A culinary tour of Europe - 8 countries in 8 days!

Nutty

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With a pass for 8 days, rough plans were made to head down to the Dolomites, as I'd read so much about it here, been recommended it by friends, and seen it on several epsodes of Top Gear.

So, here goes.

Day One - Camberley, Surrey to Chaumont-Sur-Aire, France

A boring schlep down the motorway to Folkestone, followed by a quick crossing to France, and the holiday begins.:beerjug:



Once we got to Calais, it was another boring motorway run, but we wanted to get a few miles ticked off today, so that we could enjoy some non motorway miles tomorrow. The fun began once we got off the motorway, and had a bit of a play on some back roads.

I'd pre booked the hotel for the first night (http://reservation-hotel.logishotel...5848c634e78&custid=12&hotelid=6799&partid=661), as we didn't want to be riding around looking for a bed on the first night, and what a cracking little place it was.:thumb







Excellent food, and a comfortable bed, I thoroughly recommend this place.







Day Two - Chaumont-Sur-Aire to Horw, Switzerland

Up, not quite as early as we'd hoped, as several drinks were consumed last night (this was to become a regular occurrence :D). I had a look on the map to see where to stay tonight, and decided to head for Horw, south of Lucerne. I found a hotel online but as we weren't 100% sure if we'd get that far, decided to wing it, and find a hotel when we'd had enough riding for the day. We managed to stay on the back roads for a couple of hours, then decided to make our way into Switzerland.





Before we left, I warned Mark that it was likely to be cold on some of the passes, and that base layers would still be required, even though it is May. The weather didn't disappoint, as we headed up the Vosges, up the D417. Once we got to the top, it was cold and foggy, so it seemed appropriate to order some hot chocolate, and a hot meal.:comfort



From the Vosges, we then headed into Germany, and through the south of the Black Forest. As we would be spending more time here later in the week, we didn't spend too much time here, so then headed into Switzerland.





When we got to Horw, we stopped at the hotel that I'd seen on Expedia that morning for €80, only to be told that their best price is now €250.:blast

After a couple of laps of the town, we found Hotel Felmis http://www.felmis.ch/de/en/

Where is everyone?:augie





It was reasonably priced, and the food/ drink was exceptional.:thumb



They even let us part the bikes under the canopy.:D



Day Three - Horw to Bardolino, Lake Garda, Italy

Despite consuming our combined body weight in food and drink, and attempting to gate crash a party the night before……………………….



……………..we felt remarkably refreshed.:D

The hotel manager didn't need to worry about us waking everyone up early by starting the bikes at the crack of dawn, after all!:P

So, back on the road we go.:thumb There's nothing better than getting back on the bike for another full days riding, exploring new sites, and not being quite sure what the day has in store.



Going south out of Switzerland towards Italy, we saw signs for the Furka Pass. They said it was open, even though a search at the hotel said it was closed. So, in for a penny, we were more inclined to trust the regularly updated road signs, and headed up the Furka.:cool:





About halfway up, the barrier was down, and it was closed.:blast While we were there, one of the park rangers (or whatever they're called) turned up in a van, and opened the barrier. We couldn't have timed that better. But then he got the other side of the barrier, then closed it again.:blast







So, back down the Furka, and a few miles on the motorway, to get us into Italy. As soon as we got to Italy, there was a more frantic style of driving, a free for all, and we hadn't even got off the motorway yet!:eek:

Thoroughly bored of the motorway, I reprogrammed the nav to avoid motorways, and toll roads. When we got far enough down the motorway to get us to the hotel at a reasonable time, we got off, and took what we hoped would be some scenic back roads. They weren't.:blast We went through a few towns, before finally arriving at Lake Garda. We came in from the west, and went via Sirimone, before arriving at Bardolino. The driving/ riding here was crazy, and although I knew what to expect, Mark didn't, and was happy to get to the hotel.



