Hi....Does anyone know whether you can still buy these cheaper alternatives to the Booster Plug product, and more importantly have users noticed any improvements in fuelling?! Thanks
Accelerator Plug
- Thread starter Brodie13
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They are only a resistor, They increase the reported resistance of the air temperature sensor mounted in the air box.
Will not do any harm as the ECU and closed loop fuelling system is quite capable of altering the fuel trims to render the added resistor useless
Will not do any harm as the ECU and closed loop fuelling system is quite capable of altering the fuel trims to render the added resistor useless
What it actually does is trick the motronic into seeing an inlet Air temp several degrees below the ambient. I seem to recall about 10 degrees C below ambient, maybe more.
As colder air is much more denser than warm air, the motronic is tricked into pushing more fuel in the open loop range to maintain the fuel air ratio. So the bike runs richer. But once the bike gets into the closed loop then the lambda probes cut the fuel back irrespective of the air temp reading.
Way back in the last century, I fitted one as an experiment. It soon went in the bin……
As colder air is much more denser than warm air, the motronic is tricked into pushing more fuel in the open loop range to maintain the fuel air ratio. So the bike runs richer. But once the bike gets into the closed loop then the lambda probes cut the fuel back irrespective of the air temp reading.
Way back in the last century, I fitted one as an experiment. It soon went in the bin……
Thanks for the info chaps. So can I deduce from this that if I were to fit a decat exhaust system and K and N filter to the Twin Cam, the same ‘closed loop’ will eventually and automatically adjust the fuelling to suit? If this is correct, I’m assuming this is done only within certain parameters, otherwise Hilltop bespoke ECU mapping and the like would be unnecessary? Thanks again for the knowledgeWhat it actually does is trick the motronic into seeing an inlet Air temp several degrees below the ambient. I seem to recall about 10 degrees C below ambient, maybe more.
As colder air is much more denser than warm air, the motronic is tricked into pushing more fuel in the open loop range to maintain the fuel air ratio. So the bike runs richer. But once the bike gets into the closed loop then the lambda probes cut the fuel back irrespective of the air temp reading.
Way back in the last century, I fitted one as an experiment. It soon went in the bin……
The parameters that the system will cope with are a lot wider than small changes such as exhaust & air filter will make.
The fuelling in closed loop is corrected instantly and only takes seconds to learn the new settings.
In open loop the ecu learns from the long term fuel trims over time to keep the Air fuel ratio at stoichiometric ( an AFR of 14.7 to 1).
If you wish to run a different AFR the lambda sensors need to be removed and a power commander or similar fitted this will make the system run like they did in the dark ages.
Or in this century you fool the lambda sensors into thinking they are running and maintaining an AFR of 14.7 to 1 when in fact you run 13.8 to 1 or your preferred mixture by using AF-XEID`s or similar.
Before I am corrected on the AFR of E10 fuel I appreciate that the stoichiometric of E10 is 14.3 to 1 , the op`s bike is a TC and recommended to run on E5 98 octane.
The fuelling in closed loop is corrected instantly and only takes seconds to learn the new settings.
In open loop the ecu learns from the long term fuel trims over time to keep the Air fuel ratio at stoichiometric ( an AFR of 14.7 to 1).
If you wish to run a different AFR the lambda sensors need to be removed and a power commander or similar fitted this will make the system run like they did in the dark ages.
Or in this century you fool the lambda sensors into thinking they are running and maintaining an AFR of 14.7 to 1 when in fact you run 13.8 to 1 or your preferred mixture by using AF-XEID`s or similar.
Before I am corrected on the AFR of E10 fuel I appreciate that the stoichiometric of E10 is 14.3 to 1 , the op`s bike is a TC and recommended to run on E5 98 octane.
14.3:1 does that explain why my old bike runs horribly on it? the idle issue I have is still there (checked carb balance yesterday and its was nearly spot on, just off idle tweaked the right pot and its slightly happier but at idle it almost can't run) .... I now realise Esso have done the dirty on us
the stuff they sell today is odd - my air-cooled hex head is drinking fuel like its got a hole in the tank and my car has increased its fuel usage by 32% yet both ran great on old Esso 99. Very oddly - the car had lost 32% on Esso E10, I went to Esso E0 99 and got a little back but then last week I put half a tank for adsa grot E10 and the cars MPG shot up 17%
So it seems Esso have invented a new fuel that allows the engine to just about run but nothing happens aside from the tank goes empty before you get 3 miles up the road (exact same issue across 4 vehicles when I put that now rubbish fuel in them) - Yet all I wanted was to escape the dangers of ethanol as they say there's none in their 99 octane rated stuff ( had similar sorry story with Shell since E10 rubbish turned up)
I had one, total waste of time and money, don’t bother.
Thanks for the info.....thread closed
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