AF-XIED for R1200 LC

I can’t tell exactly but I don’t think so. Follow the wire from the O2 sensor. On my bike they are under the exhaust pipe on each side, or nearly so.

Thanks Roger, yes the start is under there, tried to follow the wire up, but then cannot see behind the engine, will try again later as was a bit tired last night.
 
I also struggle to identify the connector from the picture. On the other hand, the connectors for the O2 sensor are different from all other connectors on the bike, so if it fits it is the correct one...
 
Lookied at the pictures once more.
The connectors are placed way lower on the bike.
On the left side you will find the connector close to the sidestand, and on the right side, start looking in front/below of the brake pedal...
 
Lookied at the pictures once more.
The connectors are placed way lower on the bike.
On the left side you will find the connector close to the sidestand, and on the right side, start looking in front/below of the brake pedal...

Yep thanks Knut I have seen them, and I agree they are the ones, but I just thought there would be some more on the bike, further up, but it seems not, seems the 2017 onwards bikes only have them at the bottom, the older wetheads seem to have had them behind the big black tube that goes into the Head.
 
Yep thanks Knut I have seen them, and I agree they are the ones, but I just thought there would be some more on the bike, further up, but it seems not, seems the 2017 onwards bikes only have them at the bottom, the older wetheads seem to have had them behind the big black tube that goes into the Head.

One way you can know for sure is that the cable running from the lambda sensor to the harness has four wires and the color order is: white, white, gray, black. The wires going to the ecu are different colors.
 
One way you can know for sure is that the cable running from the lambda sensor to the harness has four wires and the color order is: white, white, gray, black. The wires going to the ecu are different colors.

Thanks Roger will have another back breaking look under the bike, the ones at the bottom are easy to get to, was just looking to hide cables a little more, but seems at the moment these are the only one,s available...:beerjug:
 
Well all installed made a few pictures, right side of bike was more of a pain, cables are just long enough to be able to put the black boxes under the seat, the right hand side was a lot easier, then took half and hour trying to get them in a position where seat closed no problem on high front low rear, all in all, it should be an hours job, but the time wasted, trying to think where to pass the cables etc, and not making any mistakes took me 3 hours, but bonus was cold beer in the garage, some pictures below.



















 
Get out now and enjoy your WOT runs!!!

Sent from a U11

Finishing coffee, cutting the 10 metres of grass, then off to the yonder to see if I feel anything at the beginning, one think is for sure it is solid, them black boxes could knock you out......:D

Also little add on I find important for other bikes.

Having just installed mine last night on my 1200 GS LC which everything engine wise is the same, my only reserve would be where to put the 2 blackboxes, the information on their website is a little outdated as the new blackboxes have the RAM inside so are bigger, so you would need the space below under your seat, and test with seat closed, as I am not sure where else you might be able to put them, anyway, cheap way to find out if they fit under your seat is, cut yourself 2 blocks of wood to the dimensions below, measurements include 3M velcro I added to hold them in place, hope this helps.

3inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 1/2 inches high
 
OK just been out for 2 hour ride, filled the tank and headed for the A5 direction Basel as it has a good stretch of no limit speed so allowed me to open up the throttle a bit, maximum speed was 170 km/h as had topbox on, first impressions that I noticed the vibrations in the footpegs had drastically dropped, and the little bit of vibration I had left in the handlebars seemed to have gone, this is also due to the up and back risers that helped a lot also, the bike itself just seemed to pull itself a lot more smoothly, more power, I do not know, but certainly bike felt like it was happy, after the motorway, I then headed to roads I know where speed chops and changes, and this is where I certainly felt the bike had gotten smoother, this is just the beginning from a stock number 7 BMW setting as they come from Beemerboneyard, fuel consumption went from 5 to 5.1 so hardly nothing considering the speed going down the motorway, so basically pretty happy with first results, and good thing is I can set it how I want depending on the temperatures outside......:D
 
OK just been out for 2 hour ride, filled the tank and headed for the A5 direction Basel as it has a good stretch of no limit speed so allowed me to open up the throttle a bit, maximum speed was 170 km/h as had topbox on, first impressions that I noticed the vibrations in the footpegs had drastically dropped, and the little bit of vibration I had left in the handlebars seemed to have gone, this is also due to the up and back risers that helped a lot also, the bike itself just seemed to pull itself a lot more smoothly, more power, I do not know, but certainly bike felt like it was happy, after the motorway, I then headed to roads I know where speed chops and changes, and this is where I certainly felt the bike had gotten smoother, this is just the beginning from a stock number 7 BMW setting as they come from Beemerboneyard, fuel consumption went from 5 to 5.1 so hardly nothing considering the speed going down the motorway, so basically pretty happy with first results, and good thing is I can set it how I want depending on the temperatures outside......:D
You do realise that this is all just subjective

Glad that it has made a difference for you, and that you feel happier with your magnificent steed. That's all that matters.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
Can you explain a little more in technical terms....:nenau
You have spent hard earned drinking vouchers, fitted shiny shiny bling to steed = must be better.