Tonight was to be a night of luxury, after yesterday's hiccup, so I'd booked http://www.hotelcaesiusterme.com this morning, before we left. This was a resort, and was HUGE! Underground parking, meant the bikes were secure, so after a full tour of the hotel to get to the room, and soaked in sweat, we ditched our bags, headed to the pool, and got ourselves some well earned drinks, and antipasti.



A quick shower, then on to dinner. We found a great traditional restaurant by the water, and beer and pizza was swiftly ordered. After dinner, we had a walk to try and find somewhere a bit lively for drinks, but everywhere was quiet. Even back at the hotel, at 10pm, it was a ghost town. So, a couple of night caps, one for the road, and it's off to bed.











The bikes had a good sleep as well!:comfort:D

 
Great pics & narrative Nutty....:D

A similar first few days to Mutley & I a few years ago - awesome scenery, fast roads and good food.....loving it!!!

Oh....and how successful were you @ crashing the partay? Mutley & I on our first night in the Black Forest crashed a birthday party...oh how they loved us!!!! :green gri
 
:drool

Less than 2 months to my alps trip :)

I hope you left Lake Garda nice and tidy :thumb

We left it in a right state, but by the time you go, they should be back on track.:D

Great pics & narrative Nutty....:D

A similar first few days to Mutley & I a few years ago - awesome scenery, fast roads and good food.....loving it!!!

Oh....and how successful were you @ crashing the partay? Mutley & I on our first night in the Black Forest crashed a birthday party...oh how they loved us!!!! :green gri

Cheers Keith.:thumb

Re the party, we declined the invitation to join in. This time.:augie
 
Day Four - Bardolino, Italy to Arabba, Dolomites


A reasonably early start today, as we are to get into the Dolomites today.:JB We were surprised to see so many people at breakfast, as the place was deserted last night. For those that like a proper breakfast, the Hotel Caesius doesn't disappoint. We resisted the unlimited Prosecco, located next to the smoked salmon and scrambled eggs!:drool

Within 5 minutes of leaving the hotel, we were into the italian countryside, on roads that we'd been hoping to ride yesterday.







A quick stop, then we're off again.





Once we got to the Dolomites, we stopped for lunch at Campitello di Fassa.







Then, after lunch, we hit the passes, starting with the Sella Pass:







And working our way round some of the pass tours recommended on one of the local hotel guides for motorbikes.









As it was out of season, the roads were empty; we had the roads to ourselves.:JB

After an afternoon of passes, including (in no particular order) Sella, Gardena, Pinei, Nigra, Cosalunga, Pordoi, Fedaia, Pellegrino, Valles, Rolle, we then made our way to Arabba, as it seemed to be in the middle of all the passes, and was bound to have a bit of life. Wrong!:blast It was another ghost town!:blast

We did a few laps of the town, trying to find a hotel that was open, and upon deciding to call it a day, and head to Canazei, found this little gem - http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_...l_Col_di_Lana_Province_of_Belluno_Veneto.html

I went in to ask if they had any free rooms, and was told by the very friendly manager, that they only had seven guests tonight, and that they could do a room with dinner and breakfast for €40 per person.:thumb Thomas told us to leave our bags in reception, and insisted we have a drink on the terrace, to take in the views.:beerjug::jager

It turned out he liked a drink as much as we did!



They even had a signpost outside, in case anyone got homesick!:P



After a fantastic five course dinner (sorry, forgot to take pictures!), we had a few drinks with a couple of German tourists, also on a GS.



In the morning, Thomas told us that we'd finished all their gin and vodka last night, then moved on to sample several types of Grappa.:friday:barf:D
 
Camera shy in that last pic are we Richard????????

More great pics, and traffic free roads must have been like having your own private race track!!!!

