Actually used a puncture repair kit ???

Ive used a stop n go on motorcycles and my car. I left the plug in the car tyre and did another 20000+ miles with no problem.
Ditto. Had a puncture in my 1150 rear. Mended it at the side of the road with the OE kit and it went on for another several thousand without problems.
 
Stop and Go everytime for me. Easy to use and effective repairs. Got me out of trouble on M1 a few years ago....
 
If you do the odd starbucks run, you may never need a kit, I have stop&go and a few rats tails, been lucky myself, and only used twice on total strangers.
 
As its a puncture thread what are readers views on compressors. I bought an airman pump a few years back tried it out but it seemed pretty slow to inflate. I carry CO2 to start off the inflation but touch wood have never had a puncture.

Which is the best inflator ?

Yep wired it in separate so no canbus problems. Tried doing searches but couldn't get a suitable hit.

I use one similar to this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/rac-comp...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNbn7YjI9NgCFUmkUQodXA8H6w

That one may have a car type 12V plug on it, but you can get ones intended for use with bikes. The one I bought had an Optimate style connector so for powering it I have a fused Optimate type tail permanently wired to the battery and tucked up out of the way above the starter motor. It can reach either wheel from there with the length of lead it came with. These things need a high power source, probably about 10 amps so I don't think you could power it off the bike's 12V socket even if it had the right connector.

Mine has been 100% reliable and had a fair amount of use due to needing to top up a slow leak on holiday.
 
These things need a high power source, probably about 10 amps so I don't think you could power it off the bike's 12V socket even if it had the right connector.

I have an Airman and it trips the power to the standard DIN socket as soon as it's switched on. I use a seperate socket connected to one of the outlets on my Fuzeblock.
 
Don’t be afraid to give the stop and go plug a good pull to ensure it’s seated... I learnt that after seeing the plugs when changing the tyres
 
Don’t be afraid to give the stop and go plug a good pull to ensure it’s seated... I learnt that after seeing the plugs when changing the tyres

I made that mistake the second time I used it - the plug wasn't fully seated and had a very slow leak. Took it to the local tyre shop and the plug was about 5mm from being fully seated.
 
I use one similar to this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/rac-comp...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNbn7YjI9NgCFUmkUQodXA8H6w

That one may have a car type 12V plug on it, but you can get ones intended for use with bikes. The one I bought had an Optimate style connector so for powering it I have a fused Optimate type tail permanently wired to the battery and tucked up out of the way above the starter motor. It can reach either wheel from there with the length of lead it came with. These things need a high power source, probably about 10 amps so I don't think you could power it off the bike's 12V socket even if it had the right connector.

Mine has been 100% reliable and had a fair amount of use due to needing to top up a slow leak on holiday.

Sods law I have just had a garage clear out. I binned a Audi and Toyota compressor both unused. It would have been good to try them out and check their performance against an Airman pump. I would have thought as car tyre inflator they would have been better. Wired directly to the battery with a 10amp fuse and used with the engine running should reduce any electrical issues.
 
I used the Stop-N-Go which worked for a while but - I suspect the frayed edges of the wire in the tyre cut through the plug and the button part fell off into the tyre after 50 or 60 miles.
On another occasion it worked fine.
I'd treat them as a get you home repair then get a patch put over it on the inside.
 
I have a Dynaplug kit and an AA compressor that was cheap with a petrol purchase. I changed the cigarette lighter plug to a DIN plug so it fits the bike.

Fortunately, I've not had to use it. However, I only recently have been riding a bike with tubeless tyres and I seem to have done more miles on my tubed bikes.
 
been using stop and go mushrooms for years, with good results in many bike and car tyres. Hardest repairs have been when the nail or screw goes in at an angle and "bounces" off the steel core so that putting in the sleeve first to ensure it will fit, then trying to carefully ream out in the right direction. Only tricky one was at 3am on the M4 heading for a ferry - needed to put two in to a nearly worn tire - that was the only near failure, thank heavens for the compressor and wired socket.
 
I have a Dynaplug kit and an AA compressor that was cheap with a petrol purchase. I changed the cigarette lighter plug to a DIN plug so it fits the bike.

Fortunately, I've not had to use it. However, I only recently have been riding a bike with tubeless tyres and I seem to have done more miles on my tubed bikes.

Have you checked that it works within the 5A limitation of the bike's socket, while actually pumping up a tyre?
 
You have been very lucky if you've not needed one. I carry a Stop'n'Go kit, Snotty Strings+tools and a pump. Snotty Strings are my preferred repair method, to-date. I reckon the rubber on Stop'n'go plugs wear down MUCH faster than the tyre they're pluggin'.

Huh? Not my experience. StopNgo my recommend. Pay attention to how you 'load' the plug is my only advice. Follow instructions for it.

Wife's car has 3 of the things in the tyres! All successful. Bike one in the rear. Successful. So far.

Having seen the damage that can happen when a car tyre is driven with a long screw in the outer section I'd recommend S&Go for smaller sharps only I'm a car. We usually know straight away about a bike flat don't we.


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