Alaska and the Yukon 2024

[Sgt Bilco]

After a fine evening of decent food and couple of beers, a good nights rest was had by all and we awoke to wall to wall rain which isn't uncommon out here. It's a little known fact that the Alaska coast is actually rain forest so it does get a lot of precipitation.




Say good bye to the bear which just about every establishment has somewhere, on with the wets and we headed out.




Breakfast time in a great little cafe in a town called Hope and it's one of those places where you really wonder how they make a living but they do and it's a regular stop on my trips.



The scenery around these parts is stunning and I have to say I really love the mountains with the mist which sits half way up it's sides. It's pure Alaska in my eyes anyway.





So fully refreshed, we head to the Whittier train tunnel and as we wait, I got chatting with a Canadian fella about his Super Tenere whjch he raved about. Having one myself we obviously decided they trumped the GS in just about every department. He was having a spin around Alaska and was camping wherever he fancied and carried minimum gear. There was barely anything on his bike. They make them tough in these parts.


Still the rain fell as we waited for the tunnel to open for traffic. For those who don't know, theWhittier tunnel runs for about 2.5 miles under the mountain and was built in 1943 as a barge rail connection for the port of Whittier. It's primary use these days to enable the train to collect tourists of the cruise ships which dock Whittier.

The trains run to a schedule and traffic can use the tunnel between rail journeys for the princely sum of $13 per bike return.

We rode through and popped out the other side into, yes you've guessed it, heavy rain so it was straight to a cafe for a well deserved coffee.

It's a nice touristy town when the sun is out but sadly not today.




There is only one way in and out so it was back to the tunnel to head out.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

There must be some major construction somewhere in Whittier as these trucks were bring lot's of material into the town. Probably something to do with the massive cruise ships which are regular visitors.




We then headed back through Anchorage and towards are stop in Palmer where a good feed on giant pizza's was in order at a local ale house as well as a pose for the camera.





The following morning was overcast but the forecast was good for where we were heading. The huge interior of Alaska generally has a different climate from the coast due to the mountain ranges just inland which stop all the rain.

We arrive in a small tourist hot spot called Talkeetna for a brew and a wander around.



The River Sustina here is huge and fed mainly from snow run off. It's just incredible how much water is flowing.




A small market was in town and of course there was a knife stall whcih is always slightly unnerving to us Brits. Some superb hand made high dollar stuff for sale though if that's your bag.



Fuelling up with a big group can be fun and we often take over a whole forecourt. We have two rules out here with fuelling: never pass a fuel station and always top the tanks. Some of the distances between garages can be a little tight and if everyone fills at the same time, I can be confident that no one runs out in the arse end of nowhere.

For instance, this station is right on the junction of the Denali Highway. We are just about to head down to a lodge about 70 miles down the road so it's 140 back. The bikes have a range of abut 210 so we are fine but not filling would leave you a little tight if something happened.

It's takes some people a while to get used to doing this as we are so used to having a garage on the doorstep and it comes as a shock when I say there is no fuel for about 150 miles!!.



The views are stunning as we head across to Mt Denali but she isn't playing ball today and is hiding behind a bank of very hight cloud.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

This very strange construction sits forlornly at the side of the road slowly falling apart. It was apparently built as a hotel in the shape of a giant igloo but never got finished.



Then it was time to ride one of my favourite roads in Alaska, the Denali Highway. It's hard packed dirt with a little gravel so very easy to ride. They rarely tarmac these side roads as the snow and bitter cold in the winter would just destroy them. Leaving them like this makes it simple to grade them in the summer and snow plow in the winter.





The scenery is just mind blowing especially as we are blessed with some great weather.











And this one just sums it up!



I think we all deserve a beer after a cracking days ride at the Alpine Creek Lodge which is possibly my favourite stop on teh trip. It's in teh arse end of nowhere, you eat whatever they are cooking and they have a bar. What's not to love?

 

[Sgt Bilco]

We awake to a stunning day and after breakfast we head back out and are rewarded with some absolutely breathtaking views. There is something about the air up here which makes everything crystal clear and certainly pictures just don'r really do the place justice.

Mount Denali decided to reveal herself this morning and absolutely towers over the surrounding area. She is a little over 20,000ft and is teh highest peak in North America. I've never seen the summit from this angle before and thanks to Gary and his proper camera for this stunning picture taken from about 50 miles away!!.




