if you are getting the single "clunk" and ABS faults on start up then my money would be on the starter magnets coming loose/breaking up DAMHIK
Good call!
ABS - Low Voltage?
- Thread starter Oldie
- Start date
Good call!
Had the same problem with the gs i bought 2 weeks ago, drawing all the power out of the battery, abs lights flashing.... Turns out all the magnets had come off in my starter, had it sorted put it back on today and all is well, abs works fine aswell 
I've just had the same problem. Replaced the rear brake bulb. All works fine now.
The bulb appeared to be working fine but was not!
The bulb appeared to be working fine but was not!
Took my starter off tonight. Stripped it and found it all OK, so mine must be a dodgy battery, ho hum.....
Or bad earth or cable connections
New starter motor arrived from Germany today and it works a treat 
What a bargain.
Unfortunately, all my messing about with the bulbs means that I now have lost power to most of the instrument panel lights, tacho and side lights
so need to spend some time getting that back in order. Possibly a bad earth, loose fuse or similar - just a case of trial and error as I'm no spark. Almost there
What a bargain.Unfortunately, all my messing about with the bulbs means that I now have lost power to most of the instrument panel lights, tacho and side lights
so need to spend some time getting that back in order. Possibly a bad earth, loose fuse or similar - just a case of trial and error as I'm no spark. Almost there Ok, all fixed. I now have one fully functioning, sweet running GS 
Had to replace fuses 1 & 2 to get instrument and position lights. Test run for ABS was successful too. So £50 for the starter motor, £64 for a new battery and a quid for replacement T5 bulbs.
Big thanks to the various posters whose ideas I used
Had to replace fuses 1 & 2 to get instrument and position lights. Test run for ABS was successful too. So £50 for the starter motor, £64 for a new battery and a quid for replacement T5 bulbs.
Big thanks to the various posters whose ideas I used
Tried that, no volt drop on pos or neg
Lookin like a battery. You know the worse thing? I had a battery I removed form my R1200RTP (the aux battery) which tested perfect, so I gave it away!
Hey ho........
Hare About
Registered user
R1100GS ABS resset
It sounds like the abs just needs resetting.
HERE are the instructions
[/QUOTE]
My ABS lights started flashing this morning following me working on the bike tracing an electrical fault elsewhere. I'd seen the ABS lights flash before when the battery was low, as I'd had the bike sat and had been using the battery quite a lot I gave the battery a chance and drove the bike across the Oxfordshire countryside to charge it up. After 60 miles and a number of re-starts the lights remained defiantly on.
Bugger I thought, I must have broken it.
Having spent £12 on this forum I searched it for pearls of wisdom and sense. I found none!
However, after searching all the prattling on that you lot have done over the last while, I got the above and reset my ABS. I had checked the cost of ABS parts from Motor Works and was shocked, so thank you, thank you, thank you.
I recon that the BMW dealer would have charged me at least £60 for that!
It sounds like the abs just needs resetting.
HERE are the instructions
[/QUOTE]My ABS lights started flashing this morning following me working on the bike tracing an electrical fault elsewhere. I'd seen the ABS lights flash before when the battery was low, as I'd had the bike sat and had been using the battery quite a lot I gave the battery a chance and drove the bike across the Oxfordshire countryside to charge it up. After 60 miles and a number of re-starts the lights remained defiantly on.
Bugger I thought, I must have broken it.
Having spent £12 on this forum I searched it for pearls of wisdom and sense. I found none!
However, after searching all the prattling on that you lot have done over the last while, I got the above and reset my ABS. I had checked the cost of ABS parts from Motor Works and was shocked, so thank you, thank you, thank you.
I recon that the BMW dealer would have charged me at least £60 for that!
richierex
Registered user
The Grey One
Registered user
I had a similar issue when I had my R1100RS, new battery, was thinking of going for a new starter motor, but then carried out this then no more problems with the ABS on starting
Goes to all that trouble and then uses a crimp on connector at the earth point
John
steliosh
Registered user
Hello gents!
I am writing here, not feeling the need to start a new thread:
I've done both IBMWr.org mods, back in 2006, the "start the bike with the sidestand down" and the "ABS-II low voltage mod".
(Both my mods on my bike can be seen here: http://www.steliosh.net/moto/gs1100/mods/index.html, and they worked flawlessly ever after!)
Bike is 1998 R1100GS with no other mods with 83000km's on it so far.
