Arctic To Atlantic... A Trans USA Ride...

[Racey]

Phase One Done... What's next..?

The return to Fairbanks was equally breathtaking. Normally I'm not a fan of retracing my steps, but in this instance heading towards The Brooks Range from the North gave a dramatically different ride and sweeping vistas that were as good, if not better than the route up...

To be honest though the day didn't start off brilliantly - I set off in fog - but it soon improved...

I'll rattle through this return leg... But here are a few shots that try to convey the beauty and drama.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/d3TC1rFc1bAHIn8uM3LRiQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OsPTLUjJI/AAAAAAAAC7E/-8fCMOCrLDo/s800/PICT0873%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/GQHSIUylccRGfq1H1fq0fQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OsYPCbsUI/AAAAAAAAC7M/cy_pamRdZRk/s800/P1000754%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/Y-vnyFXIkYzV1Skj9D0-wg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Osc11hOwI/AAAAAAAAC7Q/b-xKMPmQ73U/s800/P1000765%20edit.jpg" /></a>

The pipeline had also elected to accompany me South as well as having been a companion North bound

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/8LRYI0uvQ2QCFl63OknE3w?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Osg5Z8qkI/AAAAAAAAC7U/VWLzBGxMna0/s800/P1000778%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/Au_Fu2juk7fJMM7FsTRf1w?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Oska_AxaI/AAAAAAAAC7Y/2eNZ2x2hfUY/s800/P1000780%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/24hYwmiXwkNe1aV_cUebng?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OsnXmtyjI/AAAAAAAAC7c/n2Tr2UrwR_k/s800/P1000782%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Of course, it wouldn't be The Dalton if things were glorious all the way..! As I approached Coldfoot again it turned sloppy again...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/jzqIqkqwCJLJ_bLdby203w?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OsqTaywGI/AAAAAAAAC7g/IujHCG5GJMI/s800/P1000786%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Having overnighted and rested at Coldfoot the run to Fairbanks was truly gorgeous:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/XGfaJDNUHEHvAHGcCefEog?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4D9zNTmOnI/AAAAAAAACz4/ij0-6xNv9oE/s800/PICT0007%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/XnYx8AnxQPJc0c3-9ML1JQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4OsxJiCF8I/AAAAAAAAC7k/A6DJ7yjCEvs/s800/P1000803%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Needless to say, on this as per all other days, there was a healthy dose of slippery stuff in the road works to keep me "on my toes" literally and actually !! But before long I was able to get the obligatory farewell shot. It had been a sensational ride...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/8Xeqe6z_4nzjtXxsEs8tfA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Os068mn5I/AAAAAAAAC7o/RZiuZzvxJsM/s800/P1000807%20edit.jpg" /></a>

In Fairbanks I found a car wash to get all the corrosive Calcium Chloride off the bike and I went to find myself a bunkhouse and an "Alaskan Amber Ale" or 3 !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/v7f4KpfQQRbLw8Mcz4DJYQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Os8uNg0BI/AAAAAAAAC7s/K1Yoy16T-LM/s800/P1000810%20edit.jpg" /></a>

In the bar that night I jotted my reflections on The Dalton. I'm not sure whether others that have done it would agree ? But these are my unedited scribblings from that evening's journal:

"An astonishing road... To build a 414 mile road through such wild and remote land in 5 months is an amazing feat...

Engineers overcame permafrost, mountain ranges and the relentless flow of the Yukon River in 154 days.

It makes you really appreciate the hardiness of those workers and, indeed, the value of the oil for such an opperation to be commissioned and completed in such a fashion...

Without knowing it, those engineers have created a fabulous road for motorcycle adventurers to ride... It probably is no harder than other roads out there, but the sheer diversity of wilderness and mountain range that one encounters in those 414 miles is simply breathtaking.

Equally, it is a road that changes from benign scenic experience to feisty, troublesome and an extreme test of man and machine from one day to the next...

It is a road that yields wonderful wildlife to the patient, observant and cautious. I saw Grizzly, Carribou, Arctic Fox, Musk Ox, Ptarmigan, Owls, Ground Squirrels, Porcupine and plenty of Rabbits...

It is a test of stamina, ability and machinery...

I feel it is more than just a "badge" to be worn - one shouldn't feel it is just about "getting to Prudhoe"...

