Arctic To Atlantic... A Trans USA Ride...

Racey

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Oh my goodness... Is this a good time to be posting a ride report ?? How on earth am I going to match the standard Scrapdog set ??

Well... I'll give it a go...

To set the scene, 2009 was supposed to be the year of my Round The World ride... I had signed up to ride from London to Vladivostok as part of a group organised by Compass Expeditions. I had hoped that on completion of this ride I'd be able to, somehow, get the bike to West Coast USA so that I could complete my trip without having to either retrace any steps or fly back over what I'd just ridden.

Sadly, the vagaries of the year's topsy turvey ecconomic situation claimed another group of victims when the London to Vladivostok trip I had signed up to was cancelled in March...

Unfortunately for Compass Expeditions several of the riders who had expressed interest, and a few who had paid deposits, didn't commit ultimately... Leaving the only sensible decision for the organisers being cancellation.

So that left me "all revved up - with no place to go" just over 3 months before we were supposed to be setting off !!

Despite the disappointment, I'm a great believer in the adage that "every cloud has a silver lining"... And it wasn't long before that was true in this case.

One thing I had realised from the outset of the Round The World planning was that the "Americas" portion of the trip was inveitably going to have to be a bit of a compromise...

Compass Expeditions had anticipated our arrival into Vladivostok to be roughly mid to late September. Then the bike would have to be shipped or flown to the American West Coast. The best estimates were that no matter which route was chosen to transport the bike, it probably wouldn't be out of customs and ready to ride much before mid October.

And that would have meant I might not have had the best weather to explore many areas of the USA and Canada... One thing would have been highly likely, Alaska would probably have been a no go for a solo biker. As would the Yukon, British Columbia and the passes of The Sierra Nevada Mountains.

My journey, probably, would have turned into a "cross country interstate thrash"...

But with a determination to have a big ride and with time allocated and, most importantly, permission obtained from "SWMBO" I pulled together a plan that resulted in me seing some of the very best of Canada and America's national parks, on a 12,107 mile ride from Anchorage up The Dalton and then to New York.

I did it the only way an Anglo Saxon knows how... In a meandering route that took me through 20 States, 3 Canadian Provinces, 25 National Parks and Monuments and 3,238 tunes on my iPod !!

This became a test for organising and executing a major ride myself. I vowed, "if all goes well - I'll do the London Vladivostok bit in 2011..."

The trip was used to raise funds through sponsorship for Breast Cancer Care who were wonderful to us when my wife was diagnosed in 2005... I paid every single cost of the trip, ensuring 100% of any sponsorship went to the charity. In total I raised £13,262. Thank you to all who contributed...

And another thank you goes to all the other contributors to this site's ride reports - they all inspired me to head off alone and I loved every minute of the ride.

I hope my musings and photos inspire those of you who haven't yet packed your bags and headed off to do so. Don't procrastinate like I did. Whether you want to ride alone or in a group... Just do it...

Here's a snapshot of my route:
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KzYblwkA3x4f8HisJNSPEA?authkey=Gv1sRgCNH4tP6Ol8Gj5QE&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4DpH4DVqNI/AAAAAAAACxs/3Z--iR-EqH0/s800/ScreenShot073.jpg" /></a>

If anyone wants a detailed insight to all the ups and downs of the trip, I did keep a detailed journal on my blogsite: http://arctictoatlanticjournal.blogspot.com but I will distill out a few highlights on here for everyone.

More to follow...
 
Getting Ready...

After the bad news of the London to Vladivostok trip being cancelled I eveluated a few options and finally made my mind up to "go it alone" and set off to explore bits of Alaska, Canada and "The Lower 48".

Now, making a decision on where to go and when was the easy part. Actually getting ready to go was a different ball game. Why is it the days always seem to fly by when there's a deadline looming ??

It was all very well answering the question "when are you off ?" with the response "28th May". But, in reality, the first deadline I had to meet was 6 days before that - when I had to drop the motorcycle off at James Cargo, ready for shipping.

Always a believer in owning up when you need help I enlisted the help of the guys at SBW Motorrad in Hertford. The bike was serviced and attended to. New Heidenau K60 tyres were fitted and the bike at least was ready to roll.

