Auxiliary fuse box

[Ian J Hartley]

You could still stick your wiring modification in the fuse box. The additional fuse bank module is available from BMW and the terminals for it can be sourced.

The fuse Holder consists of two parts. The fuse carrier itself and the locking slider which locates to provide increased security to prevent the terminals from being pushed out.

Description:

Fuse Carrier X10 BMW part No 61131387123
Slider x10 BMw part No 61131387129

The Terminals are:

AMp 3-2030
6.3mm terminals for relay modules cable 1 - 2.5mm

AMP 3-2050
6.3mm terminals for relay modules cable 2.5 - 4mm

I'm sure there are many places that these can be sourced from. here are a couple:

www.polevolt.co.uk
www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk

What all this means is that for a very small finacial outlay you could parallel your wiring modification along side the existing wiring. Routing your wiring in and out of the fuse box protected by individual fuses in the second fuse bank. It makes for a neat and professional installation. There is plenty of spare room in the fuse box to take the additional wiring.

At least with your wiring modification located in the fuse box, you can be safe in the knowledge that you have one place to look for initial trouble shooting and your wiring is protected from the elements.

Hope this information is of use.

 

[MikeO]

In the same way as your battery's positive terminal is insulated

Well, my battery came with an insulated cover for each terminal...

 

[MikeO]

You could still stick your wiring modification in the fuse box. The additional fuse bank module is available from BMW and the terminals for it can be sourced.

The fuse Holder consists of two parts. The fuse carrier itself and the locking slider which locates to provide increased security to prevent the terminals from being pushed out.

Description:

Fuse Carrier X10 BMW part No 61131387123
Slider x10 BMw part No 61131387129

The Terminals are:

AMp 3-2030
6.3mm terminals for relay modules cable 1 - 2.5mm

AMP 3-2050
6.3mm terminals for relay modules cable 2.5 - 4mm

I'm sure there are many places that these can be sourced from. here are a couple:

www.polevolt.co.uk
www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk

What all this means is that for a very small finacial outlay you could parallel your wiring modification along side the existing wiring. Routing your wiring in and out of the fuse box protected by individual fuses in the second fuse bank. It makes for a neat and professional installation. There is plenty of spare room in the fuse box to take the additional wiring.

At least with your wiring modification located in the fuse box, you can be safe in the knowledge that you have one place to look for initial trouble shooting and your wiring is protected from the elements.

Hope this information is of use.

Thanks Ian - interestingly, those part numbers are listed for BMW cars, but not on any bike parts fiche I can find...

Think I'm going to carry on down my present route for now - maybe I'll refit in a couple of years and go this route.

Mike

 

[MikeO]

You're welcome

Thanks - Autostar have a good range of bits for these applications at reasonable prices...

Mike

 

[Fanum]

Well, my battery came with an insulated cover for each terminal...

Ah ok....Most seem to survive more than adequately having bare connections

If I were worried about a connection like the one in your piccy, I'd probably use a bit of split rubber pipe (petrol, water etc) to go over the terminal and to splay out over the base a little, with some vaseline over the terminal and base itself.

I can fully understand why you are concerned Mike, given your recent Spanish conflagration, but don't let it turn you anal about the small but obvious things like this.......The post is 3 times taller than it could be, so trim that off with a dremel, leaving enough thread to fit a couple more connectors on to 'just in case', then cover it with something simple likr a bit of rubber tube or a walking stick cap, bolt it down in place and make sure nothing comes within 10 mill of it when the tank is lowered back, if that's where it is.

You're far more likely to have an electrickery gremlin release the secret smoke fairies from within the wire somewhere deep in the loom, or around the headstock where there is constant movement, than in a well sited aux box like this

PS if you really do want to get anal about it, you could trim down that stupidly tall post, fit course serrated washers beneath the nut and baseplate to make sure you get a good connection, then smear the whole lot with Dielectric grease (silicone based grease, non conductive)

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Those part numbers are listed for BMW cars, but not on any bike parts fiche I can find...

True, They were used on the E36 model cars. which covers the 3 series

The one in my picture is identical to the one on the end of the R1150GS wiring loom. You won't find it listed against the bikes as only the complete loom is available.

Ian

 

[ralphy]

Any ideas on how to properly insulate this connection? I want to avoid a big lump of duct tape...

Mike

I'd suggest a dab of silicone sealant - in fact that's what I'm going to use on the one I've just ordered.

R

 

[MikeO]

Ah ok....Most seem to survive more than adequately having bare connections

If I were worried about a connection like the one in your piccy, I'd probably use a bit of split rubber pipe (petrol, water etc) to go over the terminal and to splay out over the base a little, with some vaseline over the terminal and base itself.

I can fully understand why you are concerned Mike, given your recent Spanish conflagration, but don't let it turn you anal about the small but obvious things like this.......The post is 3 times taller than it could be, so trim that off with a dremel, leaving enough thread to fit a couple more connectors on to 'just in case', then cover it with something simple likr a bit of rubber tube or a walking stick cap, bolt it down in place and make sure nothing comes within 10 mill of it when the tank is lowered back, if that's where it is.

You're far more likely to have an electrickery gremlin release the secret smoke fairies from within the wire somewhere deep in the loom, or around the headstock where there is constant movement, than in a well sited aux box like this

PS if you really do want to get anal about it, you could trim down that stupidly tall post, fit course serrated washers beneath the nut and baseplate to make sure you get a good connection, then smear the whole lot with Dielectric grease (silicone based grease, non conductive)

Well thanks for not sounding in the least bit condescending...

