Adjusting the 1100 clutch operating arm.

[Taipan]

Anyone know the correct procedure for adjusting the clutch at the gearbox end?
Many thanks.

 

[richie]

Leave a bit of play in it, stops the clutch slip when the Nitro is turned on (you know what I mean).

Seriously my clutch slipped three times about 2000 miles ago and I adjusted it, since then, touch wood, no slip...

Worth a go...
You'll need a good bit of light on it and a dry floor to see what your doing, bastid place to get to with tools.

13mm and 11mm from memory (sockets I mean) The smaller one can be turned by hand if its all clean and freed up...

 

[richie]

I'll be in Dunmow on Monday night, hopefully... Come round and I'll give you a hand...

PM me

 

[richie]

BTW when I read your postscript it ays you know a lot about me. Therefore I'll let you find the house I'm staying in

 

[Taipan]

BTW when I read your postscript it ays you know a lot about me. Therefore I'll let you find the house I'm staying in

Tis true, i am all seeing all knowing nitro powered 1100 rider. Sadly my powers dont run to clutch arm adjustment! However, I did just find this on the IBMWR site.

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Clutch Adjustment - Paul Glaves
The clutch adjustment at the hand lever specified as 7mm when resistance is felt
is a bit deceptive, or at least ambiguous. Proper clutch adjustment procedure -
which BMWNA says is critical to proper clutch operation is:
a. adjust the knurled adjuster at the hand grip so that exactly 12mm is between
the knurled adjuster and the knurled lock ring.
b. Loosen the 13mm lock nut on the adjusting pin (small bolt) on the clutch lever
at the rear of the transmission. Rotate the 10mm head on the adjusting pin until
there is 7mm play when the clutch lever is pulled, measured as shown in the
owners (riders) manual. Tighten the locknut. Old trick: To keep the adjusting
pin from rotating out of adjustment as you tighten the lock nut, simply pull in the
clutch. This puts pressure on the pin and keeps it from turning if the threads are
clean. What is light resistance? They are really talking about free play, where
the pull is only against a small spring and not against the clutch pressure plate
spring itself. This is an easy one finger pull up until you are trying to compress
the pressure plate spring.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Clutch Adjustment - Bob Gorman
A just released service bulletin revises the clutch freeplay specification to 12mm
between the knurled nuts and 7mm at the lever. This is revised from 10mm and
5mm respectively.
It appears that improper clutch adjustment has been the cause of many shifting
problems. In order to obtain the new clearances you'll need to adjust the clutch at
the motor. You can have your dealer do it next time you have service or you can
easily do it yourself.
Equipment:
13mm deep well socket
10mm socket
socket swivel attachment
socket wrench
6" socket extension
13mm box end wrench cutoff to 2"
Procedure:
Place the extension on the wrench
place the swivel on the end of the extension
place the 13mm socket on the swivel
approach from the left side of the bike
reach in and just crack loose the 13mm locking nut at the rear of the tranny
place the 2" 13mm box end over the locknut. This will keep it from turning
remove the 13mm socket and replace it with the 10mm socket
reach in and back out the 10mm adjusting nut until you achieve spec.
give the 10mm nut another 1/2 turn
remove the 2" 13mm wrench from the locking nut
replace the 10mm socket with the 13mm socket
reach in and tighten the lock nut.
In the process the 10mm will regain that 1/2 turn you put in.
The entire adjustment takes, maybe, 2 minutes.