I spent time with Andy in the workshop as he worked on the bike having a crash course on road side repairs. I learned a great deal. Such as the fact it is going to be a lot harder attending to bits and pieces on the side of a wet gravel road in Alaska than it was in his properly equipped and sheltered workshop - complete with bike ramp !

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/q87dmCcnqVaIa1oZCwGdaQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/Sg5JHyV4mBI/AAAAAAAAA-A/ytAce796xlw/s800/P1000108.JPG" /></a>

Ah well. Maybe keeping my fingers crossed for the duration might work.

Another plus of the SBW visit was finding out that one of the other technicians, Michael, had ridden through Alaska. There were plenty of useful tips passed on - the sort of things one would never think of or find out unless you actually spoke with someone with first hand experience...

After everything had been serviced, packed and re packed, D Day arrived. It was time for the adventure to start...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/MkbPV8HpXR7B4vEi_cEObA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SheBX8bj70I/AAAAAAAABAo/8sxY3Z06vXc/s800/P1000109.JPG" /></a>

A quick run round the M25 to Heathrow saw the bike and a reasonably sizeable cheque left with Giles at James Cargo !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/eSyVLYaR2AZPA2U_xqkfFg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SheVqQ2V0RI/AAAAAAAABBI/h66R_sCWUyU/s800/P1000120.JPG" /></a>

Driving back home after leaving the bike I thought to myself that the M25 is hardly renowned as being one of the best biking routes in England !!

But when it is the first 50 miles of an adventure that is finally starting, it ranks right up there !!

Even bumper to bumper traffic took on a different slant ! The trip was already doing me good !!
 
We're Off...

Blimey !! D-Day...

Endurance is a necessary quality of an adventure traveller I had read. 26 hours of travelling to get to Anchorage via Chicago in one go proved the first endorsement of that...

Still, spectacular views on the final run into Anchorage and a good night's sleep sorted that.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/ornGD9JzRkWvXiZ-lkKk0Q?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/Sh_eMXsV77I/AAAAAAAABCI/rm6fCypkBhc/s800/P1000136.JPG" /></a>

A quick call to Keith Hall at Lynden Freight Services at 8:30 the following morning resulted in an agreed rendez-vous at the airport at 9:30.

Only in Alaska could you be told to "meet me inside the international terminal - by the Polar Bear" !

A quick signing of papers and a signature or two and the crate was taken by fork lift and dumped in the middle of a car park outside the compound for me to unpack...

Once the crate was removed I was left with all my wordly posessions in a pile in the middle of a damp car park at Anchorage airport !

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/gcR_mwH2MbXZhoEGX2j1JA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SiB4WzDZd4I/AAAAAAAABC4/nVXnBTV02cM/s800/P1000147.JPG" /></a>

In the following few days I stayed in Anchorage to sort a few things. I got myself a few camping supplies that I couldn't fly with:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/S8NSxiH9clM9wTmZ0TaUCw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SiHupyOoJbI/AAAAAAAABDY/AWTYoprl7VI/s800/P1000183.JPG" /></a>

And had a look around town. There was a Sunday market going on... Would you find a stall at your local market like this ?

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/2b57k0kNrk6caTk-izce2A?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SiM4F9WzIDI/AAAAAAAABGc/ZVgpChFK6XU/s800/P1000202-edited.jpg" /></a>

Mind you, having seen the stall at the market I shouldn't have been surprised to see this when taking a ride around the area. What is it about shooting road signs that the Yanks get off on ? Could it be that they are stationary !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/_KLZoHNt_RdlnKaRtlJzbw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SibcI_rTZsI/AAAAAAAABIs/9ZsOOrYZrUc/s800/P1000214.JPG" /></a>

On one of the rides out of Anchorage to Palmer I spied this little emporium:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/3W6G2TWT_rMuZgWwh4krKA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SiYP7ye4TmI/AAAAAAAABG8/2ansc9ylsb0/s800/P1000246.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/XEZljgioY_Ze6GIP53cQmg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KiqzSOM3I/AAAAAAAAC2c/1B2ZsstP6Gg/s800/P1000245%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/cA4bwtkhH3e3Y4aZUIyiBA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Kiwpx0piI/AAAAAAAAC2g/hZuzRt0amXo/s800/P1000240%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Ron seemed as fascinated in my bike as I was in those in his store and a fascinating 30 minutes was spent chatting with him.