Starter motor was replaced recently with new one...
Recently I ran into some gearbox issues, plus I needed a new clutch, so I rode the bike to the local BMW dealer and had them do the clutch renewal and gearbox servicing.
After taking back the bike I realized two problems:
1. The big green neutral light stays always on, no matter what gear I am in! The gear indicator in the RID, however shows the different gears. It always lights up when I turn the key and goes off when turning the key off...
The dealer would not touch the problems, stating that they are (you guessed it!) MODS!!! However, they knew how to reset the ABS (engine running) with the mod in place!!!
2. The ABS lights (modded as stated above) keep flashing alternating after engine starts.
I checked the gap of the rear ABS sensor (good) and I can do a reset of the ABS. It works. Only for a few meters. It does the clunk, lights go out at 4km/h and then after 20-50 meters of riding they start flashing alternating!
Reset and the condition comes again!
I tried to do fault searching on the ABS, but with the "mod" it's nigh on impossible to do it.
I have a link on how to check for fault: http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html but obviously it would work without the ABS "mod"...
Should I rewire the bike back to stock, regarding both mods and start from there?!
I checked all "earth" connections, and they seem fine...
Any ideas would be welcome, before heading back to the dealer to fork out precious $$$'s !!!
Actually, the ABS incident is more worrying, now with wet weather looming above us, and the Greek roads being what they are!!!
I'm just afraid that both problems MAY have occured from the same reason?!
I am writing here, not feeling the need to start a new thread:
I've done both IBMWr.org mods, back in 2006, the "start the bike with the sidestand down" and the "ABS-II low voltage mod".
(Both my mods on my bike can be seen here: http://www.steliosh.net/moto/gs1100/mods/index.html, and they worked flawlessly ever after!)
Bike is 1998 R1100GS with no other mods with 83000km's on it so far.
Starter motor was replaced recently with new one...
Recently I ran into some gearbox issues, plus I needed a new clutch, so I rode the bike to the local BMW dealer and had them do the clutch renewal and gearbox servicing.
After taking back the bike I realized two problems:
1. The big green neutral light stays always on, no matter what gear I am in! The gear indicator in the RID, however shows the different gears. It always lights up when I turn the key and goes off when turning the key off...
The dealer would not touch the problems, stating that they are (you guessed it!) MODS!!! However, they knew how to reset the ABS (engine running) with the mod in place!!!
2. The ABS lights (modded as stated above) keep flashing alternating after engine starts.
I checked the gap of the rear ABS sensor (good) and I can do a reset of the ABS. It works. Only for a few meters. It does the clunk, lights go out at 4km/h and then after 20-50 meters of riding they start flashing alternating!
Reset and the condition comes again!
I tried to do fault searching on the ABS, but with the "mod" it's nigh on impossible to do it.
I have a link on how to check for fault: http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html but obviously it would work without the ABS "mod"...
Should I rewire the bike back to stock, regarding both mods and start from there?!
I checked all "earth" connections, and they seem fine...
Any ideas would be welcome, before heading back to the dealer to fork out precious $$$'s !!!
Actually, the ABS incident is more worrying, now with wet weather looming above us, and the Greek roads being what they are!!!
I'm just afraid that both problems MAY have occured from the same reason?!
steliosh
Registered user
A couple more notes:
I measured the Ohm's on both wheels' ABS sensors, they are 135 (F) and 140(R), so they seem to be good.
I also checked the gap of the rear wheel ABS sensor: It's just a 5-minute job: Remove the caliper bolts, raise the caliper and there is the gap easily measured! Feeler in the bike toolbox was rusty, so I dug out my "regular" feeler set!
Redo the caliper and remember to press the rear brake pedal a couple of times before riding!
Battery is gel, 2-years old, 12.67V at rest, 14.1V with engine idling...
So far, trying to avoid removing swingarm from gearbox to check for the neutral switch...
But... it seems I won't be avoiding that in the end...
I measured the Ohm's on both wheels' ABS sensors, they are 135 (F) and 140(R), so they seem to be good.
I also checked the gap of the rear wheel ABS sensor: It's just a 5-minute job: Remove the caliper bolts, raise the caliper and there is the gap easily measured! Feeler in the bike toolbox was rusty, so I dug out my "regular" feeler set!
Redo the caliper and remember to press the rear brake pedal a couple of times before riding!
Battery is gel, 2-years old, 12.67V at rest, 14.1V with engine idling...