Also.....you need to share with everyone how you can only take a tail pack with you for 8 days away....or do you just have 1 set of clothes & honk for a week....:P
 
Also.....you need to share with everyone how you can only take a tail pack with you for 8 days away....or do you just have 1 set of clothes & honk for a week....:P

It's all you need for 8 nights.:rob I took enough clothes for the week, and was feeling quite smug with my small tail bag, BUT, forgot to pack a couple of smart shirts for the evenings.:blast They would have easily fitted, but when I did the dummy pack the week before, I put them back in the wardrobe, rather than leave them in the bag. Hence why I spent the week in scruffy T-shirts.:(
 
Looks like a great trip old chap :thumb

Now.. I'm feeling strangely peckish...
 
It's all you need for 8 nights.:rob I took enough clothes for the week, and was feeling quite smug with my small tail bag, BUT, forgot to pack a couple of smart shirts for the evenings.:blast They would have easily fitted, but when I did the dummy pack the week before, I put them back in the wardrobe, rather than leave them in the bag. Hence why I spent the week in scruffy T-shirts.:(

Gonna need to re-think my packing strategy......:yikes
 
Nice one :) I'm doing a similar trip in August, 9 days heading down from Cheshire, and am Motorailing back. Just me and my 12 year old son. I've picked out a couple of key places and booked accommodation in advance for that, but was just planning on winging the rest. I'm planning on travelling light(ish) ditching the panniers and I reckon I can get enough gear for the two of us in my 50 litre BMW Dryrollbagamajig.
 
Day Five - Playing in the Dolomites, on bikes :JB


Another heavy night last night, but there must be something in the air here, as we don't feel too bad. That said, it's nearly 10am by the time we've had breakfast, and got our bikes packed up and ready to go.:rolleyes:

Today is a day of riding the many passes, and taking in the scenery, so I'll let the pictures do the talking.:beerjug:













Stefan, the German GS rider last night, said that his favourite pass is the Manghen Pass, so before we left the hotel this morning, we checked if it was open. The hotel manager had a look on his usual source, and confirmed that it was open, so we headed south via Cencenighe, and Agordo, taking in the Cereda and Brocon passes.

It's roads like this where the GS is really in its element. Twisty roads, fast hairpins, lofting the front wheel in the air, then back on the brakes, 4,3,2 with the quick shifter (sorry, I had to mention it!:P), then back up 2,3,4 (not enough road for 5th and 6th!). Mark commented regularly that one minute I was right in front of him, then there'd be this almighty noise from the exhaust, then I was on the horizon. Most of the passes were mainly tight, twisty hairpins and switchbacks, but occasionally there would be a decent straight, empty road, so like a red rag to a bull, I had to explore!:augie Saying that though, some of the bends were quite gravelly and pot holed, but the GS just takes all this in its stride.:thumb

It was now time to stop for lunch, so we found this restaurant, perched on the side of a hill, and ordered a hand carved salami panini each.:drool They were so good, we'd eaten them by the time we remembered to take a picture.:blast:D



This was our table side view!



After lunch, we started climbing the Manghen Pass, only to discover that it was closed.:blast:blast:blast Next to the barrier, we noticed a slip road, gravel strewn, and pot holed; perfect for a GS, not so much for a Fazer!:P All was well, until I came flying round the corner, and was faced with this!:eek:



A quick u-turn, then back down the pass to find some more passes. We aimed for Canazei, and headed through Cavalese, turning left and doing the Lavaze pass, and heading north.

At our stop for petrol, we happened to notice a gelato shop, so a well deserved refreshment was taken!







After a couple more passes, it was about 5pm, so we decided to start looking for a hotel. We headed to Canazei for the night, arriving at about 6.30pm, where we found this hotel http://www.hotelcristallo.net/en/information/index/1-0.html and it was another great find.



A quick freshen up, and change, we wandered to the local restaurant, and had another cracking meal. Mushroom risotto to start, for me



Mark had this.:eek:



Then we both had the veal.:drool



Everywhere is SO quiet, but it was off season.:comfort





Another few for the road, and a nightcap, then it was off to bed.
 