The roads and scenery in and around Anchorage were wonderful...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/oTfOf1Ph-dr_Rp6ceGmbuA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SiclKFDOlLI/AAAAAAAABKw/ueVo2Url_fM/s800/PICT0559.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/9jTkY1PfMGiEj0q8ryt9qw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SickBxQvWLI/AAAAAAAABKo/flsppVnEyMs/s800/P1000300-%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Mind you, some sights weren't quite as spectacular. But having said that - wouldn't you be over the moon if you were a hot dog seller and saw this sort of queue forming ??

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/M93ZaHV1TQSF6Cxv26D7Hg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SihmGbF1U9I/AAAAAAAABMk/bz4ky1xBahs/s800/P1000340.JPG" /></a>

Thereafter, it was time to repack my wordly possesions and get ready to hit the Dalton Highway to Deadhorse...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/dPEMkuE9QF3W1VxFhBgr4g?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SihlXg-2iHI/AAAAAAAABMU/jP4OEGvf4EA/s800/P1000343.JPG" /></a>







 
North Is The New South !!

Having read several ride reports and seen video footage of the Dalton I decided "North is the new South" and went to explore the route to Deadhorse...

First stop up the Parks Highway was Talkeetna. The small town used as the setting for "Northern Exposure".

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/0uEBzag0OnpFD8BZGJ5nXA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KiHxdlhaI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/elHPDL_nVEU/s800/P1000360%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Second stop before Fairbanks was my first National Park of the trip. There were to be 24 more...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/-94XxLBQv3bxhqbaHcgHiQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SitiiNbncTI/AAAAAAAABNs/bBRPMggqQ5o/s800/P1000376.JPG" /></a>

I bought myself an "Annual Pass" for $80 at the visitor centre and over the entirety of the trip saved myself a fortune.

The "Denali Dog House" was a necessary stop after the park:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/Zz3peO8PivCY0qVI357Big?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KjvZowXRI/AAAAAAAAC2k/--RokHu-Dt8/s800/P1000381.JPG" /></a>

As was a diversion into "Skinny Dick's Halfway Inn" !! America's most politically incorrect Bar owner !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/2Ukr4mp4fJW78uz2r5Hflw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KkcIfNNsI/AAAAAAAAC2o/EMTqGwtYudE/s800/P1000385%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/yzthOeyuUZDKJOfCSa_oKQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KkeT-d3FI/AAAAAAAAC2s/SqYgGU_wDiE/s800/P1000389.JPG" /></a>

Next stop Fairbanks... And, thereafter, it was onto the dirt...

More on its way...
 
Sorry about the breach of copyright srace, but this is a cracking shot. :thumb2

P1000300-%20edit.jpg
 
Excellent....:clap

Looking forward to the next instalment..:thumb
 
Thanks For The Comments

Guys

Thanks for the comments to date... Hope I keep the same standard up hereafter !!

Aidan - when you have scenery like that it is hard to take a duff shot... It was a lake / inlet on the road down to Seward from Anchorage... So tranquil and beautiful. I was glad I made the detour...

Simon
 
Into The Wilderness...

Just follow the pipeline...

