Anatolian Adventures

[Mongoose]

My son turned 30 this year and as a birthday present, I thought it would be lovely to make some memories with him while I still can. With that in mind, I booked us on a Vintage Rides tour to Turkey. Bikes, fuel and hotels all sorted, just beer to pay for........and I don't drink these days, so I'm a cheap date. I rode with the same company in Rajasthan, India two years ago and their organisation was first class.

Slight delay on the ground at Luton, before easyJet whisked us to Antalya. Man with our names on stood outside the airport and off we set for our hotel, sadly minus the stunning Ukrainian woman who was also being transferred by the same company.

We have a day or so before we meet the other 8 riders, who are all French (VR are based in Lyon). The tour is just a week long and we'll be on 411 Hymmies.

We hired two scooters for the day as the lad hasn't ridden for a while. Great ride out this afternoon......until the Biblical rain spoiled it.

Antalya is one of those places that families book for a week or so in the sun. My advice is don't, it's a tourist hell hole and it's also bloody expensive.

 

[Oldrat]

Brilliant thing to do, I bet you’ll both have memories that’ll more than last you out

 

[Mongoose]

Day one started after an introductory meal last night. The Adana kebab was ok, but not great. Luckily we'd found a really great place for lunch that was full of locals and decent value.

12 of us in total, three couples a guide and five lone riders, including 2 French women who have toured just about everywhere by bike.

We took a road out of the city into the mountains and the views matched anything I've seen in Austria or Bavaria. 25 degrees, sun dappled mountain roads and very little traffic. I lost count after a dozen hairpins. In a rather alarming throwback to my childhood, the roads are ful of Turkish Renault 12 and Fiat Mirafiori copies, the latter of which seems to come only in burgundy with beige plastic upholstery. Classy.

Lunch was chowder starter and a fish one pot dish with bread so fresh it was too hot to handle. The French were staggered by the inclusion of cheese in a fish dish and rather upset that it was too spicy. 180 km was finished off with a coastal ride into Kas and a rather decent dinner. I've spent a huge £3 today.

The Himmie 411 is dividing opinion. It's comfortable enough, but gutless with a gearbox full of false neutrals. Personally, I prefer the Bullet 500, but hey, it's only day 1.

 

[Mongoose]

Day two. Breakfast at 8, on the bike for 9 and away. The coastal roads towards Kalkan was incredibly scenic, with bend after bend and little traffic. We turned north into the mountains and gorges, stopping at an ancient amphitheatre and Lycian ruins, which I have to say were fantastic. The temperature reached sn indicated 35 at one point, but hovered around 27 most of the day.

Away from the tourist hotspots, Turkey is a beautiful country. Riding through small working villages and agricultural areas is a side to the country few tourists will experience. Another cracking lunch and onto Dalyan.

I can't fault the tour so far. The pace could have been a bit quicker, but 3 weeks of biblical rain have loosened road surfaces and catering for mixed abilities in a group, it's difficult to please everyone.








Half the beef went to my new best friend...

 

[Mongoose]

Into day three and a 250km ish ride from Dalyan to Pamukalle, starting with what must surely be the world's shortest ferry crossing. I'd said to my lad on day one " Make sure you concentrate straight after lunch and particularly on the last 50km. Folk get tired, sloppy and accidents happen, so keep some space around you". The hotel wasn't great, so not a great night's sleep. Even more reason to be cautious.

Lo and behold, on a forest fire track on the home stretch, one of the French riders hit a left hand bend to find a load of diesel on the track. She lost the back end and (I suspect) grabbed the front brake as the back end came round. It was a rather spectacular wipe out, fortunately into a ditch filled with moss and loose soil and not into the forested sheer drop on the other side. She escaped with a badly bruised shoulder and the bike needed new handlebars. Fortunately, the following mechanic had a spare set and changed them in minutes. Impressive. I was directly behind, lost the back end, but with luck and no skill, managed to save it.

