Airhead Bobbins

[Paul Rochdale]

I am presently dismantling my R100GS-Paris Dakar prior to powder coating and I am stuck at one point. The two rearmost bobbins under the battery tray. The lower nuts are shielded by small brackets on the frame cross tube and I cannot get to the lower nuts with any ring or open ended spanner nor socket. It seems I have to get a 12mm(?) open ender and grind the sizes down to get inside the brackets but they'll end up pretty thin.

Of course I could destroy the bobbins and grind the remains out but what about tightening up the nuts of the new bobbins?

Today I disconnected all of the electrics around the top tube of the frame. Many of the block connections were difficult to separate because of the internal corrosion. It's amazing the electrics worked at all. When I rebuilt my 2CV a few years ago, I went through the electrical connections, physically cleaning every joint then spraying the connections with silicon spray grease from Maplins. I've never had a problem since.

 

[mavis cruet]

i think the nuts are welded to the frame, so just unscrew the little blighters.

 

[Shep]

i think the nuts are welded to the frame, so just unscrew the little blighters.

Certainly, the nuts are welded on mine, just buy new bobbins, they do tend to delaminate over time.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

Thanks a lot chaps for the quick replies, that explains it then.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

Little tip..

I always file a couple of flats on the bottom metal washer/plate.
If they are still the useless round buggers.
Makes it easier to get out next time...
Rather than chiselling the fuckers, THEN scratching the frame when chisel slips...{ ONCE in 1975 } Flats ever since ..
DAMHIK

You can get ready made hexagonal ended ones from your local exhaust stockist..
If I remember which one, I'll add later...

 

[Paul Rochdale]

Right, I know this is off topic but it seems pointless to keep starting new threads when I am removing the engine.

Today, finally borrowed a 27mm socket so with the rear swinging arm off, gearbox out, and after lots of tugging, the engine is out. That was a tight squeeze and I can see a few headaches getting it back in without scratching the intended powder coated frame to buggery.

A couple of things surprised me. The front engine mounting stud was longer than the rear one, and looking at this micro-fiche, the front is 315mm and the rear 298mm.

Of the four spacers, three are one size but the fourth is much thicker, and on my bike this was on the front O/S. Is that correct? As this diagram suggests the thicker one might go to the nearside.

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51685&rnd=08102012

(Bugger, I just wanted to show the diagram showing the engine studs and spacers).

 

[Paul Rochdale]

Certainly, the nuts are welded on mine, just buy new bobbins, they do tend to delaminate over time.

You are quite right and once I had the frame on it's side it was easy to see. I sawed through the rubbers then cold cheselled the steel bases and they undid then. The new ones will be Copaslipped and tightened by hand only.

No answers to my last question about spacers and engine mounting studs.