On the way out of Fairbanks I stopped beside the Alaska Pipeline which was to be a travelling companion on the way North up the Dalton... Mighty impressive...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/kIyncsaqlB-GoZJQ2E6CeA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KpTHVfweI/AAAAAAAAC2w/bIyWapTsjyQ/s800/P1000391.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/bOVZlpHt4d4o77gRWSjOLw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KquvqLyyI/AAAAAAAAC20/jvhVu3Gh-eU/s800/P1000394%20edit.jpg" /></a>

As were the daylight and day length statistics:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/QeMogkF5se95M0NjoyllXw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4D3doLJm8I/AAAAAAAACx8/f62G0OhvnoY/s800/P1000396%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Instead of heading straight up to Livengood and the start of The Dalton I took a side route up The Steese Highway to explore Central and Circle City on The Yukon. It was to give me my first experience of Alaskan dirt highways... But not until after I had stopped at Chatanika - where I was able to explore a fascinating old Gold Dredge - long since abandoned - and an interesting museum at the lodge.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/rAWOGUaf55oy1bl_mxAUAg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Kt74o9teI/AAAAAAAAC24/2lVGhJ5zhvE/s800/P1000418%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Then, I couldn't put it off any longer... Dirt...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/fC1qqew3df74kckgf2Npxg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4EAtrm1QdI/AAAAAAAAC0g/XvGY_06Fnw0/s800/PICT0031%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Great fun... And nowhere near as tricky as all those that had written of their exploits on ADVRider would have you believe. Phew !!

In fact, as I approached Central I felt brave enough to take a narrow path I'd been told about at Chatanika Lodge to a view point at the top of Eagle's Nest. Well worth the "buttock clenching" on the way up and back...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/ubvGoAB3t3DbF5OtJq2ixg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KvGbbPtwI/AAAAAAAAC28/8fZFsOimefA/s800/PICT0694%20edit.jpg" /></a>

At the top I spotted this. Must have been a V Strom rider ?!?

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/PFMc4Ff8iZAQBHs7VdZMQQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KvNFV6ylI/AAAAAAAAC3E/PDaiBzK8eus/s800/P1000443%20edit.jpg" /></a>

There's not much to Central. And therein lies it's charm. This was village store, gas station, bunkhouse and bar:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/jU7gq_Zq1UG7XLLJuRh1Uw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KvyVV9L8I/AAAAAAAAC3M/IOUS9jNh2pA/s800/P1000447%20edit.jpg" /></a>

And I had a great night there. Although the sign on the door as I approached to see about some accommodation was a tad daunting !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/beT6LMSB7n8hPsqKAkJZyg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KwVAEZ9sI/AAAAAAAAC3Q/JFQyA-8C7Os/s800/P1000512%20edit.jpg" /></a>

From Central it was only a short ride to see the mighty Yukon for the first time at Circle City.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/6adgL4lGTFQpD3XwpE_38g?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KwuwYqiNI/AAAAAAAAC3U/wunRDUC6b1E/s800/P1000454%20edit.jpg" /></a>

As the sign said. It was the end of the road and the only thing to do was to turn around and head back to Central. On the way back I stopped to check out a small cemetery. They died so young... Just shows how harsh life can be in these climates...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/FICZG8lnHgaMxtgpDwSM5w?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Kxcq3Gt0I/AAAAAAAAC3Y/d52E9ieuiBk/s800/P1000496%20edit.jpg" /></a>

The local museum was also well worth a visit - detailing aspects of The Gold Rush and the lives of the first residents who stayed on to trap and hunt.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/3ojV7GdjM_tyeHgu7HpuTA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KxigPOhgI/AAAAAAAAC3c/MqmDzpJguBQ/s800/P1000503%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/V53agbsa0-TDfCXmkyqJyw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KxpKC-NZI/AAAAAAAAC3g/3ZcDdp6yq_w/s800/P1000506.JPG" /></a>

Back at "The Central Hilton" I bumped into a local Gold Prospector and Trapper and had a very pleasant ale or 6 chatting about times past and present before heading to my salubrious suite:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/V0LIWnbMy4VlV2OCZEWaeQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4KyvMxKMvI/AAAAAAAAC3k/hzp4wsmlNUU/s800/P1000516%20edit.jpg" /></a>

For I couldn't put it off any longer - The Dalton was next !!

 
The Battle Of Yukon River...

Having had a bit of a warm up on Alaskan dirt it was time to get serious and tackle "The Main Event"... The Dalton...