The day was a great mix of fast A road sweepers and forested tracks, with a great lunch in the middle. Temperature averaged around 25 degrees and there was a visit to sn impressive set of ruins thrown in. It's incredible to think that some of the carved faces have survived almost 1800 years of weather, earthquakes and vandals.

 

[Istanbulian]

Into day three and a 250km ish ride from Dalyan to Pamukalle, starting with what must surely be the world's shortest ferry crossing. I'd said to my lad on day one " Make sure you concentrate straight after lunch and particularly on the last 50km. Folk get tired, sloppy and accidents happen, so keep some space around you". The hotel wasn't great, so not a great night's sleep. Even more reason to be cautious.

Lo and behold, on a forest fire track on the home stretch, one of the French riders hit a left hand bend to find a load of diesel on the track. She lost the back end and (I suspect) grabbed the front brake as the back end came round. It was a rather spectacular wipe out, fortunately into a ditch filled with moss and loose soil and not into the forested sheer drop on the other side. She escaped with a badly bruised shoulder and the bike needed new handlebars. Fortunately, the following mechanic had a spare set and changed them in minutes. Impressive. I was directly behind, lost the back end, but with luck and no skill, managed to save it.

The day was a great mix of fast A road sweepers and forested tracks, with a great lunch in the middle. Temperature averaged around 25 degrees and there was a visit to sn impressive set of ruins thrown in. It's incredible to think that some of the carved faces have survived almost 1800 years of weather, earthquakes and vandals.

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Looks like Aphrodisias to me? South West of Pamukkale.

 

[Mongoose]

Looks like Aphrodisias to me? South West of Pamukkale.

It absolutely is, well spotted. Fascinating site and some incredible craftsmanship to survive almost 2000 years. How many of today’s artisans will be able to say the same?

 

[Mongoose]

Day 4: Pamukalle to Egirdir. Great start to the morning, with a dozen or more hot air balloons taking off near our hotel and soaring overhead, with the French all shouting 'Montgolfier, Montgolfier'!. Another historical site, with a spectacular theatre, a walk down through the limestone scar and onto the bikes for another morning of twists, turns and fun in the sun. Apparently, the rain is biblical at home and Mrs M was unimpressed by my announcement that the temp on the bike dash was showing 32 degrees .

Anatolia has a series of stunning lakes with water the colour of topaz. Incredible to look at and great for a group photo opp. It's the penultimate day on the bikes and today, nobody fell off (The current score is France 3- England 0 though for some reason, they're not keen on the scoring system.

The day finished in a town by the lake which had a thriving market. I do love a good market.









We stopped for a brew in a tiny town somewhere in the hills. Apparently, it's known for the craft of knife making. A visit to an unassuming little shop ended up with the purchase of a kitchen knife set. I'm quite pleased with them and he even laser engraved my name on the blades. £30......and blimey they're sharp.

I know one or two on here just love a mosque or two. Unfortunately, the loud speakers are around 10m from my bedroom window, so whilst the sounds of the call to prayer can be really something else, I'm thinking the Imam isn't going to be popular just before dawn. Anyhow, for you Islamophiles, here's a very impressive 12th century madrassar

 

[GTMorgan]

Some beautiful scenery, those ruins are amazing too!
I've only been to Turkey once, get away from the touristy areas and in to the hills, as you've done/doing.

 

[Istanbulian]

It absolutely is, well spotted. Fascinating site and some incredible craftsmanship to survive almost 2000 years. How many of today’s artisans will be able to say the same?

All the best ancient Greek cities are in present day Turkiye

Some beautiful scenery, those ruins are amazing too!
I've only been to Turkey once, get away from the touristy areas and in to the hills, as you've done/doing.

All the best ancient Greek cities are in Anatolia....

Aphrodisias
Assos
Cavdarhisar (Aizanoi)
Aspendos
Bergama etc etc

I find Ephesus a bit busy but there are plenty of alternatives.

 

[Mongoose]

Of the sites so far, Tlos has been far and away my favourite. The sense of history is tangible and there was no one there apart from our group. The entrance fee was around £3, whereas Pamukalle was £30 and swarmed by Chinese coach parties.