Thanks, looks good to me......
I think we will need something bigger still not sure about 4x4 or notlots to think about over the next year
Wait 'til you see RickA's new van!!!
Albania – Following the Ottoman trail
- Thread starter louisdut
- Start date
Thanks, looks good to me......
Wait 'til you see RickA's new van!!!
Ooh, looking good! 
Mark
Mark
louisdut
Registered user
Peshkopi to Kukes Day 5
Before our trips a big part of the fun to me is in the planing, I read ride reports & books but getting good information and tracks of other inmates is always good
I spent a fair few hours with my head in google earth making tracks then converting them into GPX for our GPS’s which gave us lots of options on our trip
We had planed to ride Albania 06 track log (in blue on the picture) which followed the river then head to Kukes for the night, now using google earth can be a bit hit and miss for me as I’m no expert (luckily for me we didn’t have to many tracks that didn’t work for us) but this is a great example see the green track marked on the picture it looked like it was a bridge to me I must have been a little unsure as I did make another track marked just incase (pink track) we wanted to ride Albania 020
Not that it was a problem as we were not going to cross the river here anyway but its no bridge
This is were we met George (I think that was his name ?) as we were looking at a few different roads and he kindly showed us the way we wanted to go by leading us on his bike to the edge of the village
Now that looks more like a bridge
Could be difficult at the start
I know lets make a ramp
Ok this mite not be a good crossing point (I’m sure the hardcore of you would give it go)
Looks were its made
So we carried on following the road
What a great place to have some lunch with a view
Then we started to climb and left the river and headed to Kukes
Were I had a hotel way pointed but as we got closer we could see it had not been open for a few years
Nicky had spotted signs to another hotel
Which had bike parking behind these metal doors
Pictures form the hotel roof bar, looks like the blue roof tank sales man has been doing well
After a quick drink we went out to explore Kukes and found out Kukes toke in 450,00 Kosovo refugees in 1999
We sat having drinks in a road side cafe well Nicky toke great pictures of the flag
Yep we were missing our dogs
This is the route we rode
Before our trips a big part of the fun to me is in the planing, I read ride reports & books but getting good information and tracks of other inmates is always good
I spent a fair few hours with my head in google earth making tracks then converting them into GPX for our GPS’s which gave us lots of options on our trip
We had planed to ride Albania 06 track log (in blue on the picture) which followed the river then head to Kukes for the night, now using google earth can be a bit hit and miss for me as I’m no expert (luckily for me we didn’t have to many tracks that didn’t work for us) but this is a great example see the green track marked on the picture it looked like it was a bridge to me I must have been a little unsure as I did make another track marked just incase (pink track) we wanted to ride Albania 020
Not that it was a problem as we were not going to cross the river here anyway but its no bridge
This is were we met George (I think that was his name ?) as we were looking at a few different roads and he kindly showed us the way we wanted to go by leading us on his bike to the edge of the village
Now that looks more like a bridge
Could be difficult at the start
I know lets make a ramp
Ok this mite not be a good crossing point (I’m sure the hardcore of you would give it go)
Looks were its made
So we carried on following the road
What a great place to have some lunch with a view
Then we started to climb and left the river and headed to Kukes
Were I had a hotel way pointed but as we got closer we could see it had not been open for a few years
Nicky had spotted signs to another hotel
Which had bike parking behind these metal doors
Pictures form the hotel roof bar, looks like the blue roof tank sales man has been doing well
After a quick drink we went out to explore Kukes and found out Kukes toke in 450,00 Kosovo refugees in 1999
We sat having drinks in a road side cafe well Nicky toke great pictures of the flag
Yep we were missing our dogs
This is the route we rode
Elle
Registered user
thank you, the photo's tell a great story of your trip - keep going 
louisdut
Registered user
Day 6 - Kukes to Djakovica (Kosovo)
Our planned route was to ride out of Kukes, taking a gravel road following the lake, turning left just before the border
View looking aback at Kukes
Berin & myself enjoying a great track
The closer we got to the border we came across bunkers and watch-towers
Here you can see Kosovo in the background
The track is still looking well used
But as we carried on it started to look less well used
Went to recci the track, you can tell by my look in this picture that it was not good news!
