Amount of rear wheel 'spin'?

[Jay12329]

I'm used to chain drive bikes where you spin the rear wheel off the ground and you get a coupe of turns free roll. My GS doesn't give this. It seams quite stiff to turn even with the brake caliper removed.
So my question is how easy should it be to turn the rear wheel?

Ta
J

 

[motobiker]

I'm used to chain drive bikes where you spin the rear wheel off the ground and you get a coupe of turns free roll. My GS doesn't give this. It seams quite stiff to turn even with the brake caliper removed.
So my question is how easy should it be to turn the rear wheel?

Ta
J

you're trying to turn a whole lot more than just the back wheel. don't worry about it. this is what a shaft bike is like. what you're experiencing is completely normal.

As you're so new to the bike.. 2 things you should never do. run the engine in gear on the centre stand - the shaft HATES that.
And - don't allow the bike to sit at idle for too long before you set off. These bikes don't need to warm up. I simply press the start button - into gear and ride off.

 

[MattW]

So my question is how easy should it be to turn the rear wheel?

You'll be lucky to see any 'free spin' - there's a load of drag from the final drive and gearbox.

 

[Jay12329]

Thanks for the quick replies! Just wanted to make sure while i had it apart there wasn't more going on!
ta
J

 

[Fanum]

Not quite on topic but related.....don't worry if the rear turns slowly with engine running and bike in Neutral either....they all do that sir

 

[ahutcheon]

As you're so new to the bike.. 2 things you should never do. run the engine in gear on the centre stand - the shaft HATES that.
And - don't allow the bike to sit at idle for too long before you set off. These bikes don't need to warm up. I simply press the start button - into gear and ride off.

Is it really that bad to turn the shaft with the suspension at full extension? OK, the UJs will be at a fair old angle, but they're not binding and they're not carrying any noticeable drive load. Got to be worse when the bike is airborne...

Can't really see why you'd want to do it, unless to diagnose where a noise was coming from.

It would be a terrible idea to let the bike warm up in gear so that the gearbox and final drive oil were also warmed up, but as you observe you should just get on the thing and ride (but you might not want to thrash it until the oil has warmed*).

* IIRC the handbook advises riding normally until the engine reaches operating temperature. Presumably thereafter one should ride abnormally?

 

[motobiker]

Is it really that bad to turn the shaft with the suspension at full extension? OK, the UJs will be at a fair old angle, but they're not binding and they're not carrying any noticeable drive load. Got to be worse when the bike is airborne...

Can't really see why you'd want to do it, unless to diagnose where a noise was coming from.

It would be a terrible idea to let the bike warm up in gear so that the gearbox and final drive oil were also warmed up, but as you observe you should just get on the thing and ride (but you might not want to thrash it until the oil has warmed*).

* IIRC the handbook advises riding normally until the engine reaches operating temperature. Presumably thereafter one should ride abnormally?

I'm no mechanical genius but those that are all say you should not run the engine in gear on the centre stand. Assuming the rear end was making an odd noise I doubt if you would hear it, as the shaft will make an absolute racket trying to turn in a position it wasn't designed for. (in the air)

The main reason I mentioned not 'warming up' the engine is a. because the bike doesn't need it. (a novel concept for someone new to Boxers) and b. it can over time lead to premature failure of the Hall Sensor. and you're looking at £200+ to get that replaced by a dealer.

 

[david306]

I had this same problem. check your rear brake caliber pin, a couple of quid replaces it along with a good clean of the caliper itself.. makes it like new, and well worth keepin an eye on..
The shaft does produce a lot of drag.. to test this accelerate to 60 on a straight road in say 4th or 5th then see how fast you lose that speed without using your brakes... its serious engine brakin !!!!

Happy tossin !!!!

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

I had this same problem. check your rear brake caliber pin, a couple of quid replaces it along with a good clean of the caliper itself.. makes it like new, and well worth keepin an eye on..
The shaft does produce a lot of drag.. to test this accelerate to 60 on a straight road in say 4th or 5th then see how fast you lose that speed without using your brakes... its serious engine brakin !!!!

Happy tossin !!!!

Must admit, I don't use my brakes a lot on spirited country spins. prefare to bang down though the box and use the engine braking. use the brake light as a signal more than anything else.

Good luck with the new bike Jay.

 

[WhipHubley]

Not quite on topic but related.....don't worry if the rear turns slowly with engine running and bike in Neutral either....they all do that sir

Aha! I'm fairly new to this GS malarkey and did wonder about that..."whoa, clutch problems already!"

So thanks for alleviating my fears

 

[motobiker]

Aha! I'm fairly new to this GS malarkey and did wonder about that..."whoa, clutch problems already!"

So thanks for alleviating my fears

It's best for the bike if you don't do this at all. The only time my bike is allowed to idle on the centrestand is at service time. Apart from then the only time the engine is running is when I'm riding it. You really do need to think differently with these bikes.