west coast traveller
Registered user
I used self amalgamating tape on mine. Seems to be holding upwell.
another great idea
- Thread starter what have i done
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Robh1664
Registered user
I used self amalgamating tape on my loom when I pulled the knackerd Meta alarm. It's cracking stuff !
yeah, but you need to remove that self amalgamating tape in the future for some reason, from around some electrical wires - good luck with that
what have i done
Registered user
The hidden part of the loom I wrapped with loom tape
For the cables coming from the bars I bought this
Then I saw this
On my computer screen it locked perfect on the bike.... less so. I am not sure how it will hold up to the dirt..but for the time being I am going to use it.
I might have over exaggerated my expert status with regard to bowden cables
I realise now that the cable routing is wrong and quite possibly the orientation of the box???
Anybody able to confirm this?
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For the cables coming from the bars I bought this
Then I saw this
On my computer screen it locked perfect on the bike.... less so. I am not sure how it will hold up to the dirt..but for the time being I am going to use it.
I might have over exaggerated my expert status with regard to bowden cables
I realise now that the cable routing is wrong and quite possibly the orientation of the box???
Anybody able to confirm this?
Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk
yep, your bowden box is wrong.
I dont find it one of the easiest tasks.....
On the underside of the battery tray is a holder that the bowden box slides in to.
Install the battery tray / frame.
On the right hand side, there is access, you may need to hold a rubber pipe out of the way. Push the left side throttle body cable through (and the high speed idle cable) and then slide the box in.
The cable from the twist grip and the right side throttle body cable exit out of the right side.
When you ahve it in place, check and make sure that each of the cables enters and exits the bowden box to the throttle body with nice smooth curves and no kinks.
you can also put the bowden box in to the underside of the battery tray frame and then install it.
I dont know which way is easier.
It is fiddally and a bitch of a task, but do able, have done it a few times.
Whilst we are talking about throttle cables, DONT lube them DONT put any oil or other stuff down them. The PTFE liners will gum up if you do and make them worse.
Because its a bitch of a task and if you think that you need to replace the throttle cables, best to do it now rather than have to pull them again.
If you are going to change them, I would recomened you do all three, dont know about the fast idle, I dont use it where I live
I dont find it one of the easiest tasks.....
On the underside of the battery tray is a holder that the bowden box slides in to.
Install the battery tray / frame.
On the right hand side, there is access, you may need to hold a rubber pipe out of the way. Push the left side throttle body cable through (and the high speed idle cable) and then slide the box in.
The cable from the twist grip and the right side throttle body cable exit out of the right side.
When you ahve it in place, check and make sure that each of the cables enters and exits the bowden box to the throttle body with nice smooth curves and no kinks.
you can also put the bowden box in to the underside of the battery tray frame and then install it.
I dont know which way is easier.
It is fiddally and a bitch of a task, but do able, have done it a few times.
Whilst we are talking about throttle cables, DONT lube them DONT put any oil or other stuff down them. The PTFE liners will gum up if you do and make them worse.
Because its a bitch of a task and if you think that you need to replace the throttle cables, best to do it now rather than have to pull them again.
If you are going to change them, I would recomened you do all three, dont know about the fast idle, I dont use it where I live
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51759&rnd=07012015
IPC page from Max for the bowden box.
item 6 in the picture is the underside of the battery tray frame.
As I scrolled through I saw the note about the mod change.
I didnt read it.
there is a mod and you need to order some new parts for the twist grip end.
It makes it better, less wear and smoother action
easy to do, you just need to order ALL the parts they say
IPC page from Max for the bowden box.
item 6 in the picture is the underside of the battery tray frame.
As I scrolled through I saw the note about the mod change.
I didnt read it.
there is a mod and you need to order some new parts for the twist grip end.
It makes it better, less wear and smoother action
easy to do, you just need to order ALL the parts they say
what have i done
Registered user
As usual you are a font of knowledge...when I was dripping PTFE lube down the cables.... Something in my head kept telling me DONT TO DO IT . I seem to think that I have read that they should be replaced at 50k (miles) too.. I might invest in some new ones, The budget is well and truly blown .. As you say doing it with everything else fitted would be a PITA.. I might leave the fast idle cable; even here in "Old South Wales" it doesn't often get cold enough to need it ... When it does the bike stays in the shed! I can cope with the cold but not the damage the salty roads does to a bike!
what have i done
Registered user
Finally all the remaining bits are in for paint,, I will keep anybody still reading guessing on the colour (I have changed my mind twice since they were collected!) hopefully I will get my rocker covers back this week so I can finally close the engine up against the damp, Then next weekend the project is on hold until the end of January 
.