So far, trying to avoid removing swingarm from gearbox to check for the neutral switch...
But... it seems I won't be avoiding that in the end...
Welshman
Registered user
If the switch is not pushed home fully it can do this, put it on the centre stand and push it in, it may look ok but not be seated
steliosh
Registered user
I *think* the two switches are bolted on the gearbox, right?
First the neutral switch, then the gear position switch, on top of it?
But I can check if there's any play before unbolting anything...
Good idea!
In the meantime, I "undid" the sidestand "mod". Now the bike starts with the sidestand up, but turns off with the sidestand extended.
I also disconnected the neutral switch. The engine starts with sidestand up AND the clutch pulled in. Turns off with sidestand extended.
First the neutral switch, then the gear position switch, on top of it?
But I can check if there's any play before unbolting anything...
Good idea!
In the meantime, I "undid" the sidestand "mod". Now the bike starts with the sidestand up, but turns off with the sidestand extended.
I also disconnected the neutral switch. The engine starts with sidestand up AND the clutch pulled in. Turns off with sidestand extended.
steliosh
Registered user
Ahem... is there a priest available to bless my bike?!
On the way home this afternoon, the clutch cable broke! OK, it was some 6-7 years old... I have changed it once again, since new...
I WALKED home (about 3 miles/4.5 km's, no big deal!), mounted the trailer at the back of my car, trailered the bike home. Went and bought a clutch cable.
Duly replaced with the new one. Total: 90 minutes since the cable broke! I had my daughter time me on replacing the clutch cable: 11 minutes flat! From working bike to semi naked, to working bike again!
Then, I was just wandering around the bike...
So, I just did something I've not yet done: I disconnected the neutral switch and left it disconnected. The plug is zip tied to the left side frame rail of the bike, right under the rider's seat.
The ABS WORKS! No more faults!
It seems it doesn't like the neutral green light being always on (is there a reason they call it an idiot light?! Maybe because I swear at it a lot!).
As soon as the neutral switch and the neutral light is off, the ABS works, time and time again...
(This morning I went to work with the ABS fault and the green light on, again).
Low voltage? No way! I started the bike 5 times with the lights on and it just kept triggering the ABS, every time!
So, next project is to try to see if the switch is moving around...
Does anyone know if the neutral switch is salvageable, like the other bike switches? (I remember I read in here recently about a repaired gear indicator switch- the other one at the back of the gearbox).
That... in case I will need to take out the swingarm...
On the way home this afternoon, the clutch cable broke! OK, it was some 6-7 years old... I have changed it once again, since new...
I WALKED home (about 3 miles/4.5 km's, no big deal!), mounted the trailer at the back of my car, trailered the bike home. Went and bought a clutch cable.
Duly replaced with the new one. Total: 90 minutes since the cable broke! I had my daughter time me on replacing the clutch cable: 11 minutes flat! From working bike to semi naked, to working bike again!
Then, I was just wandering around the bike...
So, I just did something I've not yet done: I disconnected the neutral switch and left it disconnected. The plug is zip tied to the left side frame rail of the bike, right under the rider's seat.
The ABS WORKS! No more faults!
It seems it doesn't like the neutral green light being always on (is there a reason they call it an idiot light?! Maybe because I swear at it a lot!).
As soon as the neutral switch and the neutral light is off, the ABS works, time and time again...
(This morning I went to work with the ABS fault and the green light on, again).
Low voltage? No way! I started the bike 5 times with the lights on and it just kept triggering the ABS, every time!
So, next project is to try to see if the switch is moving around...
Does anyone know if the neutral switch is salvageable, like the other bike switches? (I remember I read in here recently about a repaired gear indicator switch- the other one at the back of the gearbox).
That... in case I will need to take out the swingarm...
steliosh
Registered user
Rode the bike to work and at halfway there, the lights began alternating... I had ridden about 10 minutes maybe 15...
At the same time, I heard the arming "clunk"! And no ABS thereafter.
At work, I reset the ABS...
In the evening, with ABS reset, after about 10 minutes again, clunk, and lights!
SOMETHING is wrong, definitely!
Saturday morning we "disabled" the "ABS mod" and had the lights alternating at key on. Reset and ride around the block, and after 2-3 minutes, clunk and alternating lights!
So, a read for errors is due tomorrow!!!
I have disconnected the neutral switch for now,...
Weather was not so good to do the check for its position...
