Alternator problem, GS PD

[Valker]

Last year i fitted a new motor works up grade alternator and the police type regulator/rectifier to my bike(r100 GSPD).
Problem I'm having is the red charging light with not go out until the bike is revving over 1500 RMP any one know what could causing this to happen.

 

[SJRoome]

Hi

Was the fault present from the time you fitted the new alternator and regulator, or has it only just happened?

If it has only just happened then you have probably blown a diode. Otherwise either the alternator or regulator are faulty or you didn't install them correctly.

Steve

 

[Valker]

Hi

Was the fault present from the time you fitted the new alternator and regulator, or has it only just happened?

If it has only just happened then you have probably blown a diode. Otherwise either the alternator or regulator are faulty or you didn't install them correctly.

Steve

Steve, if the diode was blown or the alternator was fitted in correctly surely the alternator would not charge the battery, once the red lights gone out the alternator charges, we have tested this with a volt meter. its just that the red light stays on longer then it should do!!!

 

[Flipfly]

What condition are the brushes in?

Apparently they don't help charging when they are worn

 

[Valker]

alternator

What condition are the brushes in?

Apparently they don't help charging when they are worn

The bike as covered approx 300 miles since new alternator and brushes fitted.

 

[Flipfly]

The bike as covered approx 300 miles since new alternator and brushes fitted.

Not that then

 

[DrFarkoff]

change back to the old regulator and see what happens

either that or you have a high resistance in the blue wire thru the casing

 

[Valker]

change back to the old regulator and see what happens

either that or you have a high resistance in the blue wire thru the casing

Already tried that no differances

 

[GEOFFREY DEACON]

How accurate is your revcounter,




Have you ever changed the generator bulb to a different wattage?.

 

[Valker]

pd

How accurate is your revcounter,




Have you ever changed the generator bulb to a different wattage?.

no, I have checked all the wiring and connections today all is fine. some times the light will go off but for most of the time it stays on untill the rev are lifted. Could it be the diode ???

 

[Valker]

pd

How accurate is your revcounter,




Have you ever changed the generator bulb to a different wattage?.

No it's the same bulbs as when I bought the bike. I have checked all the wiring and connections today all is fine. some times the light will go off but for most of the time it stays on untill the rev's are lifted. Could it be the diode ???

 

[(RIP) Proff]

The ignition light is a different wattage to the other instrument lights...
Also mine doesn't go out until around 1500 rpm and starts glowing again at around 900 rpm


The Alternator lamp is rated at 12 volts and 3 watts, part number 07-11-9-978-372.

more info from >>>>

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/lamps.htm

Regarding the substitution of #193, #194, #168, #161, #158 used in the instruments:
These lamps are described officially as style T 3-1/4 and used at the tachometer, speedometer, turn signal indicator, GEN.

158 lamp = 2.80 watts, .20 ampere, rated 500 hours, a.c. (may be rated at 13v and .24 ampere), about the same light output as a
193 and 194
161 lamp = 2.66 watts, .19 ampere, rated 4000 hours, a.c. emergency use only for airheads.
168 lamp = 4.90 watts, .35 ampere, rated 1500 hours, a.c. This is a particularly good sub for the GEN lamp (/6 and later), as its characteristics
ever so slightly enhance the starting of charging.
193 lamp = 4.62 watts, .33 ampere, rated 5000 hours, a.c. (rated at 14 volts too).
194 lamp = 3.78 watts, .27 ampere, rated 1500 hours, a.c.; a bit less light than 168, 1500 hour life..
2825 lamp = This is a 5 watt Euro spec lamp, commonly also found in the U.S. .....12 volt rated, not 14 as above lamps; 0.4 ampere,
and brighter than 168 and 194, and very nice, if pricey, replacement for them. NOT super long life. This lamp develops too much heat,
IN MY ESTIMATION, for anything but the GEN lamp usage.
2821 lamp = 12 volt rated, not 14. 0.25 ampere, light output fair, only a slight bit more than the 194, and not super long life, but longer
than the bright 2825

ANY of these bulbs will work adequately, the #168 and 2825 being a slightly better choice for the GEN lamp, wherein you want charging
at the lowest rpm point where charging begins. Just a WEE tad of help though. You WILL gain more performance by using the latest 2.8
ohm rotor, if your rotor is an earlier version, and use the electronic regulator. For the GEN lamp, one should consider doing the resistor
modification which will help charging slightly, and eliminate a charging problem if the lamp burns out (rare as that is).
See the GEN LAMP Circuit modification on this website. Be cautious about the 2825 in other areas....due to the heat developed.

In general an E- prefix means European standards, which may or may not be better in some instances and is not overly important.

 

[Valker]

The ignition light is a different wattage to the other instrument lights...
Also mine doesn't go out until around 1500 rpm and starts glowing again at around 900 rpm


The Alternator lamp is rated at 12 volts and 3 watts, part number 07-11-9-978-372.

more info from >>>>

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/lamps.htm

Regarding the substitution of #193, #194, #168, #161, #158 used in the instruments:
These lamps are described officially as style T 3-1/4 and used at the tachometer, speedometer, turn signal indicator, GEN.

158 lamp = 2.80 watts, .20 ampere, rated 500 hours, a.c. (may be rated at 13v and .24 ampere), about the same light output as a
193 and 194
161 lamp = 2.66 watts, .19 ampere, rated 4000 hours, a.c. emergency use only for airheads.
168 lamp = 4.90 watts, .35 ampere, rated 1500 hours, a.c. This is a particularly good sub for the GEN lamp (/6 and later), as its characteristics
ever so slightly enhance the starting of charging.
193 lamp = 4.62 watts, .33 ampere, rated 5000 hours, a.c. (rated at 14 volts too).
194 lamp = 3.78 watts, .27 ampere, rated 1500 hours, a.c.; a bit less light than 168, 1500 hour life..
2825 lamp = This is a 5 watt Euro spec lamp, commonly also found in the U.S. .....12 volt rated, not 14 as above lamps; 0.4 ampere,
and brighter than 168 and 194, and very nice, if pricey, replacement for them. NOT super long life. This lamp develops too much heat,
IN MY ESTIMATION, for anything but the GEN lamp usage.
2821 lamp = 12 volt rated, not 14. 0.25 ampere, light output fair, only a slight bit more than the 194, and not super long life, but longer
than the bright 2825

ANY of these bulbs will work adequately, the #168 and 2825 being a slightly better choice for the GEN lamp, wherein you want charging
at the lowest rpm point where charging begins. Just a WEE tad of help though. You WILL gain more performance by using the latest 2.8
ohm rotor, if your rotor is an earlier version, and use the electronic regulator. For the GEN lamp, one should consider doing the resistor
modification which will help charging slightly, and eliminate a charging problem if the lamp burns out (rare as that is).
See the GEN LAMP Circuit modification on this website. Be cautious about the 2825 in other areas....due to the heat developed.

In general an E- prefix means European standards, which may or may not be better in some instances and is not overly important.

Proff, so it's normal that the light stays on and it will not damage my battery.

I just can't understand why this so called uprated alternator as the light staying on longer, when with the std alternator fitted the light went out sooner. R's J

 

[SJRoome]

Hi

The output of the alternator is in three phases. If you lose a diode you only get charging from two phases. The alternator will still charge but will require more revs and will have a lower total output.

Steve