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thanks, just have done all my own work on my 1150gs and so a it savy on some of the difficulties
when refitting the rocker covers, no oil on the seals and be carefull doing up the stud bolt things.
Many people have snapped them or stripped the threads, they just need to be nipped up.
There is a torque setting (will look it up later) but I just do them up and then a little bit.
If they do weep, remove it, clean the oil off both faces and the seal and then re-install
when refitting the rocker covers, no oil on the seals and be carefull doing up the stud bolt things.
Many people have snapped them or stripped the threads, they just need to be nipped up.
There is a torque setting (will look it up later) but I just do them up and then a little bit.
If they do weep, remove it, clean the oil off both faces and the seal and then re-install
Yeah, budget, but honestly, its going to be well worth it when done
what have i done
Registered user
The bowden cable location is obvious. ..Once I was told
I should really start thinking for myself!
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I should really start thinking for myself! 
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dont stress about it too much
most things are obvious when its been pointed out. The people that make it frustrating are the ones who say something like "well, its common sense isn't it"
Dont let it get you down.
Your job, your project, your knowledge, YOUR learning experience
most things are obvious when its been pointed out. The people that make it frustrating are the ones who say something like "well, its common sense isn't it"
Dont let it get you down.
Your job, your project, your knowledge, YOUR learning experience
what have i done
Registered user
My learning experience continues. .I just love doing things twice! Today I fitted the injector pipes. .they come through the gaps I thought were for throttle cables 
they should have gone on before the wiring loom. What a nightmare job!
I also fitted my brake pipes
I need to source a clamp for the right hand side
I feel the land pipe could have been longer I don't have the length to cross this bracket
I would be happyer being able to route one either side
I picked my rocker covers up and popped them on.
So at least it looks like I have done something
Tomorrow I hope to work out what cables? ?? Go under this clamp
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they should have gone on before the wiring loom. What a nightmare job! 
I also fitted my brake pipes
I picked my rocker covers up and popped them on.
So at least it looks like I have done something
Tomorrow I hope to work out what cables? ?? Go under this clamp
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That "clamp" is the wrong way up. The loom with ABS cables, fuel pump & sender and so on lies on top and cable ties to it.
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what have i done
Registered user
Oh dear I am getting good at making a fool of myself!.. so my clamp is in fact a tray! thanks i will turn it around tomorrow 
No shame there, easily done. The number of times I took things off and put them on again in my build ....
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tadhgocuilleain
Registered user
Two years ago, I stripped my Deauville down the the frame and rebuilt it. I took photos of every nut, bolt, clamp etc I removed. I took about 850 photos in total. It's very obvious which way something goes when you're taking it off, because you're looking at it, but when you go to put it back on again, it's nowhere near as obvious. I had to put the photos on my iPad because I was sick of walking in and out to the PC to look at photos. If I hadn't taken the photos, it would probably still be in boxes now.
Keep up the good work - I'm still enjoying this thread.
Keep up the good work - I'm still enjoying this thread.
what have i done
Registered user
I did take pictures but in hindsight not enough! And foolishly expected the "makeover " only to take a few weeks and surely I would remember how things went together. .. generally I have and my clymer manual is a help it explains in detail how the engine internals go together. . But when you are trying to figure out how to neatly re install a wiring loom. .. you are on your own
The wiring was always the thing I feared, not so much getting it all to work but getting it back on the bike without it looking like it has been done by a carpenter
I have had the battery tray on and off about 5 times this evening but I think I am getting somewhere I am sure some of my routing is wrong so I am holding off actually fully cable tying until I am happy. ... and I don't have any spare plugs
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The wiring was always the thing I feared, not so much getting it all to work but getting it back on the bike without it looking like it has been done by a carpenter
I have had the battery tray on and off about 5 times this evening but I think I am getting somewhere I am sure some of my routing is wrong so I am holding off actually fully cable tying until I am happy. ... and I don't have any spare plugs
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The online versions of the workshop manual have some excellent schematics showing cable layout and routing. I printed them off and spent a happy day with a bag of zip ties sorting it all out...
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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