This section seemed strange to me for a while - although I'd never been to these areas on my previous fishing trips to Alaska with Susie "things" seemed "familiar"... I mused for a bit and put it down to the fact that in planning for this ride I'd done a great deal of research and planning, and scenes and buildings along the way that I encountered had been so comprehensively documented in other reports that I'd read that a feeling of "deja vu" was occuring !! one such place was Hilltop Services where bike and rider attended to their tanks...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/JcAK6kih9CI4jJE59hQUWQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SjKimtyBJEI/AAAAAAAABRo/3hWJcNENwYQ/s800/P1000521.JPG" /></a>

From there I rode what I considered at the time to be the finest road I have ever ridden. The Elliott Highway to Livengood, where the road became The Dalton. Most people think The Dalton runs from Fairbanks to Deadhorse. But in reality Elliott is the "warm up act" and my goodness... What a road it is...

Fast sweepers, breathtaking scenery and rises and falls to keep the adrenalin flowing... I wanted to go back and do it again... The GSA, fully laden, handled it superbly and the Heidenau tyres were incredibly reassuring...

I was so busy enjoying myself I had to "about turn" to get my obligatory "before" shot...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/KAUKez9_YWAz29coKOcZLg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4K6VYiPDwI/AAAAAAAAC3o/HvHR3pSQO-E/s800/P1000526%20edit.jpg" /></a>

That was the last time the bike looked clean as no more than 3 miles up the road, beyond these two signs, came the first set of "road graders & Water trucks"... Ah well... Might as start as we mean to carry on I suppose...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/AREDelyYLC4VWxbGbPCu2w?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4K69NfVA2I/AAAAAAAAC3s/UGsWVY-cpjo/s800/P1000529%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/zWj4BaQdpqa3ajP6X_9beA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4K7C7CXGRI/AAAAAAAAC3w/A4TmKmxU8ew/s800/P1000530%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Sure enough, as a rider heading south had said "it was slippery". But we coped and soon the second vista of the mighty Yukon appeared.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/fu_9ngYSZVsz_Tqd9lrvLA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4K7tlm4rzI/AAAAAAAAC30/LmR_alXFXic/s800/P1000534%20edit.jpg" /></a>

And the mighty bridge:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/NsPqEN7HMHquP6XBugzLFg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4K70EIfVYI/AAAAAAAAC34/wdiR3tSvCro/s800/P1000546.JPG" /></a>

But sadly, the accommodation at Yukon River Crossing was not in the same category !! Don't get me wrong - I didn't expect luxury in the Atco Cabin bunkhouse. But I didn't anticipate having to break out my camping "mossie net" inside !! On checking in my room was full of the little buggers... It was carnage as I went about securing my accommodation before my shower...

I returned pink and scrubbed to find even more. Round two ensued pre dinner... Guess what ? Yup, they'd returned with reinforcements after I'd had a "nosebag"... I gave in:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/gEFinuqu_O1C3yMfZlH6-Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4K7_tutx2I/AAAAAAAAC4A/4oDZOTqXlVo/s800/P1000553%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Others staying overnight were blotchy and scratching at breakfast... Thank heavens I'd been a "Cub Scout" !!
 
Into the Arctic...

I was glad to see the back of The Yukon River Camp... One reason was because today would see me head into the Arctic Circle and secondly I was safer outside in the open from those bloody mosquitoes !!

Mind you, was I really safer ? I'd chatted to a couple of grizzly Gold prospectors over dinner - a father and son - who regularly paddled their kayak down from their cabin upstream to take "mom" out for dinner... It was their weapons that caught my attention and caused me to strike up conversation - they both looked like "Arnie" did in Commando... a veritable 2 man army...

Apparently, such precautions were necessary they said. "Pa" has shot 2 bears already that year - one of which had cornered "ma" as she was hanging out the laundry !! I headed off - eyes peeled...