It is about finding out about one's self... One's machine and one's appreciation of how comfortable one's cushy life back home is compared to those that drive, live and work along The Dalton...

I feel deeply moved having experienced all that "The Dalton Highway" allowed me to see - of it - and of myself...

I only hope the experiences to come yield as many magical experiences and as much thought provokation. Everyone who has the chance to ride The Dalton should "just do it"...

It will show you things and teach you things you wouldn't believe...

Now... Which way is New York ??"

 

[Racey]

That'll be me then.

I knew it... I knew it !!!

 

[miked]

 

[Old Codger]

Thanks

for that ride report.
Whets the apetite somewhat

Frank

 

[Racey]

The Denali Highway

One piece of advice I'd been given - and that I was determined to heed - was to try an minimise my time on "The Alcan Highway". I came to find out how good this advice was when I was obliged to do a few stretches on it... But more of that later...

From Fairbanks, therefore, I had decided to head back down the Parks Highway to pick up The Denali Highway just outside Cantwell. It had been told it was another spectacular dirt highway. I hoped my advisors had been correct.

Interestingly, as I packed and got ready to head out from my campsite my mind wandered to consider how different two people’s days can be when separated by distance, continents and time… There I was, cramming all my worldly possessions onto the bike ready to ride a remote gravel highway in the wilderness of Alaska, and Susie (SWMBO) was enjoying the Royal Enclosure at the First Day of Royal Ascot with a friend of ours… I would not have swapped !!

On the first portion down The Parks Highway's gorgeous sweepers alongside the river there was a temptation to twist the throttle and go "bonkers".

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/oxQeBlRDixAR5DGJLy3rQg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4O3teV_7SI/AAAAAAAAC74/MuuLzzLnb2M/s800/PICT0011.JPG" /></a>

But I didn't as I wanted to appreciate the views...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/JKWt8CBO-d5oj3QJ7tXLZA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4O342CxM_I/AAAAAAAAC78/nveuaDyRjw8/s800/P1000890%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Just as well !! As round the next bend what did I find ? In the middle of nowhere !! Now - that's bad luck !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/htm10fgzasDuQHpLpC6SsQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4O37h2nroI/AAAAAAAAC8A/3XL_wzlDiGQ/s800/PICT0435.JPG" /></a>

The Denali Highway was good quality and a really enjoyable morning's ride. I'd decided to only head as far as Maclaren River Lodge that day. So I could take it easy to appreciate what was around me. I think the weather Gods countenanced my approach and rewarded me with the most sensational day...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/HY_TtgEFe0F42EUOD6mCuQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4O5O-MTLZI/AAAAAAAAC98/vXqpscrAPsw/s800/P1000895%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/iLSAXy7VgZYzxQ6clNCoeg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4O5UMZVq6I/AAAAAAAAC-A/PpWai114HK0/s800/P1000916%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Another thing that my "pottering" had resulted in was astonishing fuel consumption figures and range. This was taken 20 miles into The Denali Highway after I'd filled up in Cantwell !! Maybe I'm a bit too heavy handed back here - as I have never seen figures like this !! At one point later in the trip I actually saw 499 !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/bWo_o7Wdg0TvWnzvLpkfrA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4O5aSMtd5I/AAAAAAAAC-E/H9uaf52zodk/s800/P1000917.JPG" /></a>

There were one or two sections on the road where the graders had left some soft stuff – but with concentration, attention to where the tricky stuff was looming and some decent tyres there was nothing overly testing.

Or that’s what I thought !! I had just crossed the Susitna river bridge when I saw a lady running down the road. Odd place for a run…

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/9y1cf9wC_EA1cu5hZpHUbQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4O5gZxmFZI/AAAAAAAAC-I/kxtCKGPVXOs/s800/P1000924%20edit.jpg" /></a>

I then saw she was in motorcycle jeans and boots. I slowed… In one rush of words and no breaths she said she and her husband had just run their motorcycle off the road and had ended up down a shallow embankment !! She was headed to find someone with a truck that could tow them back up the bank to the road…

I headed on to find the hapless pilot to see if I could help… Taking it carefully to in case I hit the same dreadful stretch that unseated him, I rounded the most innocuous gentle bend to find him down a ditch on the INSIDE of the corner !! The tyre tracks showed he had just wandered so far to the inside he had ended up on the soft shoulder…