Day Six - Canazei to the GrossGlockner, then back to Italy

As we didn't go too mad last night, we were up at a reasonable hour. We had a look on the iPad to see if the GrossGlockner was open, as it was one of the passes that I really wanted to do. When we were in the UK, it was closed, so I wasn't too hopeful. To our surprise, it was open, so I checked the webcams at the top, and the weather, just to be sure. Cloudy, with sun, and a 10% chance of snow, we decided to go for it.:beerjug:

A quick breakfast (getting fed up with ham sandwiches and cake for breakfast by now), pack our bags, and we're on the road again.:thumb

As we're leaving Canazei, we're flagged down by a 1200 GSA rider with English plates, so a quick U-turn, and we have a 5 minute chat with him. They had already done the Glockner, and were doing our route in reverse.

We headed north out of the Dolomites, via a few more passes.

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Then onto Cortina, down the SS51, with its fantastic fast, flowing main roads. After all the tight passes, this was quite welcome.:comfort

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A quick fuel up, then into Austria, and we stopped for lunch in Winklern. As we walked into the restaurant to order some food, we were hit by the smell of cigarette smoke. It was disgusting.:barf Since the smoking ban, we'd forgotten what it was like, walking into a smoke filled bar. I certainly don't miss it.

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The food was good though!:drool

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After lunch, approaching the Glockner, it started to rain, but we didn't think much of it. When we arrived at the GrossGlockner, I asked what the weather was like at the top, and was told that it was overcast. This was a MASSIVE understatement.:blast

On the way up.

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We headed up to the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Hohe lookout point, and on the way up, the fog set in, and visibility was down to around 20 foot. At the top, we joked about it, then made our way up to the Edelweiss-Spitze, which is the highest vantage point, at 2,571 metres, and is known as the bikers point. As we headed up, the fog got worse, and then it started to snow. We were riding no more than 10-15mph, as visibility was down to less than 10 feet.:eek By now, the weather had turned, and we were in the middle of a blizzard. I looked in my mirrors, and couldn't see Mark, but carried on, slowly to the top, as he's more cautious than me! When I got to the top, I sat and waited for Mark, trying to re-connect the intercom, but it kept failing. After a few minutes, I turned around, and went back down the road to see where Mark was. To my relief, he was stood by the side of the road, his bike was upright, and all appeared to be OK. Not so. Mark had come off the bike, sending it, and himself sliding down the road. I got off the bike, and went to make sure he was OK, which he was, but was mightily pissed off that he had come off. We managed to get the bike started, then proceeded to get off the Glockner as quickly as possible.

A very slow ride to the bottom, which seemed to last forever, and we stopped to look at the bike properly. Mechanically, it was fine; the damage to the bike was cosmetic, but Mark was not happy. We then discussed where to go, as we'd had enough for the day. My mention of finding a Triumph garage didn't go down too well!:P

By now, it was around 4pm, and we just wanted to find a hotel, and call it a day. The weather then turned again, and we got caught in a rain storm, which didn't stop, until we found a hotel. Every hotel we stopped at was closed, until we eventually found Gasthof Sonne http://www.gasthof-sonne.it/guesthouse-sonne-valpusteria-e.htm back in San Lorenzo. They had an underground garage (with an interesting ramp in and out :eek:), so we dumped the bikes, and checked in.:clap

A quick shower, and freshen up, then we were back on form for the evenings merriment!

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You can't keep a good man down, so a couple of bottles of wine, some food, and after dinner drinks, and we were back on form.

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A continued good read mate.

Mutley & I did the Grossglockner/Edelweiss-Spitze, and went to the visitors centre too; admittedly, the weather was much better than you experienced, so we hoolied through the pass upsetting all the sports bike riders with some outstanding over taking manoeuvres.

Still.....looks as though you ate well on the trip!!!! :D
 


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