Conditions from the river to Coldfoot were great and the road was sensational again. Staggering vistas and a sense of wilderness. Although the further North I went the more the clouds gathered...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/GVOkv2RZOmFUkHgcECwp4g?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4LEiJ-OY2I/AAAAAAAAC4E/2u2f8_EBUAU/s800/PICT0036%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/ViciGupORea3EyVCqM5NJA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4D9Ex6fVZI/AAAAAAAACzs/Dr050N_ypkw/s800/PICT0037%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/E7nDsoJF4tvDubs97Pfpwg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4LFNj5GMEI/AAAAAAAAC4M/HLxJV5m6xAM/s800/P1000566%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Then, after counting down the mileposts, I was there:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/nl8Y_jLTmNPdoaaJfcr2gQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4D37H80pcI/AAAAAAAACyE/aBUHEzpw674/s800/P1000585%20edit%202.jpg" /></a>

It was only a small objective achieved, yet it yielded a great sense of satisfaction. Here was an "Office Boy" who'd taken himself outside his comfort zone, who'd ridden his bike into the Arctic. Bloody brilliant feeling. For someone who's days of doing daft things had diminished as middle age crept up on him it was starting to feel exhilarating to be "outside my usual comfort zone"...

Quite whether I'd go back to racing Caterham 7s on my return, I had begun to start to promise myself I wouldn't return to my sedentary lifestyle...

Thereafter, the road to Coldfoot was equally enjoyable. A mix of conditions, but exciting and spectacular all the way.

As an aside, a strange thing happened around the crossing of the Arctic Circle. My Zumo 550 screen switched to "Night Time" although it was late morning and on the correct time zone... Initially I thought it was a fault as the screen went so dark I couldn't read it. Then I worked out what had happened re the switch to "Night Time". I mentioned this to a couple of other riders I spoke to at the sign. They too had experienced the "switch over" and also thought it was a glitch to their unit until we all confirmed the same had happened... Odd...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/s79RSLrX1h5zXaYQz3R2vw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4D9RLzLN3I/AAAAAAAACzw/IZ8ryaDHGLM/s800/PICT0399%20edit.jpg" /></a>

The school boy in me meant I had to take this shot:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/tGkrJOodjZ1HzfJF898XFQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4LHR_tGY7I/AAAAAAAAC4Q/QufMHURfJu4/s800/P1000604%20edit.jpg" /></a>

The run in to Coldfoot yielded some of the most sensational scenery.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/OyVqRrTHKVEVEE6TBzXXvg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4D3_HUfg7I/AAAAAAAACyI/4nSej3xXkMk/s800/P1000606%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/2ZzDe6k3PSdw77cbeCpI1A?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4LIPTXrefI/AAAAAAAAC4c/m5TwiINVBIE/s800/PICT0458%20edit.jpg" /></a>

I arrived into Coldfoot a little too early to get into my bunkhouse, so I rode on a bit further to explore Wiseman

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/MJ3p7i6Vkesfb4u0PI-52Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4LJTdKFqfI/AAAAAAAAC4g/t1tZJbvrfSs/s800/P1000631%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/-YI8a4rMFTH_kPRhjmUdFg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4LNv7EHeoI/AAAAAAAAC4w/fCvaOZrh2ks/s800/P1000636.JPG" /></a>

After returning to Coldfoot the clouds gathered and the most ferocious storm hit the camp. Brilliant. Just what I didn't need for tomorrow's ride over Atigun Pass and up to Deadhorse. Still it might be OK further North... In chatting to truckers and a few bikers who'd come South to Coldfoot I learned I was deluding myself...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/BLpWyTSXkcZtK7V9nz_dTQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4LNyAqFcQI/AAAAAAAAC40/bsee-_oiLTo/s800/P1000640.JPG" /></a>

Biker's told stories of slipping and sliding and experienced truckers said the road had been "nasty... real nasty..!"

Oh joy... Something to look forward to...

I settled down in another luxurious "Junior Suite" to dream...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/zJTyTPwv2cMJqscMEpMTxw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4LN3Qe8bsI/AAAAAAAAC44/myHknYOJ52M/s800/P1000639.JPG" /></a>

My dreams looked something like this:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/IhIhM79nSywq2ej_YrnZgA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4D9dxdbk6I/AAAAAAAACz0/T2XP_PBTfH0/s800/PICT0460%20edit.jpg" /></a>

More to come...

 
Excellent report so far. This is a trip I really want to do!! The names so far are familiar from ICE ROAD TRUCKERS.:D
 
Camera...

