Still have the original plug in mine at 148.000 miles and 19 years old. I do change the washer each oil change.Lunatic!
I still have the Original one in my 93,000 mile RT
Sealing washers changed every time Oil done Every 6000 there or thereabouts
I hope that Comes out.Thanks all for your invaluable info,I’ll report back later![]()
Never seen one like that before EeeekThanks all for your invaluable info,I’ll report back later![]()
tap back in the 8 mm hex it will be just fineThanks all for your invaluable info,I’ll report back later![]()
EditI thought it looked more like a torx than a hex,but with limited knowledge I wasn’t sure,
Any ideas wtf it is
Cheers Baza
Because they'd have been called a lunaticI hope that
I hope that Comes out.
Looks like someone may have rounded that off and then tried a torx bit in it to get it out. Why on earth it wasn't replaced is beyond me.

Cheers botus I’ll give that ago and catch you all later,tap back in the 8 mm hex it will be just fine
people have just been using the wrong tool and its made extra marks and slightly damaged the hex - happens all the time - a torx that goes in the hex hole is way too small
Ah yes but if I'd replaced mine every time I changed the oil it would now be up above £100.00 for new sump plugs which I haven't needed. Not forgetting my other bikes with an annual oil change.Because they'd have been called a lunatic
As I said £3. Hardly breaks the bank
It looks like someone has hammered an easy out into that. I would definitely replace it. As long as you use the correct tool and torque the plug will last the life of the bike. If you do need assistance to get it or any other bolt out then these are the things to use, not those long spindly things that snap.Thanks all for your invaluable info,I’ll report back later![]()

That could’ve been where I went wrongIt may have been mentioned, tho I didn't see it.
If the bike doesn't get up to temp (I think 2 bars, but don't hold me to that), then the oil doesn't flow through the cooler. It's stopped until the valve opens when it's warmed up. So the sight glass looks almost empty. Once warmed up, the valve opens, oil flows, sight glass should be back to normal
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I use M16 copper crush washers. I buy them 5 at a time from eBay.That’s a Dowty rubber bonded seal, as used on hydraulic system and compressed air banjo bolts. It doesn’t really belong on a sump plug although it will do the job.
It should be a plain flat alloy crush washer (you can also use an annealed soft copper washer.)
Whenever I bought OE oil filters from Bahnstormer previously there was always a new alloy crush washer sellotaped to the new filter box.
