72,000 Mile Service

[Watty100]

I shall soon be doing the 72k service on my '07 bike as per the book, i.e. engine oil and filter, gearbox and FD oils, brake fluid, air filter, alternator belt, plugs, valve check and a few other things I routinely do such as spraying ACF50 into every electrical connector I can see.

My question, to the high-mileage owners out there, is there anything else you recommend doing at this time that isn't necessarily "by the book" but worth doing anyway?

(all recalls are up to date).

 

[bisbee]

Clean out all the crud from the holes in the brake discs

 

[Bendy toy]

Drop final drive. Grease pivot bearings.
Remove swing arm and grease bearings.
Remove front swing arm and grease bearings
Use a CV joint moly grease.
While the petrol tank is off, check for corrosion around the crank position sensor. It's hidden away and the problem can get bad enough to cause oil leaks.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

Nope, looks like you have it covered but worth checking the UJ's on the final drive.

 

[Bendy toy]

I did a major rebuild on my bike at 50K. Every suspension roller bearing was dry and *ked. By 70K they'd have been rattling.

 

[NZRalphy]

What Bendy said

 

[Pukmeister]

Just replaced my allegedly 'filled for life' mineral clutch fluid at 40k with magura blue 'royal blood.'

The old fluid reservoir was black with microscopic wear particles.

Clutch action feels the same, but now with new fluid any entrapped water or dirt has been flushed out.

Like Bendy, I've also found dry swingarm taper roller and fd knuckle/trunnion needle bearings that needed replacing.

 

[Bendy toy]

My front swing arm bearings were visibly worn when I looked at 50K. But parts are extortionately costly so I packed them in posh grease and boxed it up. 15000 miles along I swapped the front shock. Checked the swing arm but still couldn't feel any lateral play.
I doubt they would have survived as they were.

 

[Watty100]

Thanks for the tips, I'll be setting aside a few more hours come service day.........

 

[Zigo]

At 81k I had to replace the FD with a slightly used one. The pivot bearings in the old FD was dry and corroded. Decided to remove the swingarm to check the front bearings. They were also dry and corroded. Strangely no lateral slack could be felt. Installed new bearings and a new driveshaft with nipples for lubing the universal joints. I also packed the new bearings with more grease and splines with moly paste.

 

[Bendy toy]

Mine had all new bearings and rebuilt FD at 50K miles. Mikey replaced the driveshaft rear u/j but it's recently started a coarse vibration at power-off at speed.
I suspect it needs a new shaft.
Time for some Vaseline methinks.

 

[AustinW]

Hmmmm, I just did a 66,000 mile service on mine. So far all services have just been the basic - oils, filters, belt, squirt of oil here and there, and basic checks on clearances and for play and stuff. All seems OK apart from the FD which has a slight weep and the FD oil gets a bit coffee coloured if its used in rain a lot. I reckon I might have to dig deep and hand it over to Mikeyboy for an FD rebuild and to get all the pivots, bushes and bearings in the suspension and swing arm looked at. I think its still got another 10-15k to go though. After the summer.

 

[adventuredon]

Id be inclined to do the same..but mines still under warranty, so BMW can foot the bill if it fails...lol. I would be doing a lot more preventative maintenance if I wasn't under warranty but no use doing so in warranty

 

[Bendy toy]

Mine had a slight weep from wheel bearing seal. In less than 1000 miles it was leaking properly. BMW would have simply changed the wheel bearing.
Bearing (!) in mind the mileage, I sent the FD to Mike. He said all internal bearings were at end of Life. Trunnion pivot needle rollers were sh***ed and back end U/J was failing.
So much for shaft drives lasting better than chains.
Dig out the old thread by Patzx to see how FD internal bearings can wear badly.