Here are a few more pics of the ride on Denali Highway and I'll leave you to just enjoy them.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

We head back to the main highway and head towards Fairbanks which is around 3 hours away.

Stopped is a small town for a coffee and bite to eat.





I love these little old places as you always get a good welcome and a decent bite to eat. Reindeer sausage hot dogs were the order of the day for Alan and Jo.

As a point here, Jo was riding a F750 and her 84 year old Dad was on the back of her partner who is also called Alan. I have to say Alan is a real inspiration for everyone and he had an absolute blast regaling about his wonderful adventures through his life. I hope I'm still doing stuff like this when I'm 84!!



It's then on to Svens Basecamp hostel which is a really quirky little place. It has various tree houses, cabins and bif old scout tents for us. It's a little different but suits our needs fine.







Never sure what people actually think of teh place but I've been here many times and always enjoyed it. We always have a BBQ and it's a lovely change not to be eating restaurant food!!

Rib eyes all round.



I think everyone is enjoying it!

 

[TIJ650]

Totally loving this trip and very envious. I’ve always been fascinated by Alaska since watching Northern Exposure back in 1990! Lol
It’s approximately the same size as UK, France, Spain and Germany combined and by far the biggest State.
When I lived in America, I simply never had the time to go there………Americans don’t do anything long like “a holiday”!!
Great stuff

 

[TIJ650]

………..might sound slightly obnoxious, but I wouldn’t want to do it with such a big group. Two mates tops or even on tod

 

[Ex-Call Centre Chimp]

………..might sound slightly obnoxious, but I wouldn’t want to do it with such a big group. Two mates tops or even on tod

Having done one and hoping to do another I can confirm that's the beauty of Chris' trips. It may be a big group but you're all given the day's routes in advance, advised of the best places to stop for food and where your bed for the night is. You can then join some, all or none of the others for the day, stopping where you want, eating when you want but with the likelihood of seeing some familiar faces along the way as you pass them, they pass you or you bump into one another enjoying coffee and cake.
I don't particularly like people but I made some very good friends on Chris' trip.

 

[TIJ650]

Having done one and hoping to do another I can confirm that's the beauty of Chris' trips. It may be a big group but you're all given the day's routes in advance, advised of the best places to stop for food and where your bed for the night is. You can then join some, all or none of the others for the day, stopping where you want, eating when you want but with the likelihood of seeing some familiar faces along the way as you pass them, they pass you or you bump into one another enjoying coffee and cake.
I don't particularly like people but I made some very good friends on Chris' trip.

I kinda agree, but one of the beauties of Alaska is the distinct lack of people. For such a vast place there’s less than a million people there (officially 700k, but probably one or two on the run from somewhere )
I’ve travelled across Oz and America……….and both times I preferred the middle bit devoid of people.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

………..might sound slightly obnoxious, but I wouldn’t want to do it with such a big group. Two mates tops or even on tod

That can easily be arranged

 

[Sgt Bilco]

After a suprisingly good nights rest in scout tent, we headed north towards the infamous Dalton Highway and Arctic Circle. The weather forecast didn't look brilliant and we had breakfast at the Hilltop Transport Cafe just north of Fairbanks frequented by the Ice Road Truckers



I love this place as it's strictly work, the food is plentiful and relatively cheap. The Denver scramble was excellent and better than it looks:



Stephen ordered the pancakes and immediately regretted it but we'll take them along as spare wheels


All filled and fuelled we left just as the rain started.



And it wasn't long before we hit the first construction zone. The section of road here is 65 miles of excellent tarmac which twists and turns north and is normally a great ride but not this year. Over the years, the surface has got pretty bad with the frost heaves and heavy truck traffic so this year, they have decided to start resurfacing and our American friends really know how to do it.

There were 2 sections of construction covering around 30 miles which really scuppered our progress :-(











The surface can only be described at slippery shite and waiting for pilot cars didn't help.

Eventually, we got top the Dalton itself which is hard packed dirt. Great in the dry but in the wet can be truly horrible and dangerous. As I got towards the Dalton I realised that going would be very slow on it today.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

At least it stopped raining for a bit but the bloody construction continued and we hit 2 stretches of about 20 miles each!!





Many of teh people at the stop signs have dogs not only for company but for keeping the bears away. They do between 10 amd 12 hours a day and earn decent money. It's about $35 ph for the first 8 hours and time and a half after that 7 days a week!!