Monday morning promises to be cold and sunny, so I will crawl under the bike to check that too!
When reset, however, the ABS starts "normally" every time. So battery is good it seems...
TBC...
At the same time, I heard the arming "clunk"! And no ABS thereafter.
At work, I reset the ABS...
In the evening, with ABS reset, after about 10 minutes again, clunk, and lights!
SOMETHING is wrong, definitely!
Saturday morning we "disabled" the "ABS mod" and had the lights alternating at key on. Reset and ride around the block, and after 2-3 minutes, clunk and alternating lights!
So, a read for errors is due tomorrow!!!
I have disconnected the neutral switch for now,...
Weather was not so good to do the check for its position...
Monday morning promises to be cold and sunny, so I will crawl under the bike to check that too!
When reset, however, the ABS starts "normally" every time. So battery is good it seems...
TBC...
steliosh
Registered user
A couple more notes!
I noted this yesterday in a couple of rides, and confirmed today another 2-3 times on the way to the dealer and at the mechanic's presence:
As long as I do the reset of the ABS with the steering pointing straight or to the left, the ABS stays triggered and all is fine, no matter how long the ride is! I can even hear it retrigger at times, when in traffic, moving away from a stoplight...
As soon as I turn the steering to the right, the ABS starts flashing!
We did this at the dealers, too: Had the steering at any angle to the right, the ABS would simply not reset!
Anyway, they put the official diagnostic device on the bike (every time the ABS was flashing) and the diagnosis showed the front wheel sensor. Every time!
Having checked the Ohm, as I said at my previous post, I guess there MUST be something in the cable that goes from the sensor, under the front mudguard to somewhere below the tank to finally connect to a plug.
I also have a used 1996 front wheel ABS sensor to try...
More research to follow!
Oh... about that priest, anyone?!
Please!
I smelled fuel when starting the bike this morning! Seems one of the fuel quick couplings was leaking very slowly... It turned out the o-ring of one of the "male" plugs was dinged a bit. A new o-ring (at no cost!) later the bike is fuel-tight again.
Oh, today's costs: Zero! The guys at my local BMW are quite nice!
I noted this yesterday in a couple of rides, and confirmed today another 2-3 times on the way to the dealer and at the mechanic's presence:
As long as I do the reset of the ABS with the steering pointing straight or to the left, the ABS stays triggered and all is fine, no matter how long the ride is! I can even hear it retrigger at times, when in traffic, moving away from a stoplight...
As soon as I turn the steering to the right, the ABS starts flashing!
We did this at the dealers, too: Had the steering at any angle to the right, the ABS would simply not reset!
Anyway, they put the official diagnostic device on the bike (every time the ABS was flashing) and the diagnosis showed the front wheel sensor. Every time!
Having checked the Ohm, as I said at my previous post, I guess there MUST be something in the cable that goes from the sensor, under the front mudguard to somewhere below the tank to finally connect to a plug.
I also have a used 1996 front wheel ABS sensor to try...
More research to follow!
Oh... about that priest, anyone?!
Please!
I smelled fuel when starting the bike this morning! Seems one of the fuel quick couplings was leaking very slowly... It turned out the o-ring of one of the "male" plugs was dinged a bit. A new o-ring (at no cost!) later the bike is fuel-tight again.
Oh, today's costs: Zero! The guys at my local BMW are quite nice!
steliosh
Registered user
A new (used, actually) front wheel ABS sensor bought today for a silly amount (10 euros actually, with the promise to return it if it wasnt working!). First I measured it: 137 Ohms... But my "old" and faulty one also measures 136 or so...
Installed it (with all that entails to do it: remove calipers, front wheel, front lower fender, seat, tank) and twenty minutes later I was charging up (and then down) my local twisties!
ABS at full song, I dared to push the brakes wherever possible! Now I need brake pads! Oh well!
So... all it remains now, is the neutral switch...
BTW, I have temporarily disabled the "ABS" mod, and the bike starts with correct lights of ABS, every time.
Installed it (with all that entails to do it: remove calipers, front wheel, front lower fender, seat, tank) and twenty minutes later I was charging up (and then down) my local twisties!
ABS at full song, I dared to push the brakes wherever possible! Now I need brake pads! Oh well!
So... all it remains now, is the neutral switch...
BTW, I have temporarily disabled the "ABS" mod, and the bike starts with correct lights of ABS, every time.
