A new happy owner with questions.

GedJack

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Morning folks,
Picked up my 2002 1150 GS yesterday and I'm really pleased. But I would like to pick the brains of the forum members with a couple of questions.

1. What is a good aftermarket screen, as I'm not happy with the standard one ?

2. Can anyone recommend a luggage rack as I use a large roll bag when I go away ?

3. Is the front engine cover easy to remove as I want to either paint or powder coat it ?

4. When I got back from the 80 mile ride home, I noticed a bit of oil on my left boot. Having had a good look round the bike I cannot see anything obvious where it might have come from.
Any help with these questions would be much appreciated. :thumb2
 
The spark plug gasket (rubber seal for spark plug tunnel) can be misaligned during re fitting. If the previous owner had had the cover off for valve adjustment it could be crimped, very common and normally an easy fix.

Plug out, peer down hole, if it doesn't look straight, cover off (washing up bowl to catch 50cc of oil) realign and refit. Cover bolts are only 8nm (I think) so don't over tighten.
 
The spark plug gasket (rubber seal for spark plug tunnel) can be misaligned during re fitting. If the previous owner had had the cover off for valve adjustment it could be crimped, very common and normally an easy fix.

Plug out, peer down hole, if it doesn't look straight, cover off (washing up bowl to catch 50cc of oil) realign and refit. Cover bolts are only 8nm (I think) so don't over tighten.
Thanks for all the help folks.
I've again inspected the bike very closely this morning and cannot see any obvious signs of a leak. I will have a look at the gasket
 
Check the oil sight glass. Also on the LH side. They can weep (very easy to televendite), though I'd be surprised if you couldn't see anything?


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3 - front cover ? (belt cover ?) It's plastic , or alternator mount ? If so then yeah easy enough , alternator need to go oil drained and so on, if powder coating need New seals and remove hall sensor
 
1. I agree with JB on the MRA screen but would also add tobinators
 
Tell me more please.

The original cam chain tensioner on the left cyclinder can break up/fail; the replacement can be done in situ without too much trouble if you're handy with spanners. I'd think there's a 'how to' guide in The Font of All Knowledge.
 
The original cam chain tensioner on the left cyclinder can break up/fail; the replacement can be done in situ without too much trouble if you're handy with spanners. I'd think there's a 'how to' guide in The Font of All Knowledge.
Thanks for that, I'll get on it.
 
Motorworks stock them, I had exactly the same problem with my R1100RS. If the front engine casing is corroded, you can paint it in situ, just make sure you mask the other areas off properly. Hammerite make a spray paint which is a good match. Preparation is key so lots of sanding, I would use an etch primer before using hammerite.
 
Motorworks stock them, I had exactly the same problem with my R1100RS. If the front engine casing is corroded, you can paint it in situ, just make sure you mask the other areas off properly. Hammerite make a spray paint which is a good match. Preparation is key so lots of sanding, I would use an etch primer before using hammerite.

Excellent, thanks, I'm going to put a crud catcher on it as well.
 
The spark plug gasket (rubber seal for spark plug tunnel) can be misaligned during re fitting. If the previous owner had had the cover off for valve adjustment it could be crimped, very common and normally an easy fix.

Plug out, peer down hole, if it doesn't look straight, cover off (washing up bowl to catch 50cc of oil) realign and refit. Cover bolts are only 8nm (I think) so don't over tighten.
After another inspection today I can see the oil on the underside of the cylinder head. After speaking to the previous owner he has had the head off.
Do I need any special tools to do the above mentioned fix ?
 
The original cam chain tensioner on the left cyclinder can break up/fail; the replacement can be done in situ without too much trouble if you're handy with spanners. I'd think there's a 'how to' guide in The Font of All Knowledge.
I thought the left hand tensioner update was to prevent the startup rattle caused by oil draining out of it while the engine is off, and that the right hand one didn't rattle because it's the other way up? Changing the tensioner blades in case of breakup is a different job?

Or am I wrong? I've been ignoring the couple of seconds of rattle from the left on startup on the grounds that I'm already wearing earplugs by then...
 
Use a good quality anti seize paste or even better marine grade on the engine cover (or any) screws. Mine is of course a 1200 with its quick rot front cover but had the screws all been pretreated there would have been no alloy rot under the paint. OK, a lot less rot.

I dont know if Givi make one for the 1150 but the Givi Airflow (AF- 330 for 1200) is a great screen that really reduces wind noise and turbulence.
 
After another inspection today I can see the oil on the underside of the cylinder head. After speaking to the previous owner he has had the head off.
Do I need any special tools to do the above mentioned fix ?

No special tools required, hex key for the bolts is all you need ... and something to catch the bit of oil that you'll lose.

On reassembly put the plug gasket in place on the head, not on the rocker cover.
 


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