I wondered whether he’d had a blow out… Nope... I guess he just lost concentration or wasn’t looking… His KTM 990 was well and truly stuck. The soft embankment was too steep for the bike to be pushed out. And his road tyres didn’t help… I sneaked a shot when he wasn't looking !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/W9ooi0J8FQTZA_2mQzjo6A?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4O5lCFLK_I/AAAAAAAAC-M/BdPTrdSfFGo/s800/P1000925%20edit.jpg" /></a>

And guess what – this guy admitted this was his second tumble of the day !! On a road I regarded as relatively straightforward !! Not wishing to be judgemental I just got on with helping – but he kept telling me about accidents he had been involved in…

Even when we hooked him to the back of a big camper he wouldn’t take advice and attempted to ride it out astride the bike. Needless to say he toppled off again. They always say things happen in 3s…

Once back on the road I got him to stop messing about with his broken indicator to try and start it, so we could all leave him to sorting himself out. As soon as it fired and I knew he was OK – I was off, as was the camper driver. Glad to be on our way again…

I continued to the lodge where a fantastic afternoon fly fishing for grayling was had. I stopped counting at 25…

While getting ready to depart on the trip who should come down the road, but KTM man. As he crossed the Maclaren River bridge he took his eyes off the road to look up the river one way and then the other… And he wobbled across the road as he did so… Some people never learn..!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/uawV4WB9AVgwlrIR84t3mQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4O5yjPvd4I/AAAAAAAAC-Q/6CtWb8jCcQA/s800/P1000950%20edit.jpg" /></a>

A few beers on the deck of the lodge taking in the magnificent view up the river towards the Maclaren Glacier rounded off the day...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/USIorUgJMJ4ED7pDFI5udQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4O53JHi1fI/AAAAAAAAC-Y/688ThUSZuFE/s800/P1000961%20edit.jpg" /></a>

The Yukon's next...

 

[Racey]

Aurevoir Alaska

I'm not sure if this will interest anyone - but it is more musings from my journal...

I wrote it on the eve of my departure from Alaska into The Yukon:

"Holed up in my cabin here in Tok, listening to the rain it is amazing to think my Alaskan motorcycle adventure is coming to an end tomorrow…

The plan is to ride the Taylor Highway from Tetlin Junction to the Canadian Border. Thereafter, once in the Yukon, I will complete my journey to Dawson City on the Top Of The World Highway… Great evocative names… The Yukon… Top Of The World Highway and Dawson City…

But I am getting ahead of myself and over the border already…

So what have these few weeks in Alaska meant to me. An enormous amount in truth… A lot on a superficial level, but also a great deal on a deeper and more emotional level too…

From the perspective of the traveller I have seen and experienced a great deal. From the standpoint of a motorcyclist I have learned considerably and from a personal perspective it has shown me existing aspects of my character that have stood me in good stead and others that I have developed or altered while on this trip…

I still don’t suffer fools though !!

As a traveller I have appreciated the vastness and beauty of this wonderful wilderness. The diversity of landscapes and wildlife that I have seen in the interior has been incredible to behold. I have learned about the fragility of life and the difficulties endured by people and wildlife in this remote land – yet I have witnessed and heard about the tremendous experiences these people are lucky enough to enjoy as a consequence of being up here…

I have seen with my own eyes beauty that is breathtaking and I have seen how quickly that beauty can disappear to be replaced with harsh difficult climates.

I have met strong characters with grit and determination – yet a simplicity of character that is refreshing – what you see is genuinely what you get up here. But beneath those tough exteriors are warm, resourceful people who will do what they can to help you – for they know that in a heartbeat it could be them needing the assistance.

As a motorcyclist I have learned that I threw myself in at the deep end rather than building up gently !! I loaded my bike to the gunwales and took it up one of the most changeable and potentially demanding stretches of road that I could have found… And coped…

I learned what a bloody good bike the GSA is, particularly if one prepares it correctly. And that doing good quality research is invaluable. As well as being receptive to advice – the Heidenau tyres recommended by Walter Colebatch were one of the greatest assets…

I believe that simple attention to detail is invaluable in bike preparation – the oil cooler guard and head lamp shields that others mocked at home have saved the day from flying rocks on several occasions.