The road conditions continued to get worse as we slithered our way north. At least the cool and windy weather kept the mossies at bay.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

After taking nearly 6 hours to cover about 160 miles we got to the Yukon Crossing where we spend the night. Normally, we would ditch the luggage and head on up to the Arctic Circle but due to the weather conditions, I decided that we would be going no further.

I've been up here 12 times and know when things aren't looking good and despite the weather at the Yukon Crossing being sunny and windy, the weather up the road wasn't looking good. We are a few days into a great trip and risking everything just to get to a sign really wasn't worth the potential dangers.

Most understood and were happy to chill out for the rest of the day.




Despite the place being right next to the pipeline, the fuel has to be trucked back up here and is around twice the price of anywhere else in Alaska.



The shite all over the bikes is the dirt mixed with Calcium Chloride which they put down when they are grading it. When it dries it goes rock hard but when it's wet, it turns to slippery snot and gets everywhere. It's also very corrosive so riding the Dalton for one of those riders who is an obsessive cleaner would be a nightmare



Here's a map of the Dalton so you can see where it is.



We met 3 guys on KTM's who were heading north and were intent on getting to Coldfoot that night despite the weather. Gary wanted to at least try and get to the Circle sign so he got up at 3-30 and headed north. He managed about 20 miles before the road conditions got too bad and saw the KTM guys camped under the pipe. I didn't like to say I told you so but.........!

We headed back south in the morning in more shite weather



The little Huskie in the pic was an ex sled dog and was tiny. The guy who owns here said that is the normal size for sleds and she will just run and run. She was very friendly as well.



Then it was back to Fairbanks and get the bikes washed to get most of the crap off.

 

[retroman]

Very much enjoying the write-up. This tour would not be for me, but hats-off to those who are enduring enjoying the weather and shite road conditions so that we can read all about it at home

Ride safe, team

 

[Sgt Bilco]

We rode on to Chena Hot Springs to recover and reflect on the last couple of days. Although we didn't get to the Arctic Circle, we went further than most people get and everyone enjoyed it in a bizarre way.

A few of us actually saw a Black Bear and 3 cubs on the Dalton which was the absolute highlight. We just sat there a minute and watched them and no pics I'm afraid.

We sat in the lovely springs and chilled out. These are few stock pics as I think everyone was so knackered, they forgot to take pics.





Headed out the following morning




and caught sight of this big old Moose

 

[Sgt Bilco]

Back down to Fairbanks and to the brilliant Cookie Jar cafe for a great breakfast. One of the many little places I'vce found over the years up here and it never fails to disappoint, especially the Corned Beef hash.





Top up the tanks before heading to North Pole.



We arrive at North Pole where Father Christmas does apparently live if you are an American. It's a strange place as the shop sells Christmas stuff all year round. Good fun having a stroll round though.






So we write all our letters to Santa and head south. The rain finally stops although the roads are still wet but the scenery is fantastic.





We stop for fuel, coffee and cake at a great little old school cafe in Delta Junction.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

Delta is halfway between Fairbanks and Tok and is the official start of the Alcan Highway which runs for over 2000kms to Dawson Creek. I've ridden it a few times and it's an epic ride.

Unfortunately, teh little museum is closed but there is still a bit of history to see.




Feck me, themosquitos are big here!





The road to Tok is just about Arrow straight but teh scenery is superb and what's this? The sun is coming out







Feck me, how many wheels has this fecker got?




The sky is turning blue and wow, what a great ride.

 

[TIJ650]

Back down to Fairbanks and to the brilliant Cookie Jar cafe for a great breakfast. One of the many little places I'vce found over the years up here and it never fails to disappoint, especially the Corned Beef hash.

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Top up the tanks before heading to North Pole.

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We arrive at North Pole where Father Christmas does apparently live if you are an American. It's a strange place as the shop sells Christmas stuff all year round. Good fun having a stroll round though.

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So we write all our letters to Santa and head south. The rain finally stops although the roads are still wet but the scenery is fantastic.

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We stop for fuel, coffee and cake at a great little old school cafe in Delta Junction.

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Love corned beef hash, single thing I miss the most from the States.
Call me shallow?!

 

[SBD]

it never fails to disappoint

I’m guessing this isn’t what you meant…

 

[Sgt Bilco]

I’m guessing this isn’t what you meant…

No and good spot