BECAUSE IT IS, OK

As long as you are happy that's all that counts at the end of the day.

There are many routes to satisfaction



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You do realise that this is all just subjective

Glad that it has made a difference for you, and that you feel happier with your magnificent steed. That's all that matters.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

You are trying to equate two alternatives which aren’t the same. In Smogbob’s case:

—he has spent some money.

—he has richened, Closed Loop lambda. If he chooses, he can easily verify this.

—a richer Closed Loop lambda does move the mixture toward Best Power Mixture. This is a well-known characteristic of internal combustion engines.

—as you move from lean toward best power mixture, the engine gets smoother, the exhaust temperature goes down and it produces more torque. All known, all verifiable.

—whether those changes can be detected by smogbob is subjective, only until he chooses to measure them.

—smogbob is happy with the result


This is not the same proposition as:

—one spends some money

—someone does something secret to your bike, that they don’t describe and which they tell you you will never find

—one is happy with the result
 
I have a question on these units. Forgive me if it was asked previously.

There are separate units for left and right.
I presume you must adjust left and right to the same number always for balance.
How would you know if say one unit has failed but the other hasn’t? or sending a slightly different value?
Would it show up as as an O2 sensor failure?
 
I have a question on these units. Forgive me if it was asked previously.

There are separate units for left and right.
I presume you must adjust left and right to the same number always for balance.
How would you know if say one unit has failed but the other hasn’t? or sending a slightly different value?
Would it show up as as an O2 sensor failure?

Only thing I can answer is both units set to same settings, at startup the yellow lights blink 7 times showing that unit is set to 7, both units do the same, if one unit fails you have green and red lights, so surely the green light will be red in case of a problem, that is how I see it for the moment, surely Roger will give a more detailed explanation, as this is new to me, but happy at the moment, and to add if a failure does happen, you just unplug the AF-XIEDS and plug in your O2 sensors and bike will be back to stock, as the ECU learns on its own.
 
I have a question on these units. Forgive me if it was asked previously.

There are separate units for left and right.
I presume you must adjust left and right to the same number always for balance.
How would you know if say one unit has failed but the other hasn’t? or sending a slightly different value?
Would it show up as as an O2 sensor failure?

These are really good questions.

—Yes, both units should always be set to the same value. Balanced AFRs create the smoothest engine. This is reason that the R1200 has two lambda sensors (compared to the R1150 which had one and surged), because with a lean (14.7:1 stoichiometric) mixture, engine smoothness is very susceptible to unequal AFRs.

—If one unit fails, you will notice a change in driveability (added roughness) or your ECU will throw an error code, or both. Sometimes the AF-XIED lights help but I find them confusing.

—In stock form, the lambda sensors aren’t perfectly equal and neither are the AF-XIEDs but they are pretty close. As you richen the mixture, because residual oxygen is consumed, an engine becomes less sensitive (than at 14.7) to AFR imbalances.
 
You are trying to equate two alternatives which aren’t the same. In Smogbob’s case:

—he has spent some money.

—he has richened, Closed Loop lambda. If he chooses, he can easily verify this.

—a richer Closed Loop lambda does move the mixture toward Best Power Mixture. This is a well-known characteristic of internal combustion engines.

—as you move from lean toward best power mixture, the engine gets smoother, the exhaust temperature goes down and it produces more torque. All known, all verifiable.

—whether those changes can be detected by smogbob is subjective, only until he chooses to measure them.

—smogbob is happy with the result


This is not the same proposition as:

—one spends some money

—someone does something secret to your bike, that they don’t describe and which they tell you you will never find

—one is happy with the result
I was being tongue in cheek.

Ultimately, unless there is independent verification before/after) then it is only subjective, it doesn't make it any less real though, does it ?

He made his selection, spent his money and is happy with the outcome, that is all that counts.

I've driven lots of tuned cars (Cosworth and 911), that in my opinion were crap, but the owner was happy.



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I was being tongue in cheek.

Ultimately, unless there is independent verification before/after) then it is only subjective, it doesn't make it any less real though, does it ?

He made his selection, spent his money and is happy with the outcome, that is all that counts.

I've driven lots of tuned cars (Cosworth and 911), that in my opinion were crap, but the owner was happy.



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Didn’t see the tongue in check at first, got it.

But the technique of lambda-shifting using the Innovate LC-2 (which I like to use), AF-XIED or Knutk’s box has been independently verified to richened the Closed Loop mixture on multiple occasions and in several countries. So there’s no doubt about that. And the science that shows you get more torque at mixtures richer than 14.7 is not in doubt. Nor is lower exhaust temperature at richer than 14.7. The only thing that’s subjective is whether you as rider can feel the differences, that is to each one to determine.
 


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