3rd step: Installing a replacement driveshaft

[Freeman1100GS]

Ok, my very helpful online team! I am ready for my next step.

I removed the broken head and u-joint of the driveshaft at the transmission output shaft. It came off pretty easy with slipknot and a slid hammer. I have ordered the replacement end of a driveshaft off of ebay. I hope its as good a condition as it looked.

I read a separate thread on how to install a driveshaft on a Paralever model and it seems pretty straight forward.Now I have questions about how to install the replacement driveshaft and a couple of other things.

First, everything I have read and asked , I still don't understand exactly where the "circlip" or 'circlips" go and if I have to install new one's when I put in the new driveshaft and if I do is a special tool required and an easier way to install them?

Ok... the first thing I have to do is separate the original driveshaft I have so I can inspect and potentially use the lower final drive end of the shaft. How do I separate the driveshaft into its 2 pieces?

How do I remove that end the driveshaft from the final drive unit?

Once inspected and hopefully is found to be in good working order:
How do I install the end of the driveshaft back into the final drive?
How do I install the other end of the driveshaft onto the transmission output shaft and get it completed seated?
How do I make sure the splined joint between the upper and lower parts of the driveshaft are fully engaged, seated and aligned correctly?

I am thinking that I start at the output shaft end and put it together piece by piece as I work my way down the unit to the final drive.

What type of grease do I need to buy and where are all the locations I should use it?

How do I install the rubber boot that goes over the transmission end of the driveshaft and secure it correctly?

I apologize for all the questions. Everything in writing always says install. It doesn't explain how to do it correctly. Thank you again to all of you for taking your time on the questions I have already been asking and all these that I ask now.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Have a read of this:-

http://largiader.com/articles/driveshaft/

 

[Packer]

Freeman, before you try and assemble check that the destroyed part and the new part are identical. Later shafts had an indexed spline, see Steptoe's recent post, which ensured that the two UJ's were in the correct position in respect of each other. If my memory serves correctly the UJ's should be 90 degrees from alignment to eliminate a "pulsing" vibration through the drive line. Earlier shafts were not indexed and relied on the installer knowing what was correct. The two parts aren't interchangeable.

Again from ancient memory, to align the shaft into the gearbox output use a piece of string looped around the shaft to lift it and allow alignment as you can't get your fingers in there. Make sure there are no loose fibres. Also remember that you have to have the paralever to gearbox boot over the shaft before it is installed.

The above refers to an 1150, I can't remember which you have.

 

[DrFarkoff]

The above refers to an 1150, I can't remember which you have.

Works on both even with the slightly different designs

Freeman Stop thinking about the circlip

Its just a steel ring about 7/8ths of the circumference of the shaft or that clicks into a groove on one or other of the parts to stop it sliding off !

All you have to do is make sure its in one bit or on the other bit and that the two parts slip together and resist sliding off without some application of force

Shaft alignment is fairly important but actually getting the two bits together with out damaging something is more important

have Fun

Oh in the last thread Look and understand Tadgh's link to his blig wherer he has pictures in the article about fitting nushings including supporting the final drive to fit it back in to the bike BEFORE You try

 

[West coast gser]

Freeman, before you try and assemble check that the destroyed part and the new part are identical. Later shafts had an indexed spline, see Steptoe's recent post, which ensured that the two UJ's were in the correct position in respect of each other. If my memory serves correctly the UJ's should be 90 degrees from alignment to eliminate a "pulsing" vibration through the drive line. Earlier shafts were not indexed and relied on the installer knowing what was correct. The two parts aren't interchangeable.

Again from ancient memory, to align the shaft into the gearbox output use a piece of string looped around the shaft to lift it and allow alignment as you can't get your fingers in there. Make sure there are no loose fibres. Also remember that you have to have the paralever to gearbox boot over the shaft before it is installed.

The above refers to an 1150, I can't remember which you have.

The 1100's dont have the indexed spline..

 

[tadhgocuilleain]

Oh in the last thread Look and understand Tadgh's link to his blig wherer he has pictures in the article about fitting nushings including supporting the final drive to fit it back in to the bike BEFORE You try

It looks like my server is failing. After your head's up yesterday, Jay, I got it back up but it seems to have crashed again this morning. Looks like the harddrive is failing. I hope I can clone it this evening before it dies completely. I'll stick a link up here to that blog post when I have sorted the server.

 

[tadhgocuilleain]

Oh in the last thread Look and understand Tadgh's link to his blig wherer he has pictures in the article about fitting nushings including supporting the final drive to fit it back in to the bike BEFORE You try

I've sorted the server and my blog is back up. The page Jay was referring to is here.

 

[Freeman1100GS]

thank you, all these links appear to be very helpful. I am waiting for parts to arrive from shipment then it will be time to get started.