A Filter Plus for £13 or DIY with change out of £1

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Steptoe said:
The 1150 already has a magnetic pick up in the gearbox :rolleyes:
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Just as well I have an airhead. Guess that's one improvement :tears

Do the 850 and 1100 also have a magnetic drain plug on the gearbox? And while I'm asking, is there any point in putting them on the FD drains, if they're not already there?
 
John Armstrong said:
Just as well I have an airhead. Guess that's one improvement :tears

Do the 850 and 1100 also have a magnetic drain plug on the gearbox? And while I'm asking, is there any point in putting them on the FD drains, if they're not already there?
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The 1100 gearbox and final drive drain plugs have magnets (albeit a small ones) - had a little grey 'fur' when I recently changed my gearbox oil and FD oils.
 
wouldnt it be possible to magnetise your existing bolts with one of those "tool magnetiser" blocks... that you use to do screwdrivers etc. no idea if they are any good or anything,
 
vilguy said:
id rather have less metal bits in the oil than more. Albiet, alot of the parts in engines these days are ally...(non metallic to those boys and girls that didnt go to school) but thats besides the point... its british bodgemanship giving it a go and all that. I shake your hand sir

I have seen an engine die from partical contaminants.. my xr400... in a big 80mph.. lock up solid on the A50... not sure if it was the metal bits that did it.. or the rather the lack of oil .. but ahhh its something to brag about when your in the pub

"my magnets bigger than yours" :beer:

"what.. your jap bike aint got a magnet.. pah.. thats shite that is"
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Fior those who went to scholl thats "non ferris" not non metalic, and no I wasent /aint anygoosd at spellingk.
dave gs.
 
Steptoe said:
i've yet to see a GS with a worn out engine due to oil particle contamination.
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Whose going to argue with that? This man will have seen the inside of more Engines than most.. unless of course you think yours is really 'special'.

Every 'hyper mileage' owner (like Hank) says the same... open the engine up and it's like new. All it takes to achieve that is a regular oil/filter change. He does his at 5K miles. I do mine at 3K miles (or thereabouts) Gear box and FD at 6K.

Both are I know complete overkill.. particularly the Gearbox/FD - the oil that comes out looks the same as the oil going in.
 
motobiker said:
Whose going to argue with that? This man will have seen the inside of more Engines than most.. unless of course you think yours is really 'special'.

Every 'hyper mileage' owner (like Hank) says the same... open the engine up and it's like new. All it takes to achieve that is a regular oil/filter change. He does his at 5K miles. I do mine at 3K miles (or thereabouts) Gear box and FD at 6K.

Both are I know complete overkill.. particularly the Gearbox/FD - the oil that comes out looks the same as the oil going in.
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I generally do mine once a year, last year I did 2500 miles on my gs, and over 1000 was my trip to Normandy,I know I should get out more on it and I will, no r1100rt to use and only a vfr as an alternative, I wont manage the 16k total miles of last year, but I should do over 10k, so maybe it will get done twice this year :augie
 
I bought a packet of three (!) magnets from Staples for next to nothing. Used two of them on my own bikes and gave one of them to a mate with an 1100S. Won't do any harm, though probably not much good either; if an 1100GS can do 440,000 miles the filtration system can't be bad. Wonder what oil he uses?

Both my 850 and 1100 have a magnet on the gearbox and FD drains. Probably more needed there than in the engine. IMHO same applies to using good quality oil, especially in the pre 1997 variants.
 
Trullion said:
I bought a packet of three (!) magnets from Staples for next to nothing. Used two of them on my own bikes and gave one of them to a mate with an 1100S. Won't do any harm, though probably not much good either; if an 1100GS can do 440,000 miles the filtration system can't be bad. Wonder what oil he uses?
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I'm not so sure that the 'what oil?' question is important.. the fact he changes it regularly is what counts and its self evident he does very few (if any) short runs down to the local 'offie' - which if anything - can be damaging. (though not because of swarf in the oil)

anyway.... he says....

Oil Stats

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I've been using Mobil 1 15W50 since it had 15k and for the trans/final drive I've been using Redline 80w140. When I removed the heads to replace the chain guides I was amazed at how clean the motor was inside. It looked as if it was brand new. I've been changing the motor oil at 5k mile cycles and the final drive/ trans at 10k. I adjust the valves or at least check them around 10k miles. I find that they are hardly ever off....

Hank
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I would suggest that very low anual mileage bikes have their oil change at least once a year regardless as short journeys tend to contaminate the oil with water (condensation) which can emulsify your oil. A simple test is look on the underside of your oil filler cap. If it’s got a creamy brown emulsion coating change your oil and filter!
 
i suppose if you're going to stick useless gee haws on your bike, it might as well be on the bottom, out of sight.
 
John Armstrong said:
But at least you know it's ok, rather than running 000's of miles with a water / oil mix after too many ford runs and bad seals / breather.
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No need to run any miles with bad gearoil - Try taking the filler plugs off and looking at the condition of the final drive and gearbox oil. Tells you all you need to know, you can do it every thousand miles instead of waiting until you change the oil.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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