I have also been reassured that a cool head and thinking ahead can get you through most difficulties. The rash and the cavalier that I have met en route have been the ones to encounter difficulties on this trip.

I have also shown myself that I am more capable on dirt than I first thought. Good job too !!

As an individual I have found out that I worry too much… No amount of worrying can change anything that is outside one’s control… Except blood pressure and ulcers..! I should trust myself more and quit fretting…

I have found out that while it is nice to share situations and experiences with someone I have discovered that I quite like my own company… Someone has to I suppose..!

I have also recognised that some things that we believe to be so frightfully important aren’t at all… But that the simple things in life are the most critical… Be it shelter, warmth, friends, attention to detail and so on… Forsake these and ignore life's simple rules and one becomes vulnerable… Ask KTM man…

I have enjoyed everyone of the 3,000 miles that I will have done in Alaska by the time I cross the border at Poker Creek tomorrow.

I have made some good contacts and acquaintances along the way. And I shall be sad to go…

But I also realise that The Yukon will be as special I am sure…

Anyone thinking about visiting Alaska - should do so... But not from the cocktail lounge on a cruise ship..! Get into the interior... Meet the people and explore the landscapes yourself... Then you will be rewarded with the true Alaskan experience... Not one that a coach firm or cruise line lay on for you..."

Dawson City - here I come...

 

[Bem]

Come on hurry up! 30 mins since the last posting and I am desperate to go to the loo!
Brilliant story and pics.

 

[Stewart H]

Excellent stuff, keep it coming

Stewart

 

[franco]

Superb

Awesome pics and write-up....one day, someday....

 

[Racey]

Thanks For The Comments

I'm glad it isn't just my mum reading this !!

Thanks for the comments everyone...

Simon

 

[Racey]

Yukon Bound.

As I said in an earlier entry - The Alcan, while being an iconic name in the world of great roads, actually isn't much of a biking road... It is populated by RVs and trucks - and mile upon mile of dead straight road.

At one point on the ride from Maclaren River to Tok (via Delta Junction - a mistake to have gone this way) I'd made a right turn at Delta Junction to hear the GPS say "turn in 135 miles" !! OK - it is fun for a moment or two to see and experience such things - at one point later in the trip in Kansas in a thunder storm on I-70 it actually said "turn in 283 miles" !! But the novelty for me of such straight roads wears off fast...

This was impressive to see at one point. But only for 10 miles or so... After 130 I had lost interest !! Thank heavens I wasn't following it all the way to its end at Dawson Creek - those signs at Delta Junction said 1,390 miles !!! I was headed off into the hills again to Dawson though - but Dawson City in the Yukon !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/Zi2ppXwm0aBdBx4jb55mOA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4POa4HzatI/AAAAAAAAC-k/-_aE0LHC6D0/s800/PICT0069.JPG" /></a>

Having said that the Delta Junction route, instead of The Tok Cutoff, was a mistake there were some highlights on The Richardson Highway. I scoured the hills with my binos when I stopped, but all I could see was Moose...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/Gm6y2UBJZJaN37ORSkljDQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4POSOAHFAI/AAAAAAAAC-c/bKhpcUJuCng/s800/P1000963%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/ztTcFhFy4_nNQDglxIu-wg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4POUeOlVVI/AAAAAAAAC-g/lXFpMSCZ3sg/s800/P1000965%20edit.jpg" /></a>

At Tetlin Junction I'd done 12 miles on The Alcan from Tok... Enough... The Taylor Highway beckoned... It quickly became my new favourite... Sublime...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/dmaELD4hBL_CFAMe6CqQMw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PTRQ5zSmI/AAAAAAAAC-o/9VIj88uG1kk/s800/PICT0015%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/LfaokO42s3sgtI8PKlOEzw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PTa-ABFzI/AAAAAAAAC-s/FH9Iuj825pU/s800/PICT0055%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Even though the skies were heavy and I could see rain off in the distance it stayed dry and I was rewarded with dramatic views in every direction at every curve…

There was not another soul on the road and as I headed out into the wilderness there was no sense of apprehension… The bike was running well, I was confident of our ability to handle whatever the road threw at us – we just got on with the job and loved every minute of it…

Soon we were back on dirt. And on the most spectacular stretch - things were just getting better and better...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/HlvWK9PwajQ_rrsN0ayD7A?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PUQZYaOfI/AAAAAAAAC-8/Sb2WuVgM45g/s800/PICT0099.JPG" /></a>

