Anyone got a picture of a 2010-2012 R1200GS heated grip removed from the bike?

[mpgscott]

Im wanting to see if anyone by chance has a picture you would have taken of the throttle side heated grip off the bike?

Reason i ask, i see a lot of them that mention various part numbers, when you view the image its like the actual clamp piece is removable from the actual grip frame if that makes sense. So when i search for the part number for my bike its 61317695470 but there are lots on ebay that all look different. They cross to looking the same as those off an F800GT to those from an R9T and so much.

So there are some around £40 as opposed to the £150 its going to cost for the proper one.

I will try and remove and see if i can fix it but at £40 im thinking i might opt for the one off the F800 and try.

So if there is a pic that be great, or if you know does the fitting of the clamp remove from the end of the throttle?

Some are like this:


Then some look like this


Which is it, with the plastic section out the side of the lower image is this removable at red arrow, could i use this and transfer to one that looks the same as the top image?

Thanks
Mark

 

[botus]

three parts and the metal housing

the electric element
the plastic twist grip sleeve
the rubber grip


I forget if the metal bit comes with it (I think so) but you don't need it - it doesn't wear - the issue is on 2007 or earlier bikes, BMW like to try and kill riders blocking the brakes with throttle cable
later bikes got the cable running out the top of the metal bit and riding above the brake lever

I believe you must have the correct metal bit to go with the correct grip sleeve - I have a brand new old spec heated grip doing nothing as I like to slow down, and it became superfluous when I upgraded it to a safe bike


here is the metal bit off a ninety

 

[mpgscott]

three parts and the metal housing

the electric element
the plastic twist grip sleeve
the rubber grip


I forget if the metal bit comes with it (I think so) but you don't need it - it doesn't wear - the issue is on 2007 or earlier bikes, BMW like to try and kill riders blocking the brakes with throttle cable
later bikes got the cable running out the top of the metal bit and riding above the brake lever

I believe you must have the correct metal bit to go with the correct grip sleeve - I have a brand new old spec heated grip doing nothing as I like to slow down, and it became superfluous when I upgraded it to a safe bike


here is the metal bit off a ninety

Would that fit the later twin cam model the one you have?

I did manage to buy like an F800 one brand new for £40 and was toing to give it a try.

Thanks
Mark

 

[botus]

I suspect it won't fit as the cable entry is very different and thus where it all sits moulded to the sleeve vs the metal housing will be x degrees wrong

have you checked youtube for repairs - those with soft solder and some skills peel back the grip and solder the fragile bits that deliberately come adrift

 

[mpgscott]

I suspect it won't fit as the cable entry is very different and thus where it all sits moulded to the sleeve vs the metal housing will be x degrees wrong

have you checked youtube for repairs - those with soft solder and some skills peel back the grip and solder the fragile bits that deliberately come adrift

Yeh, I did see that video but I’m too muckle handed I would cut through it.

I think I’ll bite the bullet and order one from Motorworks.

I’m off over to Ireland for NW200 in couple of weeks and I’ll only have a few hours to change coil packs sort this heated grip and get packed and away.

I’ll take a look at repair when I return.

Cheers
Mark

 

[Montydog]

Having a problem with my TC 2012 model, both grips have stopped working. Battery health is good. As it’s both grips I’m assuming it maybe the switch itself but apparently I have to buy the whole grip assembly inc indicator and grip switch at a ridiculous price


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[botus]

Having a problem with my TC 2012 model, both grips have stopped working. Battery health is good. As it’s both grips I’m assuming it maybe the switch itself but apparently I have to buy the whole grip assembly inc indicator and grip switch at a ridiculous price


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

someone is mistaken - switch gear is a separate part number

they are silly money but you buy just the grip bit R1200GS 2012

 

[rustycloe]

Im wanting to see if anyone by chance has a picture you would have taken of the throttle side heated grip off the bike?

Reason i ask, i see a lot of them that mention various part numbers, when you view the image its like the actual clamp piece is removable from the actual grip frame if that makes sense. So when i search for the part number for my bike its 61317695470 but there are lots on ebay that all look different. They cross to looking the same as those off an F800GT to those from an R9T and so much.

So there are some around £40 as opposed to the £150 its going to cost for the proper one.

I will try and remove and see if i can fix it but at £40 im thinking i might opt for the one off the F800 and try.

So if there is a pic that be great, or if you know does the fitting of the clamp remove from the end of the throttle?

Some are like this:
View attachment 493090

Then some look like this
View attachment 493092

Which is it, with the plastic section out the side of the lower image is this removable at red arrow, could i use this and transfer to one that looks the same as the top image?

서울에서 출장 서비스를 이용할 때 가장 중요한 것은 신뢰와 안전입니다. 많은 분들이 선결제 방식에 부담을 느끼기 때문에, 최근에는 서비스를 받은 후 비용을 지불하는 방식이 주목받고 있습니다. 바로 이러한 이유로 서울후불출장 서비스가 큰 인기를 얻고 있으며, 고객 만족도를 높이는 핵심 요소로 자리 잡고 있습니다. 후불 방식은 서비스 품질에 대한 확신 없이 선불로 비용을 지출해야 하는 불안감을 해소해 줍니다. 이를 통해 고객은 보다 안심하고 원하는 서비스를 경험할 수 있으며, 업체 입장에서도 서비스 품질 향상에 더욱 집중하게 됩니다. 서울에서 출장 서비스를 계획 중이라면, 후불 결제 옵션을 제공하는 신뢰할 수 있는 업체를 선택하는 것이 현명한 방법입니다.

No, that plastic clamp section is not meant to be removed and swapped between versions. Even if different BMW heated grips look similar, the internal throttle tube, heating element, and housing are usually model specific and not interchangeable. The cheaper £40 ones are typically different revisions or incomplete assemblies, not direct equivalents to the £150 OEM part. Best practice is to match the exact part number or confirmed OEM cross-reference rather than mixing parts that only look similar.