The track ended in steps up to someone’s home
A quick check of the map confirmed that we would need to retrace our steps
This was the route we ended up riding, to me checking out tracks that may or may not work out is all part of the fun
The local security were keeping a close eye on us!
This beast was seriously checking out the HP2
We enjoyed the track in the opposite direction
Just as Nicky stopped to take this picture, a chap came along speaking good English and said he saw us ride by and knew we’d be returning and that they didn’t see many bikes that way!
It was a busy track, but not with the kind of traffic we’re used to!
We were back on the main road, a mixture of good graded gravel and tarmac. We pulled into a petrol station and were talking about getting food and were greeted by a ‘Cockney’ Albanian, living in London back home to visit his family.
This was the feast he arranged for us, this was a real luxury for us as it had been bread & Laughing Cow most days, as it had been so remote.
We passed a disused factory, I commented that if we got stuck we could always spend the night here, but Jane told us this was the kind of place the zombies hang out at!!!
Again, as we got close to the border there were more signs of defence.
The Kosovo border has to be the friendliest border crossing we’ve ever experienced.
I had way-marked the hotel Carshia Jupave , it was good that the borderguards & police had also recommended this, I think it was a mixture of GPS freezing, user error & road works that resulted in us taking an indirect route to the hotel!
A few heads were turned when we ended up having to ride down this cobbled alley to the underground parking
We went for a wander before dinner
We saw the usual sights you’d expect from a town with a history
But we couldn’t work out if this was the ‘in-place’ to buy wedding attire …
Being in the building trade, it’s been a few years since I’ve seen electrical work like this!
Our planned route was to ride out of Kukes, taking a gravel road following the lake, turning left just before the border
View looking aback at Kukes
Berin & myself enjoying a great track
The closer we got to the border we came across bunkers and watch-towers
Here you can see Kosovo in the background
The track is still looking well used
But as we carried on it started to look less well used
Went to recci the track, you can tell by my look in this picture that it was not good news!
The track ended in steps up to someone’s home
A quick check of the map confirmed that we would need to retrace our steps
This was the route we ended up riding, to me checking out tracks that may or may not work out is all part of the fun
The local security were keeping a close eye on us!
This beast was seriously checking out the HP2
We enjoyed the track in the opposite direction
Just as Nicky stopped to take this picture, a chap came along speaking good English and said he saw us ride by and knew we’d be returning and that they didn’t see many bikes that way!
It was a busy track, but not with the kind of traffic we’re used to!
We were back on the main road, a mixture of good graded gravel and tarmac. We pulled into a petrol station and were talking about getting food and were greeted by a ‘Cockney’ Albanian, living in London back home to visit his family.
This was the feast he arranged for us, this was a real luxury for us as it had been bread & Laughing Cow most days, as it had been so remote.
We passed a disused factory, I commented that if we got stuck we could always spend the night here, but Jane told us this was the kind of place the zombies hang out at!!!
Again, as we got close to the border there were more signs of defence.
The Kosovo border has to be the friendliest border crossing we’ve ever experienced.
I had way-marked the hotel Carshia Jupave , it was good that the borderguards & police had also recommended this, I think it was a mixture of GPS freezing, user error & road works that resulted in us taking an indirect route to the hotel!
A few heads were turned when we ended up having to ride down this cobbled alley to the underground parking
We went for a wander before dinner
We saw the usual sights you’d expect from a town with a history
But we couldn’t work out if this was the ‘in-place’ to buy wedding attire …
Being in the building trade, it’s been a few years since I’ve seen electrical work like this!
Elle
Registered user
thanks for sharing your trip, the whole thing looked great
was it expensive to take your bikes from venice?
was it expensive to take your bikes from venice?
Mr K
Registered user
Loving this. That power pole lets me know I'll always have a job ..somewhere..
louisdut
Registered user
thanks for sharing your trip, the whole thing looked great
was it expensive to take your bikes from venice?
