57 R1200gs NO abs light?

[biglew1962]

if its this age - do you 100% have the reluctor ring on the inner part of the front left disc and the small wire to the wheel speed sensor... and you get a separate ABS button on the left switch gear

if it has ASC - it will ALSO have a separate ASC button beside the info button - a very rare option - and on the LCD cluster screen it will have a flashing A top right. When you press the ASC button it will swap to a better flashing S - if its working - once ridden 10 yards, it will either revert to a solid non flashing A or S another press displays nothing and its OFF

or ride up the road and stand on the back brake - if you get a crude massage on your foot its got functioning ABS, if it skids, some moron has messed with it - if it was there, but broken the red light would be on all the time

I suspect its a std bike with neither toy - or he could have turned them off with motoscan if its just broken like they always do - the brushes stick and the ESP motor doesn't run - same unit as the cars, but the ESP pump only manages the linked brakes - perfectly fixable - with a hammer or remove the pump and clean it - but that's involved

How do you turn it of with Motoscan ? Please.

 

[botus]

NOTE older models get a different even more interesting and unreliable ABS module... the normal ABS2 unit came in late 2006 and lasted till 2014 (and its basically the same as all those fitted on cars with ABS and ESP, and very similar to current BM units) and has black windscreen wiper motor to build brake pressure

if you have the motoscan app with a decent license and a decent dongle - (just buy ultimate and be done with the stress its almost free - comms programming ECUs is very sophisticated - the part comms drivel some $8 quid dongles almost manage to retrieve for a bit of diagnostic data is not a good idea)

plug in the dongle (ideally plug in a battery charger - to keep volts up), fire up the app on the phone - go to adapter check to instigate the fight with the dongle... if that returns OK, find the bike in the list (its the top one)....

go to ABS
scan for faults / (general lies all vehicles make up all day long - note: his tool only does stuff module by module) making a note of any you find just in case.
delete any (this will inform you if the tool is behaving OK and the bike is responding normally
if you want go back and re check (any big fault will be straight back - as its still active and you should investigate further, most vanish and stay gone)
go to coding - mooch about - I forget the wording but its in there ... ONLY change bits you understand and take a screen shot of the current settings
then tick the big button saying 'code' - a few seconds later it will be done...
go for a ride and test

the std set up (for UK Mkt bike) is flashing Red self test nag at key on, upon riding 10 meters the Red bit should go off, and stay off... (if you have traction control you get extra drivel in the LCD bit and if you open the throttle hard it stutters and flashes a light - till u enable normal rider mode - AKA 'S mode' which is not Sport, its Off road and is for peoople who have a bike license - by default it always starts off set up for car drivers)

check the manual for what to see

 

[Steptoe]

NOTE older models get a different even more interesting and unreliable ABS module... the normal ABS2 unit came in late 2006 and lasted till 2014 (and its basically the same as all those fitted on cars with ABS and ESP, and very similar to current BM units) and has black windscreen wiper motor to build brake pressure

if you have the motoscan app with a decent license and a decent dongle - (just buy ultimate and be done with the stress its almost free - comms programming ECUs is very sophisticated - the part comms drivel some $8 quid dongles almost manage to retrieve for a bit of diagnostic data is not a good idea)

plug in the dongle (ideally plug in a battery charger - to keep volts up), fire up the app on the phone - go to adapter check to instigate the fight with the dongle... if that returns OK, find the bike in the list (its the top one)....

go to ABS
scan for faults / (general lies all vehicles make up all day long - note: his tool only does stuff module by module) making a note of any you find just in case.
delete any (this will inform you if the tool is behaving OK and the bike is responding normally
if you want go back and re check (any big fault will be straight back - as its still active and you should investigate further, most vanish and stay gone)
go to coding - mooch about - I forget the wording but its in there ... ONLY change bits you understand and take a screen shot of the current settings
then tick the big button saying 'code' - a few seconds later it will be done...
go for a ride and test

the std set up (for UK Mkt bike) is flashing Red self test nag at key on upon riding 10 meters the Red bit should go off and stay off... (if you have traction contriol you get extra drivel in the LCD bit)

check the manual for what to see

If get your facts correct before offering advice,

 

[botus]

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