulterated bliss.
Before I forget, the stars ! I'd popped out last night before bed to check the skies and was treated to a fine display. More bright stars than I think I've ever seen, not just loads of stars, they were brighter than the ones in the Northern hemisphere I'd swear. Also behind the hotel were two smudges in the sky I had taken for clouds, but as not moving I guess they are star nebula (might be wrong term) Some were familiar, though orion was not Orion, not ideal, no star gazer. But the stars are many and bright, first real opportunity to see them.
Anyway, we wanted to pop up to las Lenas for a nosey as it is Argentina's most chic ski resort, obviously not in summer though, but ski resorts are usually well presented and fairly high.
On way we passed the Pozo de la Animas, wailing pits, strange affairs. two deep circular pools virtually joined that are naturally formed. They were best part of 100 ft deep, wider than deep, and formed in sandy gravel so acute angeled and loose and wisely fenced - best phot's on inside obviously which is what people do (only another car there at time, tourist season not 'til Christmas really). The water at the bottom was turquoise green and very photogenic. There are so many beautiful things that we see and photograph that may not make it to the mails due to restriction using Yahoo...wish I'd paid for something else now, ways round it, but have to keep some secrets for our return !
Wailing pools of the Animals, apparently they do make weird sounds as wind passes over then, not while we were there
Anyway the pits get their name as the wind whistles eerily over them...apparently. No wind in morning, no sound, lots of wind on way back, and still no sounds.
Onwards through, what sadly really, I have to describe as 'the standard multicoloured hills, shales and rocks' of the route. But belive me there's no insult intended these valleys have beauty that defies description.
The ski resort was like a ski resort in summer, very quite, butnot too ugly, must be chic ! We got cash from an ATM, saw very very few folk except people getting ready for summer. in fact sprinklers outnumbered people. There was the Eidelweiss cafe though with it's cheerful and helpful owner. We had a drinking chocolate and sat in sun (more later) for a while.
I'd checked whether the road to the Valle Hermoso was open. Apperently not, only 10 of 25kms. We set out anyway and after a short while the tarmac ended and it was a typical hard stoney, pebbly, rocky trail. Soon after we were onto day 5 of the BMW off-road course, today, Stream and River crossings, and for the advanced snow !
River crossing using Vern's floatation aides ! Top panniers and excellent Hovercraft
Once we got into the swing the streams were easily crossed, took me back to India on the Enfields (organised tour) so nice to be doing on our own bike though. Slow entry, speeding up on way through and pop out the other side in one peice.
The scenery was sublime, and above 8500 ft so abov the snow line easily, in fact the road wqas carved through the drifts the higher we went.
Bev and Nik, bikes and snow cat
The BM stuck in snow, no side or main stand required ! Going no-where further, serious snow thereafter anyway, but you have to try don´t you (with a leaking master cyclinder ?)
Finally we reached a much broader stream, fast flowing and deeper in the middle, theobvious turn road point....or.
Taking my tank bag off with Bev able to walk around via a drift over the stream I calmed my butterflies and eased into the shallows, a short turn slightly upstream and more power and the water was over and in my boots and the bike powered out the other side. like many a crossing it was far easier than it looked. I'll go for gravelly mountain streams over muddy becks back home.
Nick, though 100% inexperienced in rivr crossing acquited himself with gusto as he dived like a submerging Polaris into the deep water and rose like a breaching whale onto the far side. Very wet, but very stylish. Need less to say as with everything on this trip all this was caught on digital still and movie clip, more for you to see on our return unless anyone is offering up free web space.
Not far past that, up muddy uncosolidated switch backs we passed the snow cat parked up and then a strecth of snow. Bev hoped off, I tried my best to ease forward and managed all of 10 ft before coming to rest with no need for a stand ! That was that then, but what an adventure.
I never mentioned before, remember the last few days have been the Andes from fast on road to hard off road, well, a confession. My front master cyclinder started to leak and so far I've topped it up and stuffed some toilet paper underneath to prevent the corrosive material getting on anything. Anyway it seems to be holding up, perhaps a Christmas break repair...best not to worry when you're undertaking these minor adventure I guess. Worry yeah not ! we're not.
So anyway we had to turn and return. Even though I tried to remember to keep a hat on I hadn't put cream on and look now like Father Christmas apparently.
Back to the cafe for a fixed meal of Spag Bol, and ice cream and a fizzy drink for all of £2 each.
Back towards hotel we took some goat herders tracks, well why not. They were quite hard work, and rough, but got high up into wonderful meadows of strong smelling wild sweet peas. then bv and I took another that ended at another goat herders hut that was for all the world like the Hindu Kush or similar. goats, dust, snowy peaks a brown melt water coursing down with occassional sounds of boulders being moved downstream.
Back to base, Lahuen Co Thermal Hotel, for a hotter tub, 40 this time and a relax. with a face like a beetroot before the hot tub not too sure how relaxing it really was. Well it was great of course, marvellous.
, and your description of the soft sand riding sensation brought back fond memories - NOT 
. Sand....gives me the shivers even now 
) to Veidma 