Hi
The Venice to Igoumenitsa (Greece) ferry including 2X cabins X2 bikes = £668.02
Cheers
Louis
Ps will get on with the report just got really busy with work
louisdut
Registered user
Day 7 - Djakovica (Kosovo) to Valbone (Albania)
We would have liked to explore Kosovo more as we had only just popped in for the night and heading back to Albania. I’m sure we’ll be back to see more of Kosovo on another trip.
We could have headed to Kasaj where we were going to cross into Albania on a perfectly good tarmac road but where’s the fun it that! So we found an old unpaved road/track that brought us right out by the border crossing.
But we did get feet!
Martin seeing if the were any fish in his boots
We crossed back into Albania with no problems and headed to do a loop in the hills before heading to Fierze to check out the ferry
More signs that we will close to the border again
The track became less used. As it was only a loop we were doing it wasn't a problem to ride the track back to the road and ride down the Fierze.
As we rounded a corner on the track we came across a group of men mining chromium it was a very small mine ( sorry no pictures they weren’t happy about pictures being taken I think Jane may have some video footage) They told us the track ended in about 1k because of a land slide, not sure if this was the truth, but we turned round as they were very insistent that they didn’t want us to carry on but you know how it is when there’s no common language things can get a bit confusing.
This picture is for anyone who’s seen the film “Taken”, don’t always believe Hollywood as we found only friendly people!!!
We wanted to head to Valbone for the night but first we wanted to check out the Fierze to Komani ferry as it was a option for the next days route.
This was the ferry in use before the road was built it, was the fastest way to travel North
We had heard the ferry they were using now was on the small size so we agreed to think about it and weigh up the options that night
We rode up a main tarmac road to Bajram Curri before heading to Valbone on a mix of graded gravel and new tarmac
We stopped for a late lunch on the side of the road with great views.
Then followed the road up the mountain to find somewhere to stay for the night
The first place we stopped at had no room as this was a popular area for trekking and climbing we carried on almost to the end of the road and spotted a sign for a hotel along a gravel track.
This is the great hotel we found
Bikes parked out on the patio
We showered, changed and met at the bar for a drink ,the hotel owner became very excited and called us outside, the sun was setting and was lighting the mountain, a truly amazing sight
This was the coldest we had been all trip so we were really glad of the fire and the extra blankets they brought us.
We had a great meal snuggled next to the fire.
This was todays route
We would have liked to explore Kosovo more as we had only just popped in for the night and heading back to Albania. I’m sure we’ll be back to see more of Kosovo on another trip.
We could have headed to Kasaj where we were going to cross into Albania on a perfectly good tarmac road but where’s the fun it that! So we found an old unpaved road/track that brought us right out by the border crossing.
But we did get feet!
Martin seeing if the were any fish in his boots
We crossed back into Albania with no problems and headed to do a loop in the hills before heading to Fierze to check out the ferry
More signs that we will close to the border again
The track became less used. As it was only a loop we were doing it wasn't a problem to ride the track back to the road and ride down the Fierze.
As we rounded a corner on the track we came across a group of men mining chromium it was a very small mine ( sorry no pictures they weren’t happy about pictures being taken I think Jane may have some video footage) They told us the track ended in about 1k because of a land slide, not sure if this was the truth, but we turned round as they were very insistent that they didn’t want us to carry on but you know how it is when there’s no common language things can get a bit confusing.
This picture is for anyone who’s seen the film “Taken”, don’t always believe Hollywood as we found only friendly people!!!
We wanted to head to Valbone for the night but first we wanted to check out the Fierze to Komani ferry as it was a option for the next days route.
This was the ferry in use before the road was built it, was the fastest way to travel North
We had heard the ferry they were using now was on the small size so we agreed to think about it and weigh up the options that night
We rode up a main tarmac road to Bajram Curri before heading to Valbone on a mix of graded gravel and new tarmac
We stopped for a late lunch on the side of the road with great views.
Then followed the road up the mountain to find somewhere to stay for the night
The first place we stopped at had no room as this was a popular area for trekking and climbing we carried on almost to the end of the road and spotted a sign for a hotel along a gravel track.
This is the great hotel we found
Bikes parked out on the patio
We showered, changed and met at the bar for a drink ,the hotel owner became very excited and called us outside, the sun was setting and was lighting the mountain, a truly amazing sight
This was the coldest we had been all trip so we were really glad of the fire and the extra blankets they brought us.
