Any recommendations for a small aux fuse box?

essjay

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Having a gander around the 1100GS to see where to locate the new fuse box and so far the space just under the tank, beside the battery was where it was going.

Until I had a look in where the bike fuses go and I reckon there is lots of room in there to fit a box. The problem is finding one small enough.

I have Eastern Beavers PC-8 (below) which is too wide. The Centech in the photo beside it also looks too wide.

a_pc8-ap2-tops.jpg


The only thing I can find is this (also from Eastern Beaver) but it only takes 3 fuses, so I'd need two of them. Means twice the amount of wires going to the fusebax and an extra relay (although I should be able to double up the wire coming from 1 of the relays).

3-circuit-1.jpg


I also have one of those Fuzeblocks that Nippy carries (although I bought direct from manufacturer) but I would not trust that bit of kit at all. Had it on my last bike but had to take it off. I could hold it in my hand (with the bike ignition off) and tap the top with a screwdriver, and it would make a connection to the live circuit so everything would power on. Maybe a dodgy inbuilt relay?

So anyway, back to topic. Got any recommendations for a smallish fuse box?
 
Fuse boxes

Have a look at vehicle wiring products they have a variety of these items at the right price. You'll have to google it as can't find the catalouge.
Dave GS
 
I've been contemplating the same thing for the past few days. I don't really want to spend £50 on something like the centech panel which I think is massively overpriced.

I'd looked at something like this http://url.ie/31pv but you'd need to wire each one separately to the positive supply. These are very cheap, but not as neat as having a single positive bus, but for the cost would be a reasonable option.

Then I found this http://url.ie/31ps which seems to be what I need at a reasonable cost. 6 fuses, each can take 15A with a total rating of 25A. I don't think I'm likely to have that on at the same time. I'm looking at powering my iphone, which I use as a gps, the autocom and a heated jacket. The jacket should be about 5A and the autocom and iphone can't be much more than an amp each. Even if I put a pair of HID spots on and a heated jacket for my girlfriend, it still shouldn't break 25A. I'd also wire another auxiliary socket in the fairing while I'm at it, but again this wouldn't be a high current drain if it was used. For higher current things like a compressor or such, I have the auxilliary socket by the gear change, and that wouldn't used when on the move. All I'd need to add to this kit is a 30A relay to make the whole panel live when the ignition is switched on and I'm sorted. £15 total.

Unless I can find a cheaper fuse block somewhere, this looks like being the route I'll take.

Justin.
 
That looks good for the price. I the only thing I'd be concerned with is the amount of male spade connectors sticking out of the box. I'd be terrified that one would perhaps make contact with the bikes frame and start a fire.

I'm sure though that with the right precautions (such has heat shrink) this could be avoided.

Your first link - I don't see why you couldn't just run the power into the first spade and then daisy chain the power to the rest of the spades.
 
Missed that :blast

Might it be worth a look at ship / boat suppliers as their kit has similar weather issues as we do? Only problem might be the size of them :(

Yeah that's the thing - size is the No.1 priority if I want to mount it inside the OEM fuse box.

I've requested dimensions for the Stinger one pictured above so it might just do the trick.
 
That looks good for the price. I the only thing I'd be concerned with is the amount of male spade connectors sticking out of the box. I'd be terrified that one would perhaps make contact with the bikes frame and start a fire.

I'm sure though that with the right precautions (such has heat shrink) this could be avoided.

Your first link - I don't see why you couldn't just run the power into the first spade and then daisy chain the power to the rest of the spades.

Yep, thought the same thing and would intend to heatshrink everything carefully, plus if I hid it in the fuse box it should be out of the way of anything metal.

My first thought was to daisychain them like you suggested, cheapest option and easy to do, then saw the second kit and found that given that it includes the master fuse, links, other fuses etc it would be cheaper to buy that and save the hassle. Still not decided which route to go but they both seem about the same in terms of cost and ease of install.

J.
 
Yep, thought the same thing and would intend to heatshrink everything carefully, plus if I hid it in the fuse box it should be out of the way of anything metal.

My first thought was to daisychain them like you suggested, cheapest option and easy to do, then saw the second kit and found that given that it includes the master fuse, links, other fuses etc it would be cheaper to buy that and save the hassle. Still not decided which route to go but they both seem about the same in terms of cost and ease of install.

J.

yeah, the second option taks a bit of the grief out of it alright. Make sure it will fit in the fuse box first. Also don't forget a distribution block for the ground wires.
 
yeah, the second option taks a bit of the grief out of it alright. Make sure it will fit in the fuse box first. Also don't forget a distribution block for the ground wires.

I'd thought of just using the frame as ground, that way you only have to run a single positive wire from the fusebox to wherever you want the power delivered and find a suitable frame bolt to take a ground locally.

I thought this was how most vehicle wiring worked, or am I mistaken in this. Would there be a reason to use a ground block rather than take a local ground?

Cheers,

Justin.
 


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