Adjusting the left hand switch cluster

[Bigtrucknuts]

So I'd like to rotate the left cluster clockwise from the left hand side. To give the indicators a better position. Iv slackened of the two tiny bolts holding it together but the thing will not move. I have the sat nav wheel fitted. I'd like to rotate that through 180 degrees but I think I remember someone saying that wasn't possible.

Anyway. What have I missed? Or is it fixed in a set position somehow?

 

[Deleted account 181015003]

Most switch gear has a location pin that locates in a small hole in the handlebars twisting it could break this pin off if your not careful

 

[mrtee43]

There is usually a locating pin thingy moulded on the switchgear that locates in a hole in the handlebars to stop the switches rotating.


Snap !

 

[Bigtrucknuts]

No, I didn't snap it thank you.

Bit BMW knows best tho. Think I'll take it to bits and remove the locating plug.
Hmmmm, does it then qualify as a project bike?

 

[SMB]

So I'd like to rotate the left cluster clockwise from the left hand side. To give the indicators a better position. Iv slackened of the two tiny bolts holding it together but the thing will not move. I have the sat nav wheel fitted. I'd like to rotate that through 180 degrees but I think I remember someone saying that wasn't possible.

Anyway. What have I missed? Or is it fixed in a set position somehow?

The left hand heated grip is bolted to the handle bar. The switch gear plugs into the heated grip.
So the only way you can rotate the switch gear is to unbolt the heated grip, drill the handle bar and then bolt it all up.
There were some photos of the installation and if I can find it I will post the link.
SMB

 

[SMB]

http://ukgser.com/forums/showthread...ram-for-the-Watercooled&p=3768759#post3768759
There is a picture that I posted of the heated grip on reply no. 13
Here you will see the plug that fits into the switch cluster. If you peel back the very end of the heated grip near the wheelie thing you will see the little bolt that goes right though the handle bar that keeps the heated grip fixed and hence the switch cluster.
Hope this helps

 

[Nick V]

I've done this on every BMW I've owned, except my old R1100S and the LC.

BMW are unique in the way they fix the switchgear to the bars.
With Japanese switchgear (as used by almost every other bike manufacturer), rotating it to get a better angle to work at is easy - the screws that hold the two halves of the switchgear together also 'clamp' the switch cluster to the bars. Why BMW thought it necessary to screw the clusters to the bars in such a way that they can't move is beyond me... it must have something to do with reducing assembly times and unit cost.

I can't speak for the LC (yet) because I haven't yet done this.
But on the oil-cooled R1200GSAs and F800GS/S/ST I owned, I did the following. Maybe the procedure can be adapted to the new bikes:

RH switchgear:

1. Remove the outer forward shell from the cluster (I think the screws are either T10 or T15).
2. You will see a stainless steel Torx fastener of either T25 or T30. Loosen this, rotate cluster to optimum position, tighten screw. (It's a lot easier to get the right position if you put the bike on the centre stand and sit in the saddle, with someone else making fractional adjustments to the cluster position.)

LH switchgear:

1. Remove the LH hand guard and bar end (usually a T55 Torx).
2. Remove the outer forward shell from the cluster (screw size as above).
3. Displace and disconnect the connectors for switchgear electrics and heated grips. You will see two T10/15 screws holding the grip tube to the switchgear, diagonally opposite one another. Remove these.
4. Partially peel back the inner edge of the LH grip rubber. There are two self-tapping screws holding the grip tube to the bar - one upper, one lower. Remove these.
5. Slide the grip tube off the bar, and remove the LH switchgear.
6. Sit in the saddle, and get someone else to make fractional adjustments to the cluster position until you're happy with it.
7. At this point, the other person should mark the new position of the self-tapping screw holes in the bars, relative to the countersunk holes in the grip tube. You will now have to drill and countersink two new holes in the grip tube to match the position of the bar holes.
8. With step 7 complete, remove the grip tube.
9. Take note of where the LH switchgear was positioned. Wind three or four turns of duct tape around the bars at that location.
10. Slot the LH switchgear over the duct tape windings. Temporarily secure the outer switchgear cover in place - all the buttons and controls should operate as normal. If they don't, remove the duct tape half a winding at a time until al controls can be operated normally.
11. Remove the outer switchgear cover.
12. Re-install the grip tube and use the original self-tappers to secure it in place.
13. Re-install the LH switchgear, connect and reposition all electrical connectors, and re-install the outer switchgear cover.

 

[Bigtrucknuts]

Wow, thanks for the detailed reply.

Locking the switch in place like that is just mad.
Sometimes it's as if BMW still want to retain ownership of MY bike by fixing random things in place so I can't mess with it.

I will anyway. It's sunny weekends for a wile in the UK so first rainy weekend and get the drill out to adjust my switch a few degrees, no still sounds wrong.

 

[Nick V]

Wow, thanks for the detailed reply.

Locking the switch in place like that is just mad.
Sometimes it's as if BMW still want to retain ownership of MY bike by fixing random things in place so I can't mess with it.

My pleasure, bud!

There's a way around everything.

I was none too pleased that BMW had moved away from the system of reversible handlebar clamps, going back to the same setup as on the '04 to '07 R1200GSs. Not only that, the bar diameter is up from 28mm to 32mm, which means that generic handlebar raisers don't fit anymore, either.
It's not just us, though. KTM have done the same on some of their newer bikes.