We had a great meal snuggled next to the fire.
This was todays route
peterc
Registered user
Brill report, might swap our 1200GSA to do a trip like this one day. Looking forward to reading the rest of ypur report.
louisdut
Registered user
Day 8 Valbone to Shkodra (Albania)
After a great breakfast I put on my "Gucci waterproof socks" as my boots were still wet!
It was a sunny start but still very cold
It was time to retrace our route back down to Fierze (where the ferry docked)
But first we wanted to ride to the end of the road which was only about 1 mile up the road
We had decided over dinner the night before not to take the ferry, although we were sure it would be very scenic we had come to ride the trails. This is where we left the main track and headed to the mountains.
It was a good route over the mountain but the track was tricky in places as it looked like it had been damaged by water over the winter so no pictures as it was easier to keep going
The view back to where we had come from this morning you can see the whiter looking mountain in the picture
The track now turned into a good graded gravel track with a lay-by for a lunch stop
On the edge of Shkodra we stopped for a drink at a cafe and a quick check of Nicky's guide book, a phone call form Jane, a kind waiter meeting us on his bike and we were booked into Hotel Tradita G&T
After a long day its great to chill out with a beer or coke!
This turned out to be a lucky find were the made us feel very welcome
The food was also very good
Martin's hard training of drinking the local spirit came to good use tonight as he was challenged to drink an Albanian man's drink
And it was a proper measure
This days route
Now would seem a good time to say that we stayed in some great hotels, enjoyed some lovely food & spirits. We run a kitty while we're away and this always works well, this included the expenses of transported the van to Venice, flights, ferries, hotels, food, fuel (just about everything from door to door)for 18 days riding and it came in at just over £1,500 per person, which I think is a bargain, for the amount of fun we had!
Louis
After a great breakfast I put on my "Gucci waterproof socks" as my boots were still wet!
It was a sunny start but still very cold
It was time to retrace our route back down to Fierze (where the ferry docked)
But first we wanted to ride to the end of the road which was only about 1 mile up the road
We had decided over dinner the night before not to take the ferry, although we were sure it would be very scenic we had come to ride the trails. This is where we left the main track and headed to the mountains.
It was a good route over the mountain but the track was tricky in places as it looked like it had been damaged by water over the winter so no pictures as it was easier to keep going
The view back to where we had come from this morning you can see the whiter looking mountain in the picture
The track now turned into a good graded gravel track with a lay-by for a lunch stop
On the edge of Shkodra we stopped for a drink at a cafe and a quick check of Nicky's guide book, a phone call form Jane, a kind waiter meeting us on his bike and we were booked into Hotel Tradita G&T
After a long day its great to chill out with a beer or coke!
This turned out to be a lucky find were the made us feel very welcome
The food was also very good
Martin's hard training of drinking the local spirit came to good use tonight as he was challenged to drink an Albanian man's drink
And it was a proper measure
This days route
Now would seem a good time to say that we stayed in some great hotels, enjoyed some lovely food & spirits. We run a kitty while we're away and this always works well, this included the expenses of transported the van to Venice, flights, ferries, hotels, food, fuel (just about everything from door to door)for 18 days riding and it came in at just over £1,500 per person, which I think is a bargain, for the amount of fun we had!
Louis
Wow that was a bargain.
Great report,i enjoyed that thanks.
Great report,i enjoyed that thanks.
louisdut
Registered user
Day 9 Shkodra to Shkodra (Albania)
As the hotel was so good we had the option to have a day off the bikes and explore Shkodra or there was a 130 km loop described as " The Albanian Alps, the most beautiful mountain range in Albania and at the same time the most deserted and wildest part of the country" and we would return back to the hotel.
At dinner the night before the hotel owner told us how good the loop was, Nicky & myself were sold so we headed for the loop and Jane & Martin were going to explore Shkodra.
The new & the old
The sun started to warm up
The tarmac ended and the trail looked good
As we were riding along, the bridge in the distance looked a bit scary!