I don't think that ensuring a positive terminal under the seat is correctly insulated is being anal, Bill - just bloody good sense. The point of this job is to tidy up the spare electrical connections and make them safe & secure - if you're going to bodge it, why bother doing it at all?

Mike

 

[Udders]

OK - change of plan.

I've bought one of these and intend to mount it on one of these from Motorworks:

Nice design - mostly...

Nice touch are the LEDs - when a fuse blows, the LED goes out...

Single power input (I will run it through a hefty relay - switched power).

And there's the snag. The input isn't insulated. Wouldn't a better design be to have the lid of the fuse box cover this connection?

Any ideas on how to properly insulate this connection? I want to avoid a big lump of duct tape...

Mike

Tis funny that! I made a plate almost identical to that about 5 years ago to mount my waterproof fuse block on! If I'd have known they made one it would've saved me a lot of blooming work! Hey ho.

 

[warmshed]

And there's the snag. The input isn't insulated. Wouldn't a better design be to have the lid of the fuse box cover this connection?

Any ideas on how to properly insulate this connection? I want to avoid a big lump of duct tape...

Mike

Use one of the Black PVC termiinal covers, 30p each. I would cut down the length of the threaded post too. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/battconns/batttermls.php

 

[Fanum]

Well thanks for not sounding in the least bit condescending...

I don't think that ensuring a positive terminal under the seat is correctly insulated is being anal, Bill - just bloody good sense. The point of this job is to tidy up the spare electrical connections and make them safe & secure - if you're going to bodge it, why bother doing it at all?

Mike

Sorry Mike, I wasn't deliberately being condescending

It just occurred to me that most people genuinely have exposed positive terminals on their batteries, less than an inch away from the tank's belly.

Your terminal on that block is undoubtedly exposed, but trimmed down to a sensible length, even if it's still bare, it's probably less of a risk to you than most people run with on their bikes

PS there's nothing wrong with a 'bodge'....a good 'bodge' is only a cheaper version of an expensive pro solution, and can look and BE every bit as good as a result....I prefer to see them as pennytech solutions

 

[Cook1e]

I'd suggest a dab of silicone sealant - in fact that's what I'm going to use on the one I've just ordered.

R

Wouldn't recommend ordinary bathroom silicone on electrics - it releases acetic acid as it cures, which will corrode the terminals & wiring.

Look for "neutral cure" silicone, e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140921745192

HTH

 

[Hare About]

You could still stick your wiring modification in the fuse box. The additional fuse bank module is available from BMW and the terminals for it can be sourced.
.

I purchased a second-hand fuse block fron James Sherlock last week for £6 after seeing Ian's picture he posted. It saves having to squeeze a another thing into the bike somewhere.

 

[MikeO]

You could still stick your wiring modification in the fuse box. The additional fuse bank module is available from BMW and the terminals for it can be sourced.

The fuse Holder consists of two parts. The fuse carrier itself and the locking slider which locates to provide increased security to prevent the terminals from being pushed out.

Description:

Fuse Carrier X10 BMW part No 61131387123
Slider x10 BMw part No 61131387129

The Terminals are:

AMp 3-2030
6.3mm terminals for relay modules cable 1 - 2.5mm

AMP 3-2050
6.3mm terminals for relay modules cable 2.5 - 4mm

I'm sure there are many places that these can be sourced from. here are a couple:

www.polevolt.co.uk
www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk

What all this means is that for a very small finacial outlay you could parallel your wiring modification along side the existing wiring. Routing your wiring in and out of the fuse box protected by individual fuses in the second fuse bank. It makes for a neat and professional installation. There is plenty of spare room in the fuse box to take the additional wiring.

At least with your wiring modification located in the fuse box, you can be safe in the knowledge that you have one place to look for initial trouble shooting and your wiring is protected from the elements.

Hope this information is of use.

Well -I went into my local BMW car dealership today and ordered the two bits to extend the fuse block - a grand total of £2.40 - they'll even post them to me for free...

Mike

 

[ralphy]

Wouldn't recommend ordinary bathroom silicone on electrics - it releases acetic acid as it cures, which will corrode the terminals & wiring.

Look for "neutral cure" silicone, e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140921745192

HTH

Ah. Thanks for that; I had no idea.

I've got my fuse-block now (same as Mike O's - but a 6-gang one) and currently looking where to place it on my 650Twin - and struggling to find somewhere tbh.

R

 

[ralphy]

Decision made: it's going on top of the battery clamp thingy:

I guess this shouldn't be in the 850/1100/1150 forum though )

R

 

[ralphy]

Now installed.

I'll put up a thread in the 650/700/800 section on how I fitted it, but for reference I used a bit of heat-shrink tube to cover the live connector.

R

 

[Cook1e]

Now installed.

R

Job's a good 'un!

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Unless you have already it done it.

it makes no sense in leaving the fuses in so that your unused exposed terminals are live. Remove the fuses as a safety precaution.

 

[ralphy]

Unless you have already it done it.

it makes no sense in leaving the fuses in so that your unused exposed terminals are live. Remove the fuses as a safety precaution.

I have already done it - but I must admit it was an afterthought!

R