ABS and hydraulic pump making noise

[GSophil]

halo
i'm new here and i cant express my joy to have found you.

the bike is a R1200 gs 2006 with 11k miles

in November I have changed the pads on the rear an bleed the caliper by the old school methods,I have not used the bike since, because i had a major problem with the bike not starting at all and i found the solution on this forum by bypassing the petrol pump driver.
Now that i fixed that
the abs pump is making a continuous noise like the one you hear when u power up your bike and it goes trough diagnostic cycle and also when pressing your breaks without the engine on.
I have changed the pads on the rear an bleed the caliper by the old school methods.
I've checked the manual and with the signaling from the instrument cluster I'm getting the red triangle on and the ABS red light flashes quickly which the manual says that only one break has residual breaking function and i could ride but with caution as more effort is needed to press the lever and to get a mechanic to look at it.
I'm concerned if having the pump spinning like that wont damage itself.
When i press the front break with the ignition on i still get the pumping noise changing its pitch but when i press the rear one nothing changes.
even if i start the engine the pump noise is still there. The rear break does operate but not with any help from the hydraulic pump.

Anyone any ideas .. is there a bleeding kit that i should use.. to get out the possible air that may have got into the ABS pump ????



thanks a lot

 

[Fanum]

Sounds like the rear brake switch is sticking.....get down there and check it- you should (I'm assuming it's a similar microswitch to that of an 11xx) hear a tiny click as it activates with the bike turned off.

If it's crudded up or has received a knock, this would cause what you describe.

Also check the handguard isn't bet in a little and touching the front lever- I don't think it is this though 'cos this would activate both front and rear circuits......but odd things happen and it's worth checking that after the footbrake switch if the rear one is OK .

 

[cookie]

just wondering, but why bleed the rear caliper when you changed pads?

i'm not sure on this but, you say you bled it using "the old school methods". i think you need to bleed from the ABS modulator unit to the caliper.

if you bled from the master cylinder to the caliper (what i would say is "old school"). then you will just empty the ABS unit of fluid.

i think.

 

[GSophil]

hi Fanum
thanx for the advice
I have checked if the switch is opperating the break light and it does only when i press the break. it looks to me that the switch is working fine if is the same switch you were saying about.
is there a diferent switch somewhere?

 

[GSophil]

hi cookie..
this is overhelming so many replies in such a short time .. thanks for them.
what i've done and what i call the old style method is when I put the new pads in as they are thicker then the used once i had to release some of the fluid to get them in.
after i got the caliper on the disck i pumped few times and then kept the pedal pressed and opened the vent to get what ever air was in there .. ( if it happened to be in there)
i didnt see nothing much comming out apart from the break fluid pouring nicely out

 

[cookie]

i can't see why that would be necessary, unless it had been filled up with worn pads

anyway, you didn't see any air coming out (and you can't see it going in), but it's a bit of a coincidence in my book

 

[GSophil]

i dont know of what i done was any good or too bad but just thoght of that..
by the way the nosy pump did not start straight away..
as i said the bike has not been moved for a month and I was just charging up the battery and tried about hundred times to started hopeing to get it again in its starting mood. ( as it was a loose connection on the pump driver it had its moments)
i was thinnking if anyone has had the simillar noise before?
thanx for your reply

 

[ktmmark]

you will find you have to bleed the abs pump, if you had pushed the pistons back without opening the bleed niple you would have been ok
look at this
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6647300&postcount=4

 

[st247]

Might be worthwhile doing a torrent search for 'Reprom', the CD based BWM service manual. One here. It gives you a lot more information.

 

[GSophil]

Thanks a lot Ktmmark for your links very intresting i hope very usefull
St247 thanx alot.. i had bought the bmw cd rom from ebay and its crap as i could not find nothing usefull apat of what torque or what serial is the diagnostic tester from BMW that i should use.
by the look of the picture this thing seems real

thanx a lot ..
I will be posting updates on my progress in the weekend when hopefully i get nice weather and all the tools and start flushing the breaking system ..
thanx

 

[Pukmeister]

DO NOT RUN THE ABS PUMP ANYMORE!!!

GSophil, the noise you mention is the ABS hydraulic pump cavitating because the internal reservoir within the ABS pump (not the handlebar or rear brake reservoirs) is low or almost empty. Obviously you weren't to know that 'old school' bleeding methods do not apply (learnt that one myself the hard way too on an 1150Adv system).

The ABS pump is lubricated by the brake fluid. If you are lucky you can refill the ABS pump reservoirs and bleed the system properly (NOT the 'old school' way) and you will have got away without damaging your ABS pump. If you run it low/dry you will cause expensive damage to the pump (Over £1000 to replace).

You will need to remove the fuel tank to gain access to the ABS pump, then open the reservoir cover and refill with fresh brake fluid. Then you will need to carry out the bleeding procedure on brakes to be sure that you have purged all air from the ABS pump and brake circuits, as per the link that KTMMark has provided.

It may be easier to get the dealers to do it if you have a way to get the bike to them. When I cocked up whilst bleeding brakes on an 1150Adv, the dealers (generously) charged about £70 to refill and bleed/flush.

 

[GSophil]

thanx Pukmeister
I wont run the pump even thoough i only had it running for max 20 min intermintently while i was tring to see what it was that created the noise with no success
thanx for putting in good light..
all the best and dry roads !

 

[Steptoe]

DO NOT RUN THE ABS PUMP ANYMORE!!!

GSophil, the noise you mention is the ABS hydraulic pump cavitating because the internal reservoir within the ABS pump (not the handlebar or rear brake reservoirs) is low or almost empty. Obviously you weren't to know that 'old school' bleeding methods do not apply (learnt that one myself the hard way too on an 1150Adv system).

.

I'll second that.

 

[GSophil]

hallo every one..
i have finally sorted it my pump runnig problem .
i found a tread on adventure forum and with the help of that realised that i needed to reset the ABS or simply clear the faults.. as i dont like spending to much money and BMW is too bussiness minded i've bought the gs-911 interface and resetted it my self ( more it was the curiosity of what other faults may be in there...
it seemed that the voltage drop over the cold weather made the main brain decide to put the biggish consumer abs in a kind of ignore/ hibernation mode so by reseting the faults i got my abs running again in aprox 2 minutes.. i used to hate the new computer controled situations ..
thanx everyone for all the usefull sugestions... if i can help back in any way let me know .. i'm situated in north london