ABS light on heavy braking

ShakeyGS

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I've had the ABS warning light come on five times now. Four of these were after enthusiastic braking using both brakes. I'm not talking about stoppies etc. and I don't believe the back wheel is leaving the ground (as per the user manual).

I guess the sensor push rod for the rear suspension travel might not be properly adjusted or something like that so I'll get on to the dealership today but I wonder if anyone else has had dimilar experiences with the LC?
 
Isnt the Idea of ABS to stop the wheels locking ?

The back brake will lock the back wheel very easily ans as you describe using both brakes, as opposed to relying on the linked system, and braking enthusiastically ( hard) I am probably correct in assuming the rear was trying to lock hence the ABS warning light indicating that the system is working !
 
I'm not sure what you mean by linked brakes. How are they linked?

Shakey , you should read the manual before riding your bike again.

Take your observations to the dealer without doing so, he is going to laugh at you.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by linked brakes. How are they linked?

Is this a wind up ?

If you apply the front brake, That is the lever on the RHS near the throttle the bike will automatically apply the rear brake as well in the correct ratio required by the ABS system i. not locking the back wheel !

The same does not apply to the rear brake used on its own
 
OK not a windup. I've owned a VFR in the past where the brakes were mechanically linked. I genuinely didn't realise that the GS brakes were linked via the ABS.

Now I'm not the most aggressive of riders and despite my original title I'm not braking very heavily so I'm not impressed if the ABS is turning itself off at the slightest overuse of the back brake pedal.

I'm making an assumption that the lift of the rear end is measured by a sensor connected to the pushrod in front and to the left of the rear wheel. If the bike is whingeing too much then I suspect this might need checking for calibration.

Booked in to BMW next Weds.

Thanks all for your responses.
 
OK not a windup. I've owned a VFR in the past where the brakes were mechanically linked. I genuinely didn't realise that the GS brakes were linked via the ABS.

Now I'm not the most aggressive of riders and despite my original title I'm not braking very heavily so I'm not impressed if the ABS is turning itself off at the slightest overuse of the back brake pedal.

I'm making an assumption that the lift of the rear end is measured by a sensor connected to the pushrod in front and to the left of the rear wheel. If the bike is whingeing too much then I suspect this might need checking for calibration.

Booked in to BMW next Weds.

Thanks all for your responses.

Shakey you are not getting this !

may i suggest you try the following in order to understand it better !

Go out on your bike and just use the bake brake and do so progressively harder until the ABS light comes on, you will also feel the action of the ABS through the pedal. By using just the back brake the front brake will not be applied and the looser the surface on which you are riding is the easier it will be to activate the ABS. This will show you that the ABS is functioning correctly at the rear whee lunless you can actually totally lock the back wheel without the ABS kicking in.

Now if you have the cojones for it try and do the same with the front brake only I.E try and get the front to lock or do a big stoppie, do not use the rear brake at all. You will feel the ABS kick in and see the lights illuminate.

The traction control is slightly different but you can get that to illuminate the dash by making the back wheel spin ( loose surface) or a wheelie should do the trick.

For all or any of the above i would recommend using rain mode as that will up the "sensitivity" of the ABS and the traction.

The ABS does not turn itself off and if you are braking hard enough for the rear to lift on a GS then that is indeed enthusiastic braking. I add that if you ar braking hard with the front the rear will of course become a little de weighted allowing the rear to "lock" more easily thus activating the ABS

I would also recomend not bothering with the rear brake at all in normal riding as the linked system is very effective. Trail braking when too hot into a corner or slow speed turns etc is another matter.
 
Too true Stuart but if you read my first post again you might just infer that I have already done that :blast

I agree , just thumbed the manual and it isn't mentioned ! May I apologise.

And you are correct, there are two separate tell-tale lights;


Edited to add; advice posted above is 100% ;
 

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Too be honest, it's likely to be the one between the two arrows and I may just have to adapt my braking style. I'm having the ambient air sensor checked at the same time (see different post - posdible water ingress)
 
Shakey you are not getting this !

may i suggest you try the following in order to understand it better !

Go out on your bike and just use the bake brake and do so progressively harder until the ABS light comes on, you will also feel the action of the ABS through the pedal. By using just the back brake the front brake will not be applied and the looser the surface on which you are riding is the easier it will be to activate the ABS. This will show you that the ABS is functioning correctly at the rear whee lunless you can actually totally lock the back wheel without the ABS kicking in.

Now if you have the cojones for it try and do the same with the front brake only I.E try and get the front to lock or do a big stoppie, do not use the rear brake at all. You will feel the ABS kick in and see the lights illuminate.

The traction control is slightly different but you can get that to illuminate the dash by making the back wheel spin ( loose surface) or a wheelie should do the trick.

For all or any of the above i would recommend using rain mode as that will up the "sensitivity" of the ABS and the traction.

The ABS does not turn itself off and if you are braking hard enough for the rear to lift on a GS then that is indeed enthusiastic braking. I add that if you ar braking hard with the front the rear will of course become a little de weighted allowing the rear to "lock" more easily thus activating the ABS

I would also recomend not bothering with the rear brake at all in normal riding as the linked system is very effective. Trail braking when too hot into a corner or slow speed turns etc is another matter.

Cheers Redrick. I'll give this a whirl on the way home. I was in rain mode when the light came on for no apparent reason. All other times have been in Dynamic so I'm starting to put two and two together even if I'm getting 3.9999999 :)

Odd that the system is so different to my 2011 R
 
Cheers Redrick. I'll give this a whirl on the way home. I was in rain mode when the light came on for no apparent reason. All other times have been in Dynamic so I'm starting to put two and two together even if I'm getting 3.9999999 :)

Odd that the system is so different to my 2011 R
The system is inherently the same in principle but it is a different bike with different characteristics. I seriouslyu doubt that there is anything wrong with the braking system and think that if you do adapt your riding style to pretty much not bothering with the rear brake pedal you will be fine
 
Well, I tried the above suggestions in all modes on the way home and there wasn't even the slightest glimmer of a light.
 
What you describe was happening when braking hard fast on approach to french hairpins last year, the back was locking a bit, as it does assist by adding rear brake pressure but on top of what i already applied,
i just use the front now at speed and both in slower stuff, never done it since,so assumed it was me, It won't hurt to get it checked out,,
Roamer
 
So you can't lock the back wheel ? Or can you ?


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I tried sir, 'onest I did.

I'm sure you guys are right and they'll find nothing.
I took your advice and tried using just the front brake and I must say I'm impressed with the integral braking (to give it its posh name from the manual).

Anyway - It's a day off work to go to get it checked out :D and my fave route to Dundee takes me over Glenshee and the route back along the Aberdeenshire coast through Arbroath, Montrose and Stonehaven. So a bad day on the bike in the rain with my ABS light on will still be better than a good day in the office ;)
 
I think that you're braking to the point that the back wheel, though not lifting completely, does lose traction and that's spooking the ABS into shutting off - which it will do if conditions are right. My understanding is that the ABS / ASC cannot stop the back wheel from lifting - the ASC will retard power to stop the front from wheeling, but the ABS won't release brake pressure to bring the back down.

Hope it all gets sorted. For my tuppence worth, I think that the BMW ABS and ASC is top draw for the bike, not that I get to the point of activation that often.
 
For my tuppence worth, I think that the BMW ABS and ASC is top draw for the bike,

Agreed!

Also - When you ride other designs the fork dive becomes ( for me ) very undesirable.
I enjoy the fact that; when on the brakes, the GS stays perfectly level !
 


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