Luckily, the GPS said straight on
Nicky enjoying the view
The bacon is certainly free range!
The trail seemed to get better round every corner
But needed to keep an eye on the track as there were some surprises, just missed this truck.
Between these two photo's the track was demanding, we didn't take many photo's, by the time we got to the river we were a bit hot!
Nicky took a welcome dip
We then met the first bikers we'd seen all day, Mathias & his friend from Austria, who were doing the route in the opposite direction.
As always there was a discussion over the map, sharing information is always great (and chocolate!)
Stunning track to Thethi, as the track was a lot harder than we'd expected and time was getting on ( we should have known this as the guide book had suggested two days) we didn't get chance to explore the village. When we do this again, we'd plan a nights stay at Thethi.
How the adventure riders do it...
How the locals do it (two up on a moped!)
The hotel owner had warned us about road works and road closure between 10:00 & 16:00
The sun was getting lower in the sky as we reach the last stretch of gravel. This was a great loop, we were tired at the end of the day we were happy & contented tired have done it.
Todays route
As the hotel was so good we had the option to have a day off the bikes and explore Shkodra or there was a 130 km loop described as " The Albanian Alps, the most beautiful mountain range in Albania and at the same time the most deserted and wildest part of the country" and we would return back to the hotel.
At dinner the night before the hotel owner told us how good the loop was, Nicky & myself were sold so we headed for the loop and Jane & Martin were going to explore Shkodra.
The new & the old
The sun started to warm up
The tarmac ended and the trail looked good
As we were riding along, the bridge in the distance looked a bit scary!
Luckily, the GPS said straight on
Nicky enjoying the view
The bacon is certainly free range!
The trail seemed to get better round every corner
But needed to keep an eye on the track as there were some surprises, just missed this truck.
Between these two photo's the track was demanding, we didn't take many photo's, by the time we got to the river we were a bit hot!
Nicky took a welcome dip
We then met the first bikers we'd seen all day, Mathias & his friend from Austria, who were doing the route in the opposite direction.
As always there was a discussion over the map, sharing information is always great (and chocolate!)
Stunning track to Thethi, as the track was a lot harder than we'd expected and time was getting on ( we should have known this as the guide book had suggested two days) we didn't get chance to explore the village. When we do this again, we'd plan a nights stay at Thethi.
How the adventure riders do it...
How the locals do it (two up on a moped!)
The hotel owner had warned us about road works and road closure between 10:00 & 16:00
The sun was getting lower in the sky as we reach the last stretch of gravel. This was a great loop, we were tired at the end of the day we were happy & contented tired have done it.
Todays route
Great read,keep it coming
Louis, loving your thread mate, it's given me a good taster, so can't wait to go this year with the advrider crew. I'm struggling though with insurance for Albania, Montenegro, and Bosnia, have you got any tips on gaining third party road insurance please?
I have my bike policies with ebike and they don't seem to offer a green card type add on.
I have my bike policies with ebike and they don't seem to offer a green card type add on.
louisdut
Registered user
All the bikes were great only had a small issue with a damaged fuel pipe to one of the rally raid tanks on Nicky's bike which we soon sorted
Yep struggled with insurance that way on earlier trips, Nicky & myself spent 4 days riding round Montenegro without insurance on our last trip that way, because we tend to cross at minor border crossings theres not always places to buy it and thats not good
This year when my renewal was up before the trip I went with Groupama (using Carole Nash as the broker) as they will supply cover for 99% of the world. This was about £60.00 more for the annual policy + the cost of the green card for non-EU countries which I can't remember the cost but that's means that I had full comprehensive insurance in all the countries we rode in
But I've a letter saying that form 31-10-13 my Groupama policy is to be transferred to Ageas not sure if this will effect the cover they offer in the further ?
My only advice is if your renewal is before you go, is to find a company that offers green cards for that area because I don't know any stand alone companies that offers green card cover without having a annual policy.
Sorry not much help I know
Louis
Bengaz
Registered user
Love this report thx.
How exactly Did you get the van to take your bikes to Venice.
Did you drive yourself or pay someone?
How exactly Did you get the van to take your bikes to Venice.
Did you drive yourself or pay someone?
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