Adjusting paralever bearing again

dibdob69

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We tried to adjust the paralever bearing today but when we tried to loosen the lock nut the pivot pin was turning with it :( We have tighten it back up for now but will i need to heat the lock nut up ? Will this of done any damage is my main worry :augie
 
We tried to adjust the paralever bearing today but when we tried to loosen the lock nut the pivot pin was turning with it :( We have tighten it back up for now but will i need to heat the lock nut up ? Will this of done any damage is my main worry :augie

You will see if there is any damage when you will heat all and unscrew. A friend who did not know about heating, undid the screw and he did not ruin anything. And there was loctite on it.
 
If you have tightened it back up again,i'd say the threads aren't stripped.
Use a heat gun to loosen the loctite and then remove the 32mm nut/pin.
Clean the threads with acetone (nail varnish remover) before refitting.
I dont use loctite on reasssembly without any problems.
 
Could i take the two out together then separate them ?

Yep, although you'll find the swingarm shifts slightly when you remove it and it'll require a little 'jiggling' to get the pinion back in (probably easier with the wheel off).

Just unscrew the pinion / locknut assembly, apply some heat (easy when it's out) and screw the locknut off using a hex bit and a big spanner / socket.

Take the time to clean the old locktite off the pinion, locknut and gearbox threads when it's all dissassembled.
 
so if i can wiggle my rear wheel at quarter to three position, is that my paralever bearing?
When i put the rear brake on it doesnt change the loosness.:nenau
 
Sounds like the wheel might fall off.
 
so if i can wiggle my rear wheel at quarter to three position, is that my paralever bearing?
When i put the rear brake on it doesnt change the loosness.:nenau

Yes,with the rear brake applied,you are clamping the wheel to the hub,taking out any slack in the big bearing;but the paralever bearings are still free to move.
 
final check before i get the acetone and loctite out!

Rear wheel brake off - a slight play when held at 12 and 6. Noticeable play when held at 3 and 6 - say 1-2mm at tyre?

Rear wheel brake on - ditto rear wheel brake off as described above.

Steptoe has put some fantastic detailed and useful advice on regarding this worry (!) so I am pretty comfortable that my FD bearing isnt stuffed.

Does anyone think, that as my bike has just flicked over 30K miles this morning, that it may be worth me getting my copper drifts out and putting in a new FD bearing whilst i'm on with it?

ALSO

The paralever bearings holding the drive in place where I am about to tamper with the free moving stud/lock nut/fixed bolt - is it worth me replacing them while I am on as well for peace of mind? DOes anyone know if these just fall out or do they need drifting out and pressing back? I know about the loctite otpions by the way.. :thumb

Loads of questions, many thanks if you have time to help out... :blagblah
 
final check before i get the acetone and loctite out!

Rear wheel brake off - a slight play when held at 12 and 6. Noticeable play when held at 3 and 6 - say 1-2mm at tyre?

Rear wheel brake on - ditto rear wheel brake off as described above.

Steptoe has put some fantastic detailed and useful advice on regarding this worry (!) so I am pretty comfortable that my FD bearing isnt stuffed.

Does anyone think, that as my bike has just flicked over 30K miles this morning, that it may be worth me getting my copper drifts out and putting in a new FD bearing whilst i'm on with it?

ALSO

The paralever bearings holding the drive in place where I am about to tamper with the free moving stud/lock nut/fixed bolt - is it worth me replacing them while I am on as well for peace of mind? DOes anyone know if these just fall out or do they need drifting out and pressing back? I know about the loctite otpions by the way.. :thumb

Loads of questions, many thanks if you have time to help out... :blagblah

My take FWIW:

FD bearing: I'd leave alone unless its failed - if you want to be ultra careful buy a new seal, pop the old seal out and check it as described in Steptoe's sticky above. A properly shimmed bearing should last a long time.

Paralever pinions: check them when you remove them - its very unlikely that they'll be unserviceable - I was unlucky in that a seized bearing had galled against the pinion. You can get replacements in a couple of days if the worst happens.

Paralever bearings: You'll need to drift them out. Find the right sized socket and 6" extension to use as a drift (assemble them inside the swingarm). Or you can make a press out of threaded rod / bolts / washers / sockets etc (or of course use a proper bearing puller if you've got one). I've 'drifted' and 'pressed' in the past. A bit of heat helps. Make sure you put the new ones in the right way round :D

good luck :thumb2
 
Does anyone think, that as my bike has just flicked over 30K miles this morning, that it may be worth me getting my copper drifts out and putting in a new FD bearing whilst i'm on with it?

ALSO

The paralever bearings holding the drive in place where I am about to tamper with the free moving stud/lock nut/fixed bolt - is it worth me replacing them while I am on as well for peace of mind? DOes anyone know if these just fall out or do they need drifting out and pressing back? I know about the loctite otpions by the way.. :thumb

Loads of questions, many thanks if you have time to help out... :blagblah

The paralever bearings need heating,the inside bit should just fall out but you need to drift the outer race from the swingarm.At 30K,they are probably shot,so at about £15 each they may be a good investment.
The big bearing (£30 odd each) may be a harder call.I changed mine at 54K and it was still good.It was so tight a fit i had to get a bike shop to remove the old bearing.The new one should also need its shimming checked.Time and money again.Is there any evidence of the bearing breaking up to be seen in the oil?.Small silver metalflakes?.Would it be worth opening up the final drive to have a good look at the old bearing/check for damage?.
 
Seeing Colban's reply has made me think.
I assumed that you were replacing the bearings anyway - as he says if I was taking the FD off at 30k, I'd change them as a matter of course.
 
i was hoping just to adjust the paralever and not replace anything ha ha!

I guess i will see the condition of the races to the paralever when those bolts come out... fingers crossed!:eek:
 
i was hoping just to adjust the paralever and not replace anything ha ha!

I guess i will see the condition of the races to the paralever when those bolts come out... fingers crossed!:eek:

Spin the bearing with your finger when the pinions are out - if it feels at all rough or notchy, replace it.

If it looks like mine did, definitely replace it :D

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/1rjP6tMR5i4g61VebiT1qg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/ScdTzP5inRI/AAAAAAAABZI/Yd00_HG4Rrg/s800/IMG_4349.JPG" /></a>
 
all adjusted and its like i've reconnected the front and rear of the bike bac together again...:clap

cant believe how bad my bike must have been before....

what a job to get that loctite away though!

thanks to anyone who helped - appreciated :thumb2
 


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