I'd set off early to beat the predicted bad weather - so as I pulled into the small settlement of Chicken, I was the only one there. Chicken is a quirky little place - but it does a great breakfast.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/7hwBjmbhlUD8-amPMsbkDQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PVRwgj--I/AAAAAAAAC_I/oXgGjwy3syA/s800/P1000971.JPG" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/C4dUUaXL8M17kCfvbBcH7w?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PV1Pal0WI/AAAAAAAAC_U/iwWCjoNWoHk/s800/P1000980.JPG" /></a>

After Chicken it was more dirt and stunning scenes all the way to the border at Poker Creek...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/a0Cfzw0zmenuL56MUOKevg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PUfQJ2NBI/AAAAAAAAC_A/TNC9qiBTWG4/s800/PICT0118%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Canada beckons... So does my lunch... Back soon...

 

[Deleted account 220427002]

Very Interesting to read certain others should learn a thing or two from this

Any chance later on near the end you'd run through your gear you took and what was the good and bad items and things and you'd have changed if you did it again

 

[Racey]

Very Interesting to read certain others should learn a thing or two from this

Any chance later on near the end you'd run through your gear you took and what was the good and bad items and things and you'd have changed if you did it again

Of course - I'd be delighted to. Happy to share and answer any questions...

Simon

 

[David Lee]

Great report, really enjoying this.

 

[Racey]

On Top Of The World...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/FtROU1r5JTbX5tZXk37qCQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Pjy3SBG1I/AAAAAAAAC_Y/cPZiaeHwBgA/s800/P1000985%20edit.jpg" /></a>

The border crossing couldn't have been simpler. "No I don't have any guns or drugs. Yes, I am not planning on staying in Canada longer than I should. Yes, I agree - it is cold and looking like it is going to pour. Cheerio..."

And I was in. New favourite road !!

The Top of the World Highway. I must admit I was skeptical, just like Neil Peart (Ghost Rider) had been when I heard tales of this road. With it's name I wondered whether I was in danger of mismanaging my expectations... Not a bit of it... It ran the entire ridge line, with sweeping sinuous curves... Concentration had to be high as, with the bike cranked over in the bends there would often be a "frost heave" to negotiate.

It was so good I even contemplated going back to do it again on my day off in Dawson. But as you'll see later - I was in no fit state to do that having fallen into some exceptionally good "bad company" the evening I arrived...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/goE4d7r2TUZZeOB0xIO8rw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Pj8MoU9YI/AAAAAAAAC_c/nYypqHt58gw/s800/P1000992%20edit.jpg" /></a>

I did get wet as I approached Dawson - very wet !! But I hardly noticed. It wasn't just the road that was on a high. The ferry fetched me from the far bank and I'd arrived. Another "Oh my goodness am I really here" moment...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/AVZJGg2yQxnyArj6Wmag0g?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PkGUUSoEI/AAAAAAAAC_g/6O9aE5nBuLs/s800/P1010001%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/-PyH_A4V_oS8o1dnI_g0Aw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PkQODvcPI/AAAAAAAAC_k/VvwHP9L-ss4/s800/P1010007%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Dawson is just like riding into a movie set.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/xuhxPFydSO40jyEoHQiZQg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PkVSTj2mI/AAAAAAAAC_s/LaPBXEN9uXo/s800/P1010010%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/NAM6YlKJpUrmgfM7VfnEJA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PkYB_62zI/AAAAAAAAC_w/iACKsoqy7v8/s800/P1010011%20edit.jpg" /></a>

It sits right on The Yukon River. Which has also been a returning feature of my journey. If you think about it, I have stood beside it on The Dalton, at Central City, in Dawson and would be doing so again at Whitehorse…

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/cO44OkheUq9VX0ASm6JWIw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Po0aLmRtI/AAAAAAAADAQ/bbhev25njqk/s800/P1010055%20edit.jpg" /></a>

If you'll indulge me a bit of factual history; over half of the river lies in Alaska, with most of the other portion lying in and giving its name to the Yukon Territory. The river is 2,300 miles long and empties into the Bering Sea at the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta.