Tricky... Thanks for comment...

I used 2 GoPro Hero wides to get the "in motion pics". One mounted atop my lid and another that I moved around the bike...

I had mounting points on both panniers and on the top box to get different angles.

The "static shots" were taken on a DMC LX3 Panasonic. On some shots I used the wide angle adapter that you can mount for some of the landscapes...

Simon
 
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Heidenaus

Lord Vader - The Heidenaus were sensational...

Both on the dirt and dry / wet tarmac...

I was heavily laden and I got 6,000 miles out of my rear. I think I still had another 1,000 or thereabouts in it when I changed it in Missoula.

They were very reassuring and I had great fun in the sweepers on tarmac - and on dirt they were amazing.

With their speed rating I cruised quickly on the better roads with no issues other than a little noise from the front and a bit of squaring off as the back wore.

A great tyre...

Pics of the tyre will follow at 6,000 miles when the report gets into Montana.

Simon
 
Turned Out Nice...

After the previous night's storm and stories of misery on the Coldfoot to Deadhorse stretch from Southbound truckers and bikers, I must admit I opened the curtains the following morning with some trepidation...

Things looked positive. There were flecks of blue in the sky and it was dry - and early... That's one of the wonderful benefits of riding so far North - such long days.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/dJV-HJQGq4nrXjCic1ub9g?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4LiRSumzcI/AAAAAAAAC5E/0mfRk6cL6Mg/s800/PICT0063.JPG" /></a>

Interestingly, after forcing down a supper after the tales of woe I had wandered over to The Coldfoot Ranger station and had spent a pleasant evening talking to a pretty lady Ranger who told me all about "life North of the Arctic Circle during winter". She and her family who live in Wiseman do not head South as some others do and her tales and photos were amazing... Particularly the ones of Alpenglow... It showed that the Winters aren't continuous unending months of complete darkness (although a few weeks are).

She explained that true Alpenglow isn't sunlight striking the tops of the mountains directly - as that since the Sun is below the horizon, there is no direct path for the light to reach the mountain. Instead, light reflects off airborne snow, water, or ice particles low in the atmosphere. It is these circumstance that separates a normal sunrise or sunset from alpenglow. Although the term is often loosely applied to any sunrise or sunset light seen on the mountains, true alpenglow is not direct sunlight and is only observed after sunset or before sunrise.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/6E92Yt0XmK06YHuWwouviQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4ObOSESCVI/AAAAAAAAC5s/4bhJN3Wyyi0/s800/alpenglow.jpg" /></a>

Northbound in glorious conditions I couldn't get over how magnificent the scenery was round every corner. I stopped regularly to do my best to capture it as best I could - and reflected on how lucky I was to be able to break my journey pretty frequently to give myself time to deviate, meet people and stop for photos instead of rushing through as so many have to.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/6LoLBIIbw29gi2X98dj2eQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Lh2maaNoI/AAAAAAAAC48/lhWXRgVuzGI/s800/P1000642%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Onwards and The Brooks Range came into view - and the Atigun Pass. This was magical... I was really here...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/qE-mti4Z8uLaSlr8nH7jXw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OdnT9eabI/AAAAAAAAC50/hgkI83ERgX8/s800/PICT0171.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/AGEQOKM9GjMoiAjjHO9v3Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OeddClfwI/AAAAAAAAC54/R7h9YYxg07g/s800/PICT0186%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Conditions were still looking good - with glimpses of blue - so far so good... maybe God rides a GS ?

The climb was simple and spectacular:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/P6eapdUwKgzoCyefJXPIkg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OfVJppSzI/AAAAAAAAC6A/uG0ywwVGWYw/s800/PICT0196.JPG" /></a>

I paused at the top to admire the view - it was still pleasant, although cold (2C). Little did i know what I'd encounter the other side on the run to Deadhorse...

At the top the panorama is amazing - on a ride like this one starts to run out of superlatives !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/nk-niQuW1Fb44xXU_9X_Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4LiFFpUwDI/AAAAAAAAC5A/QP9IAMaFqoo/s800/P1000660%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Then, as I descended, things started to change... First drizzle... Then rain... Then an absolute deluge !! But it was one of those days when it really didn't know what it wanted to do weather wise... Up high there was always a bit of blue trying to win the battle... While the titanic struggle between dry and wet was played out I slipped and splashed my way through the tundra.

