A Short Trip to Tunisia 2012

BUMOT

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Sofia,Bulgaria
My name is Asen and I am from Bulgaria. That is my first ride report here.

A few details of the trip:
Duration - 11 days
Mileage – 4100 km
Purpose of the trip – just to ride around
Visited historical sites - a few

Day One.
At 7.30 am I left Sofia. My purpose was to reach Igoumenitsa, where I had booked a ticket for the ferry to Bari.
Nothing interesting during this trip. I found that after Thessaloniki there are no petrol stations directly on the highway. To fill up the tank you should take off the highway and enter the village.
I was quite happy with the price €1.85 per litre.
Sometime after Thessaloniki.
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The section before Igoumenitsa with many tunnels.
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At 4.00 pm I arrived in Igumenitsa. The ferry would depart somewhere at midnight. I checked in and hang out in a bar with free internet, to which I was directed by a kind girl from Igoumenitsa.
The ferry was considerably late and at about 1:30 we finally sailed away.
At dawn, before Barry.
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The Italian coast
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Day Two.
At 10.00 pm I arrived in Bari.
At the port with a group of Greek riders whom I met on the ferry.
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Today I had to get to Palermo. I had 700 km ahead. I said goodbye to my neighbours and started my motor bike. While exiting the centre of Bari, a man carelessly opened his car door and tried to take me off the bike. Luckily for me I get away without something like Tsukahara’s twist vault. Then on two occasions I took wrong turns and instead on the highway I found myself on a nice first-class road.
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And so to Sibari where I got on the highway leading to Reggio di Calabria.
The highway was partially under construction but the views were very pleasant to be seen. However, there were no many straight sections on the highway.
Shortly before Reggio di Calabria.
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From Messina to Palermo I had the feeling that the whole trip was in tunnels. The distance between the tunnels was not more than 10 meters. To make the things more interesting the petrol reserve light lit up long before Palermo, there were no petrol stations and there were not many cars on the highway, while the tunnels were 1-2 km long. It was just the perfect place to organize an adventure in the dark.
Somehow I made it to the first petrol station by riding economically at a speed of 90 km/h on the road sections of the last 30 km. The tank needed unprecedented amount of petrol to be filled up, which had not happened until then. I had had not more than a litre of petrol.
At 10.00 pm I finally found my hotel on top of a hill in Palermo.

Day Three.
Palermo at dawn.
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I got ready and went down to the port. First I stood in a large queue to check in, then in another large queue for passport control and boarding the ferry.
The atmosphere suggested where I headed for.
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Chao Sicily, hello Africa
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The ferry was very nice. While walking through the corridors I should be careful not to step on the head of the resting passengers. It took me about three hours to get used to the smell of the exclusive selection of socks in the room where I had booked a seat.
As midnight I arrived in Tunisia. I had to find a hotel but the GPS map of Tunisia did not show the street names. There was no one to ask. I rode to the city lights and at a roundabout I saw two policemen. I stopped to ask them about the hotel but they were not sure exactly where it was located and they spoke French Italian and Arabic while I spoke a sort of English.
I was told that I should ride straight on for six kilometres and turn right then. Somehow this clarification did not appeal to me. I asked them whether a taxi driver would know the hotel address and they immediately stopped the first unoccupied taxi. I bargained with the driver and drove off to the hotel. This driver was probably a candidate for starring in the movie TAXI IN TUNISIA 5. Such a chase was it that I barely caught up with him. After 6-7 km race I was in the hotel.
A few pictures of night Tunisia from the hotel.
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Great so far. You have brilliant English !
 
Day Four
It was time to meet the Tunisian reality in daylight.
The direction was the city of Gafsa. I had no specific plans because I had no idea what the roads and traffic were and how long it would take me. Later on, I realized that I had passed by the town of Dugga and could see this and that, but I was attracted to the south of Tunisia. The roads proved to be excellent and in the afternoon I was in Gafsa.
Here's how the landscape was changing.
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I didn’t like much Gafsa and I decided to ride across to the oasis of Chebika and Mides Canyon. As far as I remembered, there should be a camping.
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And as I had no roadmap, led by my wayward GPS, I found myself on a track according to it. However, according to what I saw, this had been a track, but long ago, and to add on, this was an asphalt track.
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I had planned to visit tracks on the following day or the day after. At one point, the asphalt road made a left turn and remainders of a track appeared visible ahead. My GPS got into a flap. I decided to follow the asphalt road. After some kilometres, I again found myself back on the track and so I arrived in Chebika.
Here, you can see a Fata Morgana on the horizon.
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A few pictures from Chebika.
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And some of Mides Canyon.
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The canyon should be walked around but I did not have so much time, it was going to be dark soon.
I couldn’t find a camping place and drove off to Tozeur.
The road that leads from Chebika to Tozeur.
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After an hour ride I arrived. I stayed in Les Beaux Reves Camping site. There was a group of Italians driving Renault 4, prepared for desert drive and a German with a KTM 990, with whom we spent the night in tormenting the English language. Silvio, that was the name of the German motorist, said he had devoted two weeks for Tunisia only. He always travelled alone and never used GPS, but a road map only. That was more adventurous for him. I looked at the roadmap and I liked it. It is published by REISE KNOW-HOW and I intend to become their client.