The longest river in Alaska and the Yukon Territory, it was apparently one of the principal means of transportation during the Gold Rush.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/5OIEWOR-cmbKCk-8X1qaWw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/SjwZUh1ZTKI/AAAAAAAABdA/51vlNFNmL_w/s800/yukonmap.gif" /></a>

Paddle-wheel riverboats continued to ply the river until the 1950s, when the Klondike Highway was completed.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/u59yTT7EUWR19TOGGaNB8Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PqS61_yOI/AAAAAAAADAU/uLaqeE_7p0w/s800/P1010057%20edit.jpg" /></a>

History lesson over - let's drink !! Seemed a good idea at the time - but with 24 hours of daylight, how do you know when to quit ? It had to be still early... It was light !!

Over dinner I'd fallen into the clutches of a bloody good bunch of Californian bikers. We ended up joining the Sour Toe Club… Ahem... Membership is granted to those that drink a shot of Yukon Gold complete with the supposedly pickled toe of an old Gold prospector who cut it off after it got frost bite !!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/wAaAKChVKcwHTBrmNXOBPQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PkcLIr2RI/AAAAAAAAC_0/eQrml-0I37s/s800/P1010015%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Cheers

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/QdGvSwYJF5bpXMt_G0gLxA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PkhYhBQmI/AAAAAAAAC_4/soO0LUvv2Cs/s800/P1010038%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/HR5NKm38S-3xC66SpPzBQg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PkmnioazI/AAAAAAAAC_8/LfhNEjcf3WQ/s800/P1010039%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Turned out Bob, one of my drinking companions, was a whiz on the piano and a very late and drunken night of music and merriment was had… As I said, how can you know it is so late when it doesn't get dark ? I'll confess to falling into bed after a pickled phone call to Susie stating the old drinker's " I lurve yoo....." !! That's when I found out how late it was... "Do you know how late it is over there ?"... "Nope... Hic..." !!!

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/AJIHpy95Ki6fUErw87q4Ow?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Pks2sEDuI/AAAAAAAADAA/54vhv7-7UVM/s800/P1010043%20edit.jpg" /></a>

The following day was a slow, quiet sort of day !!

 

[Racey]

The Last Of The Wilderness...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/9sN9pKiDSpdc2zBsqyzp3Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PkxLODhNI/AAAAAAAADAM/yrbgajbU1ew/s800/P1010085%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Just outside Dawson is a magical place - it is a hill over looking the town called "The Dome". If you are ever in Dawson and you don't take the time to get up there - you're maaad !!

Having been no good for anything the day after waving the British Flag in the drinking games single handedly, I was rested and up and off early - before 6:00am - to see the views from The Dome in early light... Need I say anything ?

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/5I9qpUAFDPrqVwvzHejgxA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4PkuffVD1I/AAAAAAAADAE/Waw4WGdXIpE/s800/P1010071%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/pIAMd_vk_I1ZRoZK4DI21Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4Pkv4i8KpI/AAAAAAAADAI/f4Uh4X8p7_Q/s800/P1010079%20edit.jpg" /></a>

I could have stayed for hours. But didn't... I had The Klondike Highway to Whitehorse to tackle.

I hope this doesn't bore you all, but in the spirit of being candid I had my first "bad day" as I left Dawson and The Dome... I ended up giving myself a talking to ! And Susie did the same (sympathetically of course).

But given I’d had a pleasant day off and a great start to the day, I was very surprised that I climbed off the bike in Whitehorse somewhat fed up with things…

Having thought back over the day, I believe two or three things conspired to take the shine off the day ?

Firstly, despite having had a day off, I was tired… My early night had started well, but I was woken several times during the night and then I was anxious not to sleep through my alarm as I wanted an early start… All in all it was a disturbed and poor night’s sleep.

Secondly, I got the clothing options wrong. I always believe in layering but I misjudged the day and once underway I didn’t feel like stopping as I thought the sun would warm things through at some point – but it didn’t…

The strange thing was that I have ridden on colder days with the same layers and not had a problem. Yes I feel cool when I wear the things I did that day – but I prefer to ride that way… But strangely I got chilled right through.

Additionally, after the scenic start, the road was not the most exciting. Don’t get me wrong, it was pretty and the weather was clear and bright – but it went on, and on, and on… And started to become a chore... The good old Alcan was joined after the Klondike concluded... Told you I had a "hex" on it...

