Anyone got a R1200R with the low chassis

Get her to sit on a standard bike with 1" thick planks under each foot. If she's happy but a bike and fit some 1" lower suspension units.

But if she puts only one foot down she may well find the standard suspension is fine. I find there is no need to get both feet flat on the floor (on any bike) and I only have to worry about supporting one side of the bike. To be honest, allow anything bigger than a 250 cruiser to lean over too far and you wont save it. So having both feet flat at a junction is really just an illusion of safety.

I find that using only my right leg is actually safer because I have never found a sunken drain or cover in the middle of the road and the camber is in my favour.
 
i had a little mate who had the 1200C, I know its cruiser ish but poss an option, there are some about if you look hard
 
Hi Guys, thanks for your replies, there is no way she will ride if she can only put one foot down! I am tippy toes on my GSA but thats me, been ridding 35yrs... She has only been riding 4 and a bit years and has a Sportster low with both feet flat on the ground (loads of confidence).
I want someone who has purchased from BMW a new R1200R Camhead with the low chassis (she has sat on one with a low seat and that nearly is it). Or I guess a 1200 or 1150R that has been lowered.
Thanks again,
itspilsbury
 
I find that using only my right leg is actually safer because I have never found a sunken drain or cover in the middle of the road and the camber is in my favour.

Safer until you get punted from behind into crossing traffic 'cos you didn't have the rear brake covered:augie
 
Low 1200gs

hello
I have a 1200gs rally which i took to Germany and lowerd 3cm by changeing the dampers,(same as BMW does) the frame of the Bmw lower option is the same as the standard 1200.
Went to Triple Tuning in Nordhorn (wilbers) the job took 2hr from start to finish.
The ESA is not affected by this job, cost 1000euro.
You have to order before hand as they build the dambers to your driving weight and loads you put on your bike.The is also a 6cm option.
fishburger
 
Safer until you get punted from behind into crossing traffic 'cos you didn't have the rear brake covered:augie

So wrong - so CBT!!!!!!

(for all the same reasons you do most of your braking with the front. The rear will skid whereas the front will dig in. Not to mention the fact that your rear wheel will be lifted by the car's bumper leaving no braking. Finally you'd have no chance keeping your foot on the pedal but a fair chance of hanging onto the handlebar. Hold it with the front brake!!! )
 
So wrong - so CBT!!!!!!

(for all the same reasons you do most of your braking with the front. The rear will skid whereas the front will dig in. Not to mention the fact that your rear wheel will be lifted by the car's bumper leaving no braking. Finally you'd have no chance keeping your foot on the pedal but a fair chance of hanging onto the handlebar. Hold it with the front brake!!! )

I agree - I always favour putting my right foot down - partly because I'm only 5' 7'' & ride a standard GSA with a low seat, & partly because I broke my left ankle a couple of years ago, so my right leg is a lot stronger.
Use the front brake at a standstill.
This 'always put the left foot down' nonsense is just RoSPA/AIM dogma - I've dropped bikes a couple of times due to not getting a good footing, but I've never ever been rear ended at a standstill !
 
I agree - I always favour putting my right foot down - partly because I'm only 5' 7'' & ride a standard GSA with a low seat, & partly because I broke my left ankle a couple of years ago, so my right leg is a lot stronger.
Use the front brake at a standstill.
This 'always put the left foot down' nonsense is just RoSPA/AIM dogma - I've dropped bikes a couple of times due to not getting a good footing, but I've never ever been rear ended at a standstill !

Roadcraft is all about NOT being dogmatic, so good practice is to do as you suggest; get the best stable footing. The IAM do NOT insist on any particular "foot down". I doubt that RoSPA do either. Which is not to say that some IAM members don't spout such twaddle.

And if anyone really thinks having their motorcycle brake applied, front or rear, will make any difference if a ton or more of car gives them a gentle nudge, they are seriously deluding themselves................
 
Roadcraft is all about NOT being dogmatic, so good practice is to do as you suggest; get the best stable footing. The IAM do NOT insist on any particular "foot down". I doubt that RoSPA do either. Which is not to say that some IAM members don't spout such twaddle.

And if anyone really thinks having their motorcycle brake applied, front or rear, will make any difference if a ton or more of car gives them a gentle nudge, they are seriously deluding themselves................

I couldn't agree more. It's not what IAM or ROSPA would be spouting (however it may be in Roadcraft, I haven't looked lately).

That's why I specifically said "so CBT"

But whilst you are waiting at the lights, left foot down, I presume the bike is in first gear? Or do you practice what is affectionately known as The Hendon Shuffle?

Btw I am IAM Advanced (car and bike) and very little of what they spout is nonsense and, if it is, we are grown up enough to ignore it.

I am of the opinion that anyone who rides a bike on today's roads and relies on their CBT and basic tests is living unnecessarily dangerously. But it's a free country and each to his own. :bounce1
 
Thanks guys for turning the post into a discussion about which foot to put down!
Still is there anyone out there with a factory lowered R1200R please?
Thanks
itspilsbury
 
:D:D
So wrong - so CBT!!!!!!

(for all the same reasons you do most of your braking with the front. The rear will skid whereas the front will dig in. Not to mention the fact that your rear wheel will be lifted by the car's bumper leaving no braking. Finally you'd have no chance keeping your foot on the pedal but a fair chance of hanging onto the handlebar. Hold it with the front brake!!! )

Sadly I am far too old to have been required to take the CBT. You are incorrect about the front digging in, bear in mind in the scenario we are talking about the bike will suddenly be accelarating away from rest therefore the front will be light and the weight transfer to the rear.

I concur that if you're are given a good shove it is likely you will get shunted forwards whatever but personally I would still prefer to have both brakes covered when practicable. That said I would postulate that the "Hendon shuffle" started before bikes generally had front brake light switches and the primary function was to show the stop light. Like all roadcraft it is a matter of applying your training / skills / experience / intelligence to the situation at the time and planning - acting accordingly, this would include assessing the road surface. Anyone who thinks there are no sunken iron works or potholes to the right has clearly never ridden on Welsh roads!:D:D

P.S. Sorry for highjacking the thread with a deliberate wind up..... (worked obviously)
 
Safer until you get punted from behind into crossing traffic 'cos you didn't have the rear brake covered:augie

What's wrong with having the front brake covered? I always do and the front is more effective than the back. Also if your foot is rammed on the brake and you wobble for some reason its too late by the time you get your foot off the brake and onto the floor. (been there as well)

My method is considered bad form by the Roadcraft-Advanced-ROSPA riders because you cant dab the back brake to finally stop the bike and you (supposedly) cant hold the bike on a hill and pull away with the front. I've however never found it a problem in about 35 years of biking and a few hundred-thousand miles. I also dont get complaints from pillions for clunky starts/stops. The only time I have needed to use the back brake was on a steep hill start in the Alps. Normally its no problem.

I think the risk of dropping a foot into a deeper than expected gutter or low drain cover far outweighs any of the supposed advantages of using the left leg to stop.

Even better would be for bikes to have a cable operated side stand on both sides. Air-craft have retractable undercarriage why not bikes?
 


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