Day Five.

I got up, opened the canteen and made coffee.
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I discussed with Silvio parts of the route, we made up a photo duel for a memorial and goodbye.
Das ist Silvio.
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The plan was as follows. Tozeur through lake Chott El Jerid to Kebili, from there to Duz and Ksar Ghilane and according to the time I had – either camping or another 80 km of track, this time without asphalt, to Chenini and Tataouine.
I gathered up my luggage and set off to follow my major plan. The weather was pleasant with a slight breeze.
Photos from the lake.
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Meanwhile the wind became considerably stronger and somewhere after the middle of the lake the situation became like this.
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I could ride at no more than 60 km/h in a strange position on the motorbike. The air temperature increased to 32C. And this was for 40km. I got somehow to Kebili in such a curved pose and stopped to decide what to do. Continuing alone towards the desert in these conditions didn’t seem very reasonable. However, it was the season of the sandstorms. If I got stuck in the middle of nowhere by a sandstorm offering me a peeling for three days, I would be in for my tickets for the ferry. I put away my Major Plan from this morning and headed to Gabes. The meeting with the Tunisian Desert was postponed for another time. The wind continued draining me as a dried herring but at least there was no sand.
 
After Gabes, I headed for the town of Sfax.
The sea is somewhere behind those rocks.
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Sfax turned out to be a developed industrial city. It was a madness to drive downtown, however, it was the rush hour.
I tried looking for a hotel but with no success. I stopped and sent a request to the base camp for the address of a hotel and after a while it gave result. The plan with the taxi-GPS again came into use. I checked in the hotel and so ended that day.

Day Six.
In the morning I left the town with a little less traffic and headed to El Djem.
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In front of the Coliseum in El Djem.
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And in the Coliseum.
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On the way out I met the owners of these machines.
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We sat down to talk over a cup of tea and from word to word it appeared that the Gilera’s owner knows Silvio and he had no idea that he was in Tunisia at that time. Sometimes it appears that it is a small world indeed.
My next destination was the town of Kairouan, the fourth or maybe the fifth holy Muslim centre in the world.
The Great Mosque.
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Under these tiles there is a large rainwater tank
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From Kairouan I went to the last point of the plan for the day – the camping site Jasmine in the town of Nabeul.
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As shown in the picture, the camping site was highly crowded. We were just me and the trees. In these latitudes I now could buy a beer. I drank two beers, exchanged a few SMS-toasts and went to bed in the tent to become sleepy reading the manual of my camera Canon in the light of my head lamp.

Day Seven (Day off)
Today's program included 60 km ride to the capital and walks along the streets after checking in at the hotel.
Tunisia during the day.
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One of the closed markets in the medina.
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There was even a cathedral.
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Day Eight.

The ferry was to depart at 8.00 p.m. and I didn’t hurry to leave the hotel.
At 11.00 I went to the port to check in before it got too crowded but the check-in began after 5.00 p.m., it was time to visit Sidi Bou Said.
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Typical pottery of Sidi Bou Said.
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Once I finished with the tour, I headed back to the port. I had four hours before departure. In front of the terminal, I met the owner of this machine, Eugenio.
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Italian who has been organizing tours in the deserts of Tunisia, Libya, Algeria, as well as tours in Iceland for ten years. Time passes quickly in good company. As the departure time approached, a waiting line for the ferry formed. Three Sicilians riding endures came; they had ridden on tracks and dunes only. The time came to load on the ferry and I walked in to have my documents checked. Luckily Eugenio was in the next lane at the check, though he was on another ferry. It turned out that I didn’t have a piece of paper certifying that I entered Tunisia on my motorbike. I had no memories to have been given such a document upon entry. Eugenio went to speak with one of the customs officers and returned with that note in question. He filled it in for me as it was in French and accompanied by European thanks from me he took it to the customs officer. So with the help of this man I spared myself a lot of trouble.
Then upon the check of the ferry from the Italian border police it turned out that upon exiting Palermo my passport had not been stamped certifying my leaving of EU. I explained the policeman that I do not put stamps and that someone had been sleeping at the time but anyway they let me in the ferry only after they had checked my passport. There was an additional procedure of filling in documents in order to facilitate the arrival in Palermo. The instructions on the radio system were only in Italian and but for the three Sicilians I would have missed this document as well.
In short, the last few hours I was under Italian protection.
In the morning we arrived in Palermo at 10.00, said goodbye and I headed for Cosenza. It was not possible in one day to get to Bari in time for the ferry.
From here on there was nothing interesting on the way. The weather deteriorated and 100 km before Bari it was pouring with rain. In Bulgaria I missed the bad weather in spite of the orange code which was declared.
So after 11 enjoyable and interesting days this trip ended.
I would definitely come back again to Tunisia with a small Enduro and the most northern point of stay – the town of Duz.
 
Thanks for taking the time to post that. very enjoyable read. :thumb2
 
Thanks for taking the time to post this. It looks an interesting place.
 


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