Finally, as I rolled into Whitehorse, I stopped to gas up so as to have a swift getaway the following morning and when I switched the ignition back on my Garmin GPS had failed !! And no amount of playing with it – plugging it into my laptop or fiddling with it brought it back to life…

So, when I got off the bike I must confess the rational head said all things were surmountable and they weren’t really big issues… But the emotional head was fed up, felt the day was a bit of a grind and didn’t really want to revert to relying on old map technology…

And didn't want to be in the middle of nowhere miles from home...

So I booked into a decent, warm hotel instead of camping to cheer myself up. And I phoned Susie… That always helps…

Unfortunately I was faced with another cold, relentless day on the Alaska Highway the following day. From time to time the route passed through picturesque settings and crossed numerous streams and rivers that I would have loved to have explored with my salmon rod. However, the weather and overall conditions conspired to, again, leave it in the category of “days I am glad have come to a close” again rather than the “days I wish wouldn’t end” !!

I feel a bit bad sounding negative about some of these roads and days, but when the clouds darken and shroud the views and your visor streams with rain, there isn't a great deal to get excited about… Different day, different reaction I am sure… A few bends would have helped too !!

On a lighter note, one incident that was unusual on this stretch was almost being hit by a Golden Eagle.

If you can envisage this, I was travelling a straight piece of 2 lane road (fancy that - on The Alcan) and could see an odd shape on the opposite side. As I got to about 50 metres from it, it turned and I could see it was a big bird of prey. A Golden Eagle. At about 25 metres from it, it took off and flew across my side of the road, climbing to about 10 metres off the ground. It was at this point it dropped the rabbit that had been in its talons. It was about 12 metres off the ground and over my hard shoulder and about 10 metres ahead of me.

The bunny dropped straight in front of me, and although I had slowed to watch all this, I was still moving. The eagle started to descend to its lunch and I almost had an eagle hat !! I dodged my head to the right and ducked and we missed each other !! Just !!

Wonder whether he's still recounting tales about it too ??

Forcing myself to buck up and stop wallowing I made myself re enter traveller / interested tourist mode. I'd slipped into that "let's hunker down and just get this over with" mindset. And I had to get over it...

Two things helped... Firstly, as I say I found things to go and explore to break the monotony of The Alcan. Like the sign post forest at Watson Lake

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/lCHdOAbdfwKp4Lw0eqiZYQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4P0M34XSNI/AAAAAAAADAY/PCshth-iKHM/s800/P1010105%20edit.jpg" /></a>

And finding a way off the boring Alcan. Thank heavens for the Stewart Cassiar Highway. As soon as I turned onto this twisting, rising and falling road I felt my spirits lift. This wasn't a chore - it was a pleasure again. Digging my heated jacket out helped too. Having not needed it North of The Arctic Circle in Alaska I had forgotten I had it until HQ reminded me...

A final cameo knocked sense into me after i turned onto The Cassiar. As I was wrestling with a few of my grumbles that seemed so weighty, out of the gloom towards me came two figures. Moving slowly on a long climb were two wet, bedraggled cyclists… Burdened by panniers and trailers. And there was me, listening to my tunes, steaming gently in my heated jacket having had to only expend energy to get the bike off the centre stand that morning…

As we passed, they gave a cheery wave – I waved back and felt ashamed that I had been bemoaning things… And was the last time I felt sorry for myself the entire trip. Life was back in perspective and I rode on, in the rain, but head high and happy again...

Despite the overcast conditions The Cassiar was a welcome and beautiful contrast to The Alcan. I bet it would have been sensational on a clear day.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/JFu0OuCPZr5k2Yj_Q_N5yw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4P3FXdBXaI/AAAAAAAADAc/gf2mskXeTqs/s800/P1010140%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/ao6ud9-Y1jdlfIAqGOuXqw?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4P3Jxk1ttI/AAAAAAAADAg/O6H00qy71Fc/s800/P1010142%20edit.jpg" /></a>

Through Dease Lake and onwards until the turn off to Stewart and Hyder it rated an 8 out of 10. Then, on the Hyder road things just went crazy in terms of scenery.

