Advice on hub repair please.

paganman

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After a weeks 2 up touring and 18700 miles on the clock, it appears my rear hub is on it's way out on my 2007 adventure. Only had the bike for 2 months and bought privately, so no come back there.
I realise they're an issue with gs's but can't believe mine is knackered so early, there's play in the rear wheel when gripped top and bottom, plus it's leaking hub oil from the seal.
I'm reasonably competent with the spanners and am looking to fix this cost effectively. Checked the factory manual and it looks like a fairly involved process.
Unfortunately I'm having an op. next week though so heavy work is out for a while, so can anyone recommend an independent in North yorkshire that can do this, or part of it, for a reasonable cost.
New to BMW, so if I'm missing something obvious or any tips or advice regarding repairing this gratefully received.
 
Got any service history? if so I'd take it to that dealers and see what they will do for you. Its a very well known fault with some final drives, you may get some help :nenau
 
Mikeyboy does a good rebuild or contact Steve at Scriminger Engineering in Sleaford.

As already said, you could contact BMW to see if they would do something for you.
 
Do a search on here mate, steptoe ( a member) changed his crown bearing on the road side..Yes he's a god when it comes to gs's but if he can do it on the side of the road you can do it in your garage..
 
Do a search on here mate, steptoe ( a member) changed his crown bearing on the road side..Yes he's a god when it comes to gs's but if he can do it on the side of the road you can do it in your garage..

That's on an 1150 which is a completely different design to the 1200.
 
There is always some play top to bottom.
I like you have been worried about the rear drive after suffering a leaky seal in the middle of France when touring 2 up with camping gear and waaaay too much luggage. I rode it home, did another 2k miles, changed the seal+oil and so far done another 3k miles without a problem.
Mine (07) doesn't have a breather to allow air to expand out of when the bike is overloaded+ridden at speed for hours on end so the air+oil has to expand somewhere and it comes out of the seal.
I would change oil & seal and just keep an eye on it. I've given up worrying and now just ride it without a 2nd thought.
 
Has anybody considered fitting a vent tube to the older non vented final drive casings? For neatness a length of braided brake hose could be clipped up the swing arm to end under the fuel tank. This would allow air to move but the long tube would prevent dirt getting in and the height would stop oil seeping out. The same thing could be done with 3mm bore neoprene or silicone tube and a brass hose nipple but look like a cheap job compared to braided hose.
 
When I looked there wasn't a suitable location already machined to take the banjo bolt or similar, so you would have to strip it down to get a hole machined in. In my experience the problem seems to occur when putting the back end under excess load/higher speeds so you might aswell just change the seal if it leaks and check the oil level.
 
There is always some play top to bottom.
I like you have been worried about the rear drive after suffering a leaky seal in the middle of France when touring 2 up with camping gear and waaaay too much luggage. I rode it home, did another 2k miles, changed the seal+oil and so far done another 3k miles without a problem.
Mine (07) doesn't have a breather to allow air to expand out of when the bike is overloaded+ridden at speed for hours on end so the air+oil has to expand somewhere and it comes out of the seal.
I would change oil & seal and just keep an eye on it. I've given up worrying and now just ride it without a 2nd thought.

Same as mine. Changed around 2,500 miles ago and still fine - a £10.00 fix with no special tools required or heavy work
 
When I looked there wasn't a suitable location already machined to take the banjo bolt or similar, so you would have to strip it down to get a hole machined in. In my experience the problem seems to occur when putting the back end under excess load/higher speeds so you might aswell just change the seal if it leaks and check the oil level.

I hadnt thought about a banjo bolt, but could one be used in place of the oil filler or tapped into the filler plug. Im only thinking aloud but it sounds plausible.
 
I hadnt thought about a banjo bolt, but could one be used in place of the oil filler or tapped into the filler plug. Im only thinking aloud but it sounds plausible.

The hole where you fill it is the speed sensor hole. The other larger bolt is the drain plug at 9 o clock position.
 
Hi, you say leaking and play, how much oil is leaking and how much is the play? There is 1mm limit I think, Test with back brake on to see if the play is still there or not. If still there, means check hub spline fit onto drive shaft. Seeping oil is not necessarily a problem, possible overfilled or just a bit hot. Did you wipe it and see if it recurs? Outer seal change takes 10 minutes, lie bike on it's side to save the oil.
 
Thanks for all the top advice, changed the seal and drained and refilled the bevel box with the required amount.
So far all seems ok and local dealers mechanic reckons bearings are fine.
Does seem a bit scarey the amount of people who've had bearing failures though, so I'll keep an eye on eBay for a suitable spare.
:thumb
 
Thanks for all the top advice, changed the seal and drained and refilled the bevel box with the required amount.
So far all seems ok and local dealers mechanic reckons bearings are fine.
Does seem a bit scarey the amount of people who've had bearing failures though, so I'll keep an eye on eBay for a suitable spare.
:thumb
 
You don't hear from the silent majority who don't have a problem

Or those who don't post on here asking for advice but just pay up or use the paid for extended warranty to correct.
 
They probably are the majority but with the numbers of bikes sold, even a few % adds up to lots problem parts.
 
Bastard things started leaking again! Just a minor film of oil after some "spirited" riding. I used a proper tool to seat the new seal and injected bang on the right amount of oil via a veterinary syringe.
Are these bloody things not designed to be ridden hard or loaded 2 up, I was looking forward to a hassle free shaft drive when I got this bike, but wish i could have a chain and scott oiler now. Loads less bother and a doddle to replace when worn out.
Grrrrrrrrr!
Thing is, it is such a lovely bike to ride.
Anyone know of a permanent fix for this issue? Or should I just buy the new KTM explorer!
 
How much is the correct amount of oil in the FD? I believe BMW now recommend a smaller quantity than originally, presumably to allow more room for expansion when hot.
 


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