To be honest, the bike handled it brilliantly and I was glad I'd gone for the Heidenaus instead of the usual Battlewings. I found standing and keeping the bike at 40mph worked best - although there were one or two hairy moments I stayed upright and actually quite enjoyed it... In total these conditions and worse in places lasted 80 miles !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/RK1JQ2Fuhoj5ZN0EBjfySw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OgsnmJOLI/AAAAAAAAC6E/dgXGrc5D4ZE/s800/PICT0291.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/llu7zgymrbcrZcLWdMr7mg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Og2jYgC4I/AAAAAAAAC6I/LxLzgv7EwPc/s800/PICT0295%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/IhIhM79nSywq2ej_YrnZgA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4D9dxdbk6I/AAAAAAAACz0/T2XP_PBTfH0/s800/PICT0460%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Thinking I was out of the worst as blue sky appeared, I was overjoyed to encounter a 14 mile section of road grading... Still, as they say, "It's an adventure - not a holiday" !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/ct2pja-M5PQWXVaIqKaiDg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Og7TqMSBI/AAAAAAAAC6Q/EcNuiPLzPAs/s800/PICT0627.JPG" /></a>

Finally things started to improve - ludicrously. it turned into the most sensational day... Although things were still slippery - finally even the road dried...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/NQJr8FSYWbqx_nCrRUAqSQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OhDGdwdAI/AAAAAAAAC6Y/LSjZs5pn_uk/s800/PICT0742.JPG" /></a>

On the run into Deadhorse I encountered, Ptarmigan, Arctic Fox, Musk Ox and a herd of Caribou. Magical...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/gDRV5m8DdgkJaaBb7EcYPQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OkA5eUCyI/AAAAAAAAC6o/21iFL5ROrdg/s800/P1000676%20edit.jpg" /></a>

The bike now looked like a real adventure bike... Although some of you are bound to say it should have been an 1150 to be a real adventure bike !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/B_VXANbE4_SaFThi48ZB0Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Oj3-UfeVI/AAAAAAAAC6g/NgQRHXKeACk/s800/P1000671%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/UV85oNDruhbAAFtjTpuoqA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Oj7phBG1I/AAAAAAAAC6k/EGJxpYEMYGU/s800/P1000672%20edit.jpg" /></a>

I spent a couple of nights in Deadhorse at The Arctic Caribou Inn. Very comfortable.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/H81RSmtlWMyJKw0P8SeACQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OkMabygXI/AAAAAAAAC6s/tKvbUNxJQ6g/s800/P1000704%20edit.jpg" /></a>

I took a tour of the town and the oil fields.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/JvPc7902SIEjFfyWeo2EVg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OkQZIOMwI/AAAAAAAAC6w/oQckBD4Y1jg/s800/P1000711%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/GO4T1zBtwEWyJ0WFbl3J7g?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OketRHFLI/AAAAAAAAC64/eK5wnOrvfYg/s800/P1000723%20edit.jpg" /></a>

And stood on the frozen Arctic Ocean - on June 12th !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/187frFxBtETbTCXehYsz8Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OkaPcFN4I/AAAAAAAAC60/dXDWMBAYmnw/s800/P1000718%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Washed the Calcium Chloride off the bike and got my "I at least got up here" shot.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/t0UBR9eDxK4n-lezQynRRA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OkqdnOICI/AAAAAAAAC68/zpcZOi4b5wQ/s800/P1000728%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Avoided the wildlife just outside my room. Fortunately it was only a grizzly and not a Polar Bear as had been sighted 2 days earlier !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/Iqy_kCJdkWZ3lhzUl5zJ5Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OksmkZ2MI/AAAAAAAAC7A/KCeBUCF_ub4/s800/P1000735%20edit.jpg" /></a>

And got ready for heading South. Now I could say for certain my Arctic to Atlantic ride had started...

 


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