it runs. . I lifted the tank and saw that the connection I crimped had pushed out of the clip. It was touching enough for a spark but a weak one. . I popped the injectors back in just to try fired 1st ime. And idles .. I will epoxy the pin in the plug. . To ensure it won't rattle out. .crisis over.
Thanks for all your help
This I believe is the root of my trouble. . As whilst I have been celebrating. . It gave an all mighty backfire. . And has refused to start ... again.
I will get some epoxy tomorrow.
Those pins usually have a lug to hold it into the plastic part of the connector. If you get a very small, flat screwdriver, you can pry it up enough to catch the lip inside the connector. Don't pry it up too much, obviously, or the bending back and forth may break it off completely.
I carefully opened it to crimp the terminal. . Possibly not carefully enough. It does positively "clip"in but every time I remove the tank (when it refuses to start again ) it seems I can see a bit of the terminal. . The trick is going to be getting enough resin to hold it without it running down too far and making it impossible to use the plug..
Hopefully the two greased drill bits will keep the resin getting into unwanted areas.. Whilst the resin sets up have dismantled my very tired panniers . To give them a facelift a bit of wet and dry the reflectors have come up quite well .
I was called out with work last night so wasn't able to test my plug fix.. I seem to have a reliable spark but the bike refuses to start. . A small cough occasionally is all it manages. . back to head scratching .
Rocker covers off check tappets.
Throttle bodies off . To ensure petrol is being sprayed when cranked.
Shine torch in inlet port the ensure no blockage in inlet.
Remove plugs to verify they are sparking.
Take.of ht leads and clean ends .
Not a splutter.
Even as a last resort used arostart. .. still only managed a bit of a cough. .
I have reached the ends of my knowledge. . Before I start a part swapping exercise I have asked an autotrician to call to carry out a resistance test.. on the coil. .
My instinct tells me it's fuel. . Mainly due to the fact the plugs are bone dry.. but if that was so arostart would have worked. And earlyer in the week fiddling with the afore mentioned plug made it run.. (quite nicely for a moment )
So I am hoping it's a week spark. . .. other than that someone has broken in my garage and altered the timing!
Are you sure you didn't glue the pins in such a way that it's permanently making a bad connection now? It might also be a break in the wire, under the insulation. I'd pull that connector off again and connect the wires directly to the coil. It might be a red herring, but the fact that it started after you messed with that wire makes me think that's where the problem is.
I am not sure off anything anymore I know it looks right. But I do agree with you in an ideal world I would cut the two wires back as far as I could and solder in new... I don't know if I can get the plug though? And I am pretty sure if I try to dismantle the plug again I will break it. (I washed the plug in solvent and abraded internally before applying the epoxy ) I might be able to cobble up an extension just to test. . I would dearly love to remove the coil and inspect the terminals. But it seems I have fitted it incorrectly (under the bracket not on top) I can't get an Allen key in the bolts ..
I will remove it at the weekend when I have more time.
But whilst my coil and leads are 17 yrs old they were working. And I doubt they have failed whilst stored in a "zip lock" bag in a heated garage.. so it's much more likely to be a conection /loom fault.
I am also going to have a look inside the tank. My fuel gauge isn't working (two cans of fresh petrol) I had hoped it would sort itself out when I filled it to the brim but if I open it I will be able to verify that nothing is restricting the float or the fuel pock up.. Despite me blasting it with an airline and putting a vacuum cleaner inside. .
While you've the tank open, check the tubing inside for cracks. I can't remember the symptoms, but the rubber perishes with age. If it was dry while in storage, it may have caused it to fail.
Excellent thanks so much. I will start searching for a supplier.
But I just decided to get a bit scientific and I am getting a consistent voltage reading at the socket . Despite some enthusiastic wiggling
A bit lower than if I put my meter accross the battery but nothing to worry about surely. . Probably not enough to warrant cutting into the loom? ?
I think I best leave well alone until the autotrician has seen it..
Before I removed the fuel pump I marked the position. . But blasting /painting undid my good measures .
Can anyone tell me if there is something obviously wrong in this picture?
I figured that since both sides of my disconnects hold pressure it didn't matter which way around I fitted them. (And I could easily swap around if there was a specific "pipe to pipe" arrangement) . I have been avoiding going back in the tank.. . But I just decided to take the plunge and decided to top speed up the draining process by using the pump.. only one of my hoses is actually pumping. . Is the other a return or is there a problem. . If one is a return what's connection configuration?
Maybe I am finally onto something? (it won't start withe the hoses conected either way put the pump does make a different sound )
Bit late to add but it is always good practice when fitting quick disconnects to a similar application (ie two pipes) to have one coming out of the tank with a female fitting and the other a male so that they cannot be reconnected wrongly