This is the bear Glacier:

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/a21k0rSIu-hQylDRiHTWNg?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4P3YEJDDOI/AAAAAAAADAk/cbS6lUfeZmU/s800/P1010164%20edit.jpg" /></a>

And this is the sprawling urban metropolis of Hyder. Interestingly, just back into Alaska.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/wB_pNUPAKHeUU_4939b76Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4P3oreKikI/AAAAAAAADA4/llv2JoCRFOo/s800/P1010182%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/y2_RG3cufuHOdBgFwK3aZQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4P3aBErMrI/AAAAAAAADAs/y8UZeU9OW_M/s800/P1010173%20edit.jpg" /></a>

I spent the night at The Sealaska Inn. Very comfortable and welcoming. With an owner with a great sense of humour...

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/viV1_J96ji0v_V50YrVB-w?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4P3d9i1FzI/AAAAAAAADAw/0gn6ccABwuo/s800/P1010175%20edit.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/HuxEBLZVQwHtCNE4pR93AA?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4P3q2cMfqI/AAAAAAAADA8/zc3YFilT5bI/s800/P1010190.JPG" /></a>

The following morning, refreshed I set off towards Smithers and thence Prince George. First thing I got a final photo of the valley Hyder and Stewart inhabit. And then we were off, the bike and I revelled in the twists, turns and empty roads.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/JQ6s8JazxmK-B78mUJtAog?authkey=Gv1sRgCJeZ3om20ajSAw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_tyu_mgErIOA/S4P3vyPqgCI/AAAAAAAADBA/k6eI4y2dVGM/s800/P1010196%20edit.jpg" /></a>

20 miles or so later I realised while this was fun I was passing some beautiful scenery at warp factor "too quick". So we switched back to tourists. Just as well as 3 corners later we swung through a bend to come face to arse with a Grizzly !! A bloody big one – slap bang in the middle of my lane – 30 metres ahead…

The anchor was thrown overboard and we came to a halt. Now face to arse and face… He was looking over his shoulder. The bike growled and the bear started to amble off. Along the highway away from us. Do bears trot ? Because that’s the sort of speed this big old boy was doing…

We followed… At a distance… And followed and followed. This crazy bear could have turned left or right at any point and plunged into the undergrowth. But no – we ambled on for about half a mile.

From time to time he paused and looked back at us. We were conscious of not getting so close as to cause him to get angry. But we wanted the picture. But on we went…

Finally a big 4x4 came over the horizon. Now what ? We stopped as we didn’t want him to feel trapped. All he had to do was go right or left – and finally he did. We must have trailed him for ¾ mile…

But as he kept going we never got the camera out… hey ho – we pressed “save” in the mind’s eye.

Eventually, after pottering along the remainder of The Cassiar we hit the Yellowhead Highway (unfortunate name – made me think of a spotty teenager) and boy did the traffic and attitude of them change. Why is that as we return to so called civilisation the people become less civilised ??!!??

Whereas we had been the fastest thing on the road at 60mph all of a sudden we had tailgaters all around us… These guys had no idea how to drive – but they drove fast. And they had a bad attitude. At road works a coach was slow as I accelerated away – so in a flash we nipped past and got on our way.

10 miles or so up the road we hit another set and had to stop. As I was sat there waiting, a chap came puffing up the road from behind us. Turns out it was the coach driver who didn’t like being overtaken !!

I professed ignorance and sat on the bike listening to my tunes calmly – I told him I couldn’t hear him as I was listening to music !! That didn’t improve his mood !!

He couldn’t articulate any sort of point so I told him to go back to his bus as getting this worked up wasn’t good for a man of his age..! That wasn’t a good move either – but I was having fun…

I kept telling him I couldn’t hear him and he got redder and redder and shook more !! What fun…

It was when he started finger pointing and using foul language that I decided enough was enough. I unclipped the intercom lead – put my chin bar up and told him – “think about this. I have body armour on, a full face crash helmet as well. It will take me 15 seconds to get off this bike from putting the side stand down – if you are still here and not in your bus when I am off - the odds are stacked against me being the one that is going to be hurt !”

The last I saw was him hot footing it to his bus !!

We carried on to Smithers. The landscape changed – with farmland starting to appear. No longer were we in the wilderness. I missed it. The change had been abrupt.

To be continued...

 

[pinkytiff]

luvly jubly!

 

[Mr K]

Splendid journey - Your Mam has good taste.

 

[Gundog]

Fantastic

 

[Drog]